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Routes in The Jungle Wall

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Showing all 27 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.12a
5.12a Yankee Clipper
1 5.8
2 5.8
3 5.10b
4 5.8
5 5.9
6 5.10b
7 5.9
8 5.9
9 Class 3
10 5.10b
11 5.9
12 5.9
13 5.8
14 5.10b
15 5.12a

The summit register is at the end of pitch 13, most people skip the last two pitches, and, especially, the last pitch. Bring a 70m rope and 24 draws if linking pitches. Fixed draws on P7 for rappelling the traversing pitch.

FA: Magic Ed, Tami & Ismael Garza

Sport 460m, 15, 12
5.11d
5.11d Canadian Controversy
1 5.10b
2 5.9
3 5.11d
4 5.9
5 5.10c

This route is approached by climbing the first 3 pitches of "Jungle Mountaineering" then following the 3rd class trail leftwards up through the garden to the wall. Left most route. This is a new route. It is awesome and mostly clean, except for the last pitch which has a crack full of spikey plants, maybe bring scisors or gardening gloves to clean this nice pitch.

Sport 5
5.11c
5.11c Warifikis

Start as per "Las Chimuelas", but after 3rd bolt follow bolt-line straight up to the left side of the roof.

Sport 35m
5.11b
The Cat House
5.11b Black Catillac

FA: Dane Bass

Sport 30m, 12
5.10d
The Cat House
5.10d Pussy Galore

FA: Matt Grecco

Sport 30m, 9
5.10d Black Cat Bone
1 5.9
2 5.10b
3 5.6
4 Class 3
5 5.9
6 5.10d
7 5.10b
8 5.10b
9 5.9

Starts just left of the tree climbing close to the aqueduct. Climbs the black streak through the large roof right of "Space Boyz".

  1. 5.9 20m, 4 bolts. Climb easy slab to a high bolt, with maybe one 5.9 move.

  2. 5.10b 25m, 9 bolts. Solid at the grade, with lots of good climbing.

  3. 5.6 15m, 3 bolts. A bit run-out, but short.

  4. 3rd class. Follow the fixed rope.

  5. 5.9 37m, 9 bolts. Climb easy ramp to high first bolt, then up broken and hollow flakes to fine crimping up a black streak.

  6. 5.10d 16 bolt. Face to a big roof.

  7. 5.10b

  8. 5.10b

  9. 5.9

FA: Magic Ed & Dane Bass

Sport 270m, 9, 14
5.10d Space Boyz
1 5.8
2 5.9
3 5.9
4 5.9
5 5.10a
6 5.10d
7 5.10c
8 5.9
9 5.10a
10 5.9
11 5.9

This Potrero classic was bolted entirely on the weekends. Starts just north of the pavilion. Loose rock. Helmet recommended. Please be careful of the partying Mexicans below. This route has been climbed in 2 1/2 hours, car to car. Take 20 draws if you combine pitches, works well for 1&2, 3&4 and on top. You have to rap from the dedicated rap station below the bulge (belay station 3 after pitch 4) if you have a 60m rope.

FA: Curtis Mai & Todd McCray, 1994

Sport 300m, 11
5.10d Voodoo Trance

This route is approached by climbing the first 3 pitches of "Jungle Mountaineering" then following the 3rd class trail leftwards up through the garden to the wall.

Pitch 4 has a 5.11b variation -- go straight up through the overhanging dihedral for the 11b, or up a ramp before re-joining the dihedral.

Sport 180m, 6, 12
5.10d Stairway to Nowhere

Mixed gear and bolts, seldom climbed and hard to find.

Mixed trad 120m, 4, 10
5.10d Robin Hood

Starts left of "Stairway to Nowhere", up to its summit, further up the ridge into a large bowl, then up to the summit of "Time Wave Zero".

Descent: rappel TWZ.

FFA: Francisco Medina

Trad 760m, 25
5.10c
5.10c Hot Rock Global Challenge

This route is approached by climbing the first 3 pitches of "Jungle Mountaineering" then following the 3rd class trail leftwards up through the garden to the wall.

This is the first line of bolts that will be found on the wall.

Sport 21m, 7
5.10a
5.10a Timon y Pumba
1 5.9
2 5.10a

About 5m left of Space Boyz. Technical slab climbing.

  1. 5.9 25m. Slab.

  2. 5.10a 25m. More slab, a bit steeper.

Sport 50m, 2, 10
5.10a Jungle Mountaineering
1 5.9
2 5.9
3 5.9
4 5.10a

Climb the obvious clean water streak right of the Jungle Boy roof, on the generally left side of the wall. Used to access the "Jungle Bowl".

(Dane's book describes this as run-out, and pitch 3 is listed as 5.9R in Ed's book -- but it has been re-bolted and is no more run-out than normal for EPC.)

  1. 5.9+ Getting to the first bolt is not a cruise. The crux hides near the end, guarded by a single polished foothold.

  2. 5.9 Mostly positive holds with a slight crux.

  3. 5.9 More of the same.

  4. 5.10a Technical traverse into sustained climbing until you've pulled the bulge.

FA: Jeff Jackson & Alex Catlin

Sport 120m, 4
5.10a Jungle Fever

This route is approached by climbing the first 3 pitches of "Jungle Mountaineering" then following the 3rd class trail leftwards up through the garden to the wall.

Sport 61m, 2, 12
5.9
The Cat House
5.9 CatManDo

Starts about 3m right of Black Cat Bone, with a belayer-bolt. Climb up slab to several corners.

Full-value for the grade.

FA: Ralph Vega

Sport 29m, 13
5.9 Maria la Sabrosa

Ed rates this 5.10a, Dane rates it 5.8. I split the difference.

FA: Dane Bass

Sport 34m
5.9 Jungle Boy

Shares start with "Las Chimuelas" and "Warifikis", but goes over the roof at an easier part than Warifikis.

Climb up and over the roof. Then up slab above.

Sport 55m, 2
5.9 Las Chimuelas
1 5.8
2 5.9
3 5.8

Walk up the trail made of concrete tires leftwards from the tin pavilion until you get to the left-most set of bolts, just before the gulley that is "Tamirindo". The first pitch trends leftwards, avoiding the obvious roof.

FA: Magic Ed, Tami & Ismael Garza

Sport 69m, 3
5.8
5.8 The Grafiti Route
Sport 27m, 5
5.8 CDC & J

Slab just to the right of Space Boyz. Has recently been regraded to 5.9 in Frank's book.

Sport 34m, 8
5.8 Déjà vu

About 2 meters to the left of Space Boyz.

Set: Alex Casar, Alysson Franklin & Miguel, 24 Jun 2017

FA: Alex Casar & Alysson Franklin, 24 Jun 2017

Sport 20m, 8
5.8 Las Lienas

Slab with bolts, just to the right of Succulenta -- similar climbing, but a lot more bolts. Name plate at the start.

Sport 34m, 10
5.8 El Tigre

Starts on the same ledge-area as "Jungle Mountaineering", to the right of it.

40m of classic Jungle Wall climbing. Sub-anchor for climbing with a rope under 80m.

FFA: Danely Corona, 2019

Sport 46m, 2, 12
5.8 R
5.8 R Suculenta

Just right of La Chiky Baby; similar climmbing but a lot more run-out. Bring supplementary gear if not confident at the grade.

Name plate on the bottom. .

FA: Antonio Gonzales, 22 Oct 2017

Sport 30m, 6
5.7
5.7 La Chicky Baby

Climb easy slab with solid holds just to the right of Yankee Clipper, now with a plaque at the start.

Newly(2016) cleaned (re-cleaned? there's one really old bolt on it) route just to the right of "Yankee Clipper".

FA: Antonio Gonzalez, 2016

Sport 30m, 9
5.7 Jungle Warfare

The one bolted route on this vegetated wall between the main Jungle wall climbing area and Outrage wall.

FA: Ann Ramsey & Magic Ed

Sport 26m, 8
5.5
5.5 Tamarindo

Climb the gully just left of "Las Chimuelas".

Mostly 4th class, with a few steeper bits.

Trad 30m

Showing all 27 routes.

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