Showing all 30 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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18 Hard | The Sufferer and the Witness - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 37m, 3 | Kawakawa Bay | Average | Tue 6th Feb 2024 | |||
Aidan's idea, quite pleased I wasn't leading it, dirty as and very very chossy to the left. Some was sent down to terrify the belayer, much remains up there. Got harness gear well stuck in a small manuka and came off, removed it. Crux is cleanish, very balancy and possibly harder than 18. P2 anchor is a pair of surprise carrots. One strand of access hand line is getting a bit core shot. Memorable in the wrong way. Distracted ourselves with more track fairy work down below.
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19 | ★★ The Sweet and the Savage - with Gareth Hall | 30m | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Feb 2020 | |||
Absorbing traverse with good gear. Took a sit before the crux to sort my head out, then committed to the high compressed undercling moves. Getting gear in around the corner had me going a bit after that. Top pitch is maybe a bit stiff for 16, in the same way High Hopes is. Ran both pitches together with acceptable drag, but resulted in poor communication.
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17 | ★★ Manbearpig - with Angela Hewlett | 15m | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Jan 2021 | |||
Haha, cocked up the crux, but had a nice big nut above me. It's hard to go in for pro then get back out to make the move, made worse by forgetting my wide palm-off beta from last time. Angela did a much better job.
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22 |
★★ Mr Mojo
- with
Gareth
1
22
30m
lead by
John Pitcairn
Great pitch. Pumpy through the crimps, needed a sit. A number of attempts at finding the crux sequence with several chunky falls. Core shot the rope but didn't notice, shiiittt. Belayed at the new lower anchor, removed a loose rock and lowered it.
2
18
30m
lead by
Gareth
Loose rock, lichen, confusing bolting at top, scrabbly topout over loose gravel to overcrowded caveman anchor. Not 19. Removes a star, don't bother, just do P1. | 60m, 13 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Sun 9th Apr 2023 | |||
22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete | 28m, 11 | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Nov 2018 | |||
So so close to onsight, but light rain hit around halfway, foot slipped off at the crux, dammit. A quick regroup, got the move and greased up the rapidly slickening remainder. Excellent moves and position. Priority revisit needed.
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22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete - with Tim Swain | 28m, 11 | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Nov 2019 | |||
Cleaned gear on abseil from Blindman's up to first crux from Tim's attempt then had a go. At least one take at each crux remembering the moves, and a fall at the round-the-arete move before getting the balance right. Injured left shoulder definitely limiting some strength and flexibility, pretty happy to even get up it.
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22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete - with Grant Johnston | 28m, 11 | Kawakawa Bay | ★★★ Classic | Thu 31st Dec 2020 | |||
A revisit before leaving. Left it too long between attempts, forgot my own beta, fell off into the usual tree, got suckered by face features, had a couple of pumped sits, but got up it, back can't be too bad. Terrific route.
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20 | ★★ Korimako - with Gareth | 25m, 11 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Wed 2nd Feb 2022 | |||
Unsent. Felt harder than last time, maybe humidity, maybe some crystals have ground off, maybe the different shoes, maybe just having a shit day.
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22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete - with Gareth, Amy | 28m, 11 | Kawakawa Bay | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Apr 2022 | |||
Haha, unsent again. Had a brain fart at the second crux, one take to sort my shit out rather than take the plummet into the tree again.
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22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete - with Jonno Rau | 28m, 11 | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Jan 2023 | |||
Feeling OK at the crux, then discovered I was z-clipped and not going anywhere. Cooked myself undoing that from the crux position then peeled off into the tree trying to make the move. Hauled up then got it. Idiot.
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22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete - with Gareth | 28m, 11 | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | |||
1 fall at first crux. Hard on the skin.
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22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete - with Gareth, Justin Wimmer | 28m, 11 | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Jan 2024 | |||
Back in the evening, rock still a bit warm. All going well then cocked up the 2nd crux and paid the tree a visit. Couldn't crunch up enough to get toe on the rock over, had to go on a heel. Warming up first might have helped.
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20 | ★★ Great Scott - with Gareth | 27m, 10 | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Jan 2022 | |||
Snaked in front of Alex on his draws before the heat. Barndoored off at the balance crux before finding the sidepull, fingers just caterpillared to it next try. Right of the bolts above the mantle is way easier than any direct. Had a look at the dodgy block on Critters Corner on the way down.
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20 | ★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) - with Gareth | 15m, 8 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Sat 5th Feb 2022 | |||
Getting really really humid early afternoon. Foot greased off the crux flake.
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20 | ★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) - with Gareth, Justin Wimmer | 15m, 8 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Thu 4th Jan 2024 | |||
Thumb press popped off, rats. Pretty green down low, could use a scrub later in summer.
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19 | ★★ Pinch and a Punch - with Tim Swain | 20m, 7 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Tue 8th Jan 2019 | |||
Pumpy! A hard start (unless you traverse in left?) and it doesn't let up. Had a sit and shake out before the crux, knew I wouldn't make it. Fought through it from there successfully, holds are sharpish. Will return for another go.
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18 | ★★ The Reach Around - with Gareth Hall | 23m, 7 | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Jan 2020 | |||
Just missed the throw to the hopeful pocket at the top crux, did a rapid down-scuttle to the ledge but unfortunately weighted the rope a bit. Bugger. Got it second throw. This is really good, keeps you thinking the whole way.
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18 | ★ Respect My Authoritah - with Gareth Hall | 20m, 5 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Mon 24th Feb 2020 | |||
WTF Donovan? Fell, sat, had steam coming out my ears trying to figure out the crux. Gritty feet didn't help, but I can't see this being 18.
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19 | ★ Drink Like A Lady (LeD) - with Grant Johnston, Gareth | 12m, 5 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Wed 30th Dec 2020 | |||
Suckered too far left by Grant after bolt 2, needed a sit and re-compose but came close to onsight. Wander around is right! Probably suits the light and nimble climber, pretty good, will revisit.
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22 | ★★ Predator - with Gareth | 12m, 5 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Jan 2022 | |||
Thought we'd top rope after James led, but no sign of him so got on it with a chalk bag on feeling very sporty. A bit nervy getting first draw on and clipped, then sat on it. Went bolt-to-bolt from there, working out a good sequence among many many chalked-up sucker holds. Managed to get through bolt 5 clean. After bolt 1 it all works best as big moves between jugs.
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22 | ★★ Predator - with Gareth | 12m, 5 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Jan 2022 | |||
Another go on top rope to try and link it. Forgot the holds around bolt 4, one sit. Will revisit.
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22 | ★★ Predator - with Gareth | 12m, 5 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Sat 5th Feb 2022 | |||
Close. A bit pumped and too far left after clipping 3rd bolt, took one sit. Threw to the wrong (higher) hold after first bolt, backed down and did it again. Rain coming in but this was staying dry. Swam in the lake in the rain after. An OK early trip end.
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22 | ★★ Predator - with Jonno Rau, Gareth | 12m, 5 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Wed 27th Dec 2023 | |||
After some evening Jugzilla hand-line fixing. Haha, nope, fell or sat on each of the first 4 bolts. Maybe should have warmed up. Lengthy top rope session followed.
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18 | ★ Alcoholics Anonymous - with Gareth, Wade | 18m, 4 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Sat 12th Dec 2020 | |||
Broke a flake hold near the top, couldn't stay on.
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20 | ★ Sunday School - with Gareth | 17m, 4 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Jan 2024 | |||
Took a long time and a couple of takes to find the right sequence after 3rd bolt.
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19 | ★ Don’t Be A Prick, Clean Your Tick - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 20m, 4 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Feb 2024 | |||
Bloody high 1st bolt preclipped, but the climbing to it is easy enough. Fluffed the crux trying to use Aidan's beta, eventually found something better for me. Must come back for this.
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23 |
★★ Rise Of The Sloths (Rise Of The Sloths P1)
- with
Wade
1
23
12m
| 12m | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Sat 12th Dec 2020 | |||
So close! Pinged a mono stack off around bolt 3. Next time.
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23 |
★★ Rise Of The Sloths
| 25m | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Mon 28th Dec 2020 | |||
A bit of a back injury test - seems I can't put my shoes on without difficulty, but can still climb OK. Probably starting too far right, a couple of sits on the slab (which is starting to polish), then a long sling on the anchor and first-time fun up top.
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18 | ★★ Soul Train | 45m | Kawakawa Bay | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th Jan 2018 | |||
A sit and a short fall working out the crux. This is really bloody good, only overshadowed by High Hopes right next door. Took gear up but there isn't much if any. A little spicy on the bolt spacing when you are in the thick of it but clean falls and challenging crux moves at the grade. Recommended.
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21 | ★ Hugs Not Drugs - with Angela Hewlett | 20m | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Sun 27th Jan 2019 | |||
Attempting to keep it very pure, straight up, no drifting or reaching for jugs left or right. Took a long fall, then a couple of shorter ones. The top crux is maybe just barely 22 done this way. A bit off my best game.
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Showing all 30 ascents.