This route begins on a jug near the groin at the far end of the first section of the Playa Acapulquito boulders. It begins with a 15-foot traverse to the left, your hands working across a long series of good holds on a seam of hardened, stained rock relatively low on the wall. As the entire base of this climb is recessed, you'll have to hunt around creatively for footholdsand throw a few heel hooks when working past a deep cave section. Turn upwards once you spot the distinct V above your head. Once you get up on the wall, be careful not to yank too hard on any jugs, as the rock becomes a little fragile near the top. Go for the slopers instead.
Location
You can't climb this at high tide. Walking from Playa Acapulquito, you'll see a set of man-made stairs chopped into the bluffs. Step around the first outcropping of rock (which offers some decent grips for beginner climbers and folks who want to warm up a bit before they go big) and you'll see the first big section of the bluffs, which I call Crab Rock. (There was a crab hiding on the rock the first day I stopped by.) Look for the beginning of the route tucked into the groin at the far right of the bluff.
When you are dropped off on the east side of Lovers beach by your taxi, walk up the beach and through the little pass to the south side of the beach and it will be right in front of you. It's a big, granite boulder smack dab in the middle of the beach. The route is on the north side of the boulder, facing away from the beach. Start is with both hands in the big pocket. To the right of the chimney.
On the Pacific side of Lovers Beach where you go through the pass. On the north side, away from the water. Look for the spire, climb on the south face/top ridge. Beware of slipping, the rock is shitty and crumbling. Lots of slopers.
