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Routes as top rope in Guanajuato

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Showing all 6 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Alcocer Middle Buttresses Twin Fins
5.9 Bullet Tooth Tony

Starts on the featured face four meters north of LA COLUMNA. Climb up to the featured short face to the ledge, stepping over the cactuses to get onto the upper wall staying two meters to the right of the arête, then directly up the overhanging face via jug holds, topping out at anchors on the North Fin. GEAR: Top rope for now – we plan to bolt this route. 30+ meters. Watch your rope length!

Top rope 40m
Alcocer Upper West Canyon Road Runner Rocks
5.10b Acme Suction Cups

Climb straight up as close to the arête as possible through the first three bolts of Super Speed Vitamins. Extend the third bolt with a sling to prevent rope drag (clip it with an alpine draw). After the third bolt, traverse left to the arête. Head straight up straddling the arête, finding the big holds while making bouldering moves to the top. Anchors are around the corner on the south face at the very top of the pillar. GEAR: Draws for six bolts and one alpine draw or sling for the third bolt. 17 meters.

Top rope 17m
5.9 Chariots of Fur

Start in the dead center of the face and move straight up through loads of features. You have the option of finishing at the Fast and Furry-ous anchors to the right (14 meters) or at the Super Speed Vitamins anchors to the left (16 meters). Both options are rated 5.9.

Top rope 16m
5.10a Invisible TNT

Head straight up the south arête through heavily featured yet steep terrain, staying north (right) of the true arête and angling up and right to the anchors. 14 meters.

Top rope 14m
Alcocer Upper West Canyon Big Red Buttress
5.10c Toasted
Top rope 20m
5.10a Red Heads Rule

Rap in from the top to the huge ledge and a set of anchors. Climb straight up the arête, occasionally getting into the deep dihedral, climbing up on crimpers and steep but solid rock. Watch out for wasp nests. Take a rest at the anchors on the nice ledge 2/3 of the way up, then climb easier terrain all the way to the top. 24 meters. An intermediate, two-bolt anchor is at the ledge 2/3 of the way up.

Top rope 20m

Showing all 6 routes.

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