Routes in Montenegro

Access

From Podgorica to Niksic until Savik small town which is located south of the Durmitor massif. From Savnik go through to Zabljak after about 2 km at the sign "Canyon Komarnica" turn on a side road. Follow a narrow path to the crossroads and turn left. At the next turn, turn right and follow the path all the way to the end.

Access to the wall

Follow well-marked trail to the valley until you see the wall where the grass whispers commit direction (see figure). You need to cross the river before walking trail begins to climb the small hill on the left.

Descent

Rappel series route. There is always a bolt at anchorages or tree that you can use. See drawing for details.

Equipment

The direction is almost pure with a Bolt on most anchorages. If there is no bolt can easily improve anchorage using buddies or chokes. We used two sets of buddies to a size 4, and one lad size 4.5 slightly C3, chokes and some wedges. Two cords of 60m.

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=20753

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19195

Vstopimo na grebenu v levem delu previsne stene. Čez prvo stopnjo in dva raztežaja po lažjem svetu. Desno na rob grebena in po njem čez strmo stopnjo in v lažji svet.

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=20586

Kada se dodje do desne stijene, ona se na samom početku razdvaja na dva grebena. Smjer počinje na prvom grebenu i prati ga do kraja. Drugi cug u stijeni se izdvaja jer je malo teži, a ostali lagani ali krušljivi. Sam smjer izlazi malo ispod cuvenih Pestingradskih vrata.

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=20762

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=20788

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=20587 Smjer je u stjeni odličnog kvaliteta i sa interisantnim detaljima. Prva dva cuga su potpuno vertikalni i pružaju najviše uživanja, dok su naredna dva sve lakši i lakši.

Vstop Mimo blokov v naselju Dobrota pod izrazit steber. 10 minut.

Sestop Sa vrha smjera desno se nailazi na pjesačku stazu, koja vodi ravno u podnožije stijene.

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=20789

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=18966

Vstopimo nekaj metrov višje v desnem delu stebra. Sprva levo na steber in po njem dva raztežaja. Desno čez skalno zaporo in iščemo prehode po grebenu, ki je posejan s strmimi skoki. Še nekaj raztežajev položnejšega grebena.

Vstop Mimo blokov v naselju Dobrota pod izrazit steber. 10 minut.

Sestop

Desno čez greben in navzdol na markirano pot, ki vodi v naselje Dobrota. 1 ura.

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=17304

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19191

Vstopimo v razčlenjen svet pod previsom in po pol raztežaja levo proti razčlenjenem razu. Po njem pod bariero. Levo navzgor na raz in iščemo prehode do plošče z razčlembami in do pastirske poti.

Vstop Iz obmorskega naselja Dobrota začne markirana pot na planino Zalazi. Po poti sto metrov in za hišami v levo po slabši poti pod steno. 10 minut.

Sestop Po pastirski poti v desno na markirano planinsko pot.

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=20593

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19192

Na začetku po razčlenjeni skali in po desetih metrih levo na večjo polico. Še navzgor in levo po poševni razčlembi na rob. Nekaj metrov navzgor in desno na stojišče. Po nekaj metrih desno čez strmi del stene. Zgoraj levo na greben in do pastirske poti, ki poteka nad steno.

Vstop Iz obmorskega naselja Dobrota začne markirana pot na planino Zalazi. Po poti sto metrov in za hišami v levo po slabši poti pod steno. 10 minut.

Sestop Po pastirski poti v desno na markirano planinsko pot.

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19189

Vseskozi po grebenu na vrh njega.

Vstop Iz obmorskega naselja Dobrota in fotografije z vrisano smerjo poiščemo greben, po katerem poteka smer. (Ogledamo si dobro področje, kjer naj bi potekal sestop). Poiščemo najlažji prehod med nekdanjimi terasami. Čez spodnji del stene, ki te pripelje na pastirsko pot. Prvi lažji prehod levo na greben. 25 minut.

Sestop V levo poiščemo prehod do previsne stene in ob njej navzdol. Vseskozi iščemo zaraščeno pastirsko pot, ki te poševno navzdol pripelje do vznožja stene. Po melišču do prvih hiš v Dobroti.

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=20595

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19188

Smer poteka po neizrazitem razu, ki je razdeljen na tri dele. Vmes je lažji teren. Vseskozi se držimo raza in iščemo najlepše prehode.

Vstop Iz obmorskega naselja Dobrota in fotografijo z vrisano smerjo poiščemo steno po kateri poteka smer. (Ogledamo si dobro področje, kjer naj bi potekal sestop). Poiščemo najlažji prehod med nekdanjimi terasami do vstopa v smer ob kovinskim električnim stebrom. 25 minut.

Sestop V levo poiščemo prehod do previsne stene in ob njej navzdol. Vseskozi iščemo zaraščeno pastirsko pot, ki te poševno navzdol pripelje do vznožja stene. Po melišču do prvih hiš v Dobroti.

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=19190

Čez plošče navzgor na rob. Od tu tri raztežaje po lahkem svetu pod strm del grebena. V levem delu po poklini v lažji svet in po grebenu na rob.

Vstop Iz obmorskega naselja Dobrota po stari poti, ki te pripelje pod greben. 25 minut.

Sestop Na levo stran iščemo najlažje prehode za sestop.

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=17301

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=20574

http://www.plezanje.net/climbing/db/showRoute.asp?route=20573

Approach:

Same as for route "Pozarevacki", start is 50 meters on the right below easily visible big flake.

Route:

Follow system of cracks to the bottom of the flake , over the flake to reach the low angle ground and continue following the line of least resistance to the end of the wall

Descent: follow ridge on the right until visible filed than down the forest to the road.

The first ascent in sumer 2005 for 2 days by Marta Markiewicz, Andrzej Kościelniak and Mateusz Paradowski.

Access

Moving along the base of the rock from the direction of the village there is a clear shell that is broadly offset by a rock and reaches its polovine.Ulaz the point that is at the base of the shell from the direction of the village.

Description

The steep groove to the first plateau between the shell and rock. Separated from the shell and placed over the cracks (V) on the steep high shelf of grass. Rack up under a rock to very pronounced cracks that developed into a fireplace. Through fireplace (IV), so when you finish window obstruct left 10m m over the shelf and proceed by the fireplace (IV), which is now very tight and not recommended tall people. Get out on the next shelf. Continue on through the jump (IV) to a small vwoma deep cave that is in the amount of huge gullies that ends ceiling. Left of the cave very first iztaženim ridge (V, k, k, k) by the end of the vertical groove (V + k, k) covered with grass and width 10-15 cm on the shelf above mentioned ceiling. Over exposed cracks (vi, k, k) on the left above and over the smooth plate (IV +) to the edge of the rock

Descend

Rappel range direction, rappel is possible by using a cable because it allows the schedule policy.

Remark

The rock left about 10 wedges, repeaters recommend several smaller buds.