Routes as alpine in Mount Aspiring/Tititea

The trade route for Mt Aspiring. NZ Grade III, 2

A mega-classic of the Southern Alps. NZ Grade III, 3+.

Five pitches of ice which form an alternate start to the Coxcomb Ridge. NZ Grade III, 4.

NZ Grade III, 3

The route of first ascent of Mt Aspiring in 1909. NZ Grade III, 3

An easier access and descent route for the North West Ridge. Has been the scene of several fatalities, care is required in the afternoon with softening snow. NZ Grade III, 2

Follows a rock rib up the centre of the face before a section of mixed terrain leading to the Coxcomb Ridge. NZ Grade IV, 3

NZ Grade IV, 5

NZ Grade III, 3

Access is made by abseiling off the Coxcomb from the Bonar which is a wee bit committing. NZ Grade IV, 6

NZ Grade V, 5

NZ Grade V, 6

NZ Grade IV, 3

The line of first ascent of the South Face which sounds like it was a bit of an epic! Parallels the South West Ridge via a series of snow ramps and rock steps. After crossing the prominent snow arete, the line traverses right until a number of exit gullies are reached, all at a similar grade. NZ Grade IV, 4.

NZ Grade IV, 4

A direct finish to the Original Line which avoids traversing and takes a line straight to the summit via a short section of steep ice. NZ Grade IV, 5

NZ Grade IV, 5

NZ Grade IV, 5+

NZ Grade IV, 5+

NZ Grade IV, 5+

Start as for Perspiring. Climb through the lower rock band, follow gully and then gradually traverse left until under obvious notch. Head up through some ice/mixed pitches and exit at the obvious notch at the coxcomb. 12 x 60m pitches plus four pitches along the Coxcomb ridge. Cruxes pitch 1 WI3 & M3, Pitch 3 WI3+ & M4, Pitch 10 WI3+ & M3, Pitch 12 M4 8-12 ice screws, single set of cams 0 - 2, single set of wires 1 - 7, 8-12 draws. NZ Grade IV, 5+

A deep-winter linkup from the Whiston-Hyslop start to a new finish between Shooting Star and Thule. FA involved descent down the NW/Ramp via the Coxcomb. Generally WI2/3 climbing (in condition) other than the beautiful 60m crux pitch - a WI3 hose, with three vertical mixed steps at WI4+ / M5. Route is defined by the large chockstone visible in the middle of the flow, which breaks the second rock band - the start of the crux pitch moves around this to the right - belaying underneath is recommended for overhead on the crux. FA gear: Nuts (8 - 13), Cams & Tricams (x6 to #2), Screws (x12), 2-3 Blades. 15 - 18hrs on FA. NZ Grade IV, 5+

NZ Grade IV, 5

NZ Grade IV, 5

Grade V, 3+

A short 6th pitch can be avoided if you begin belaying above the schrund. Pick your way up and along a right leaning shallow groove with mixed moves on the first pitch, until you can move up and left to gain a consistent ice flow in the second. Near vertical sections through the rest of the climb easing on the final pitch and trending right to gain the ridge. Gear: 10 x ice screws. Bring mainly shorter screws as this route is likely to have thinner ice than its neighbours. NZ Grade IV, 5