Routes in Britten Crag

Lh Traverse. Starts as for Disco Logic and circles leftwards & up wards using top bolt of NN and going left across the top regions of Thorn Bird finishing at top of Mt Pleasant Butcher

Now 28 - until Vaughan glues the hold back on. Very steep route with glued holds two metres right. Climb past five bolts up a steeply overhanging wall to abseil chains. Originally a project by Matt Evrard

Climb into the wombat hole, then surmount the horizontal roof with creativity. Thin moves up the head wall lead up and left, then back right over the bulge. Anchor is currently a single staple.

Climb Peak Plonkers to the third bolt, then traverse hard right, clipping the bolt beneath the roof, to link with Hushpuppy below its final bolt. Hard if you stay below the roof on the traverse, easier if you traverse higher.

Starts about 1.5 metres to the right of Real Slim Shady. Somehow surmount the roof on minuscule holds, then link into RSS past the third bolt. Take care with the death blocks at the top.

Takes a line left of Southern Exposure, swing out left onto reasonable holds, continue gymnastically over the roof and up small holds to get to a jug at the fourth BR. Move up and over the roof to finish at the belay of SE.

Climbs the obvious big corner / roof. Traverse right under the roof, into the V niche, then trend left and up to chain anchors

Another couple of metres right with even more glued holds. Good moves though.

Climb Great White to the last bolt, then traverse left to link into the top of Silence of the Wombats for its last bolt. Really just a variant finish, but fun nonetheless.

Climb from the alcove right of Peak Plonkers through the left side of a large roof. Slightly left after the fifth bolt under some large blocks to gain the anchors. Five bolts

A line of right-trending bolts finishing up an overhanging bulge. Start two metres right of Panda Monium and move up; then traverse right along a ledge to the second bolt before moving left to a large undercling. Thin holds lead to a traverse past the third bolt and then up to bigger holds. After losing a hold, this route is harder than when first climbed. Shares anchors with the next route.

Start as for Tropical Storm, but at its third bolt, hand traverse rightward along the lip of the roof to join Skunk 2, and lower off its third bolt.

Powerful moves through the roof left of The Big C.

A bolted boulder problem that climbs through the roof left of Footloose. A stout sequence right off the deck leads to good holds. Traverse into Footloose past the 3rd bolt.

Start 1½ metres right in a short corner. Hard moves onto a ledge, then shuffle left and clip the second bolt. Straight up the wall with a series of dynamic moves to finish on a ledge above and right of the Liposuction anchors at a single lowering bolt at the back of the ledge.

The last route through the roof. A short capped corner gives access to the roof. Go straight over the top bulge, clipping if you have strength to burn. Once at the headwall bolt traverse off directly right to the last move and anchors of Weet-bix Kids

Climb the Butcher to the 4th bolt then link into Wall Street for its bulge crux.

Close to YG but good independent climbing. Carefully pull over the roof above the track on funky holds. Clip the 2nd bolt of YG then crimp up the groove on its right. Then there are three more bolts and larger holds

Above an overgrown block is this route up a steeply overhanging wall. Simon Middlemass set it up, but Jeff did it not realising it was a first ascent.

Starts directly in front of the large boulder. Straightforward moves on good holds past the first bolt, followed by long reaches on small crimps and/or a dyno through the overhang. Continue over the lip where the third bolt intersects with Nor West Arch. Finish up the arête above. Six bolts, with an optional small cam placement between fourth and fifth.

A direct start with two extra bolts, plus one from Nor West Arch.

Start down by the nettles below a large roof resembling an inverted staircase. Move easily up to clip the first and second bolts to the more strenuous, technical climbing and a good hold at the third bolt. Weave your way around on good holds past the next two bolts to exit through an obvious notch. Five bolts. Two bolt anchor with chains above and to the left.

Start as for Speight’s Race, clipping its first bolt. Upon reaching the roof, lean out left and clip, then surmount the prow, trending left to the next bolt. Easier but balancey climbing past 2 more bolts leads to the anchor.

Hard climbing through the big roof to the third bolt over the lip. Shares the last bolt of Off The Shelf and the same anchor.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Go left at the roof and continue up the groove. Rejoin the standard route higher up.

Start right of The Rocket, between the large corokia and the harakeke. Climb the techy face to beneath the roof, clip the bolt, and make a series of hard moves to get established on the slab. Run it out to the anchors.

Note: please be careful to avoid damaging the broadleaf trees and flax plants at the base of this route.

On the left side of the pigeon cave. Follow four bolts up an ever steepening wall and across the top roof on better holds than you might expect. Use Mutilation's anchors

Start up ‘Weet-Bix Kids’ and at the third bolt head slightly rightwards and finish up the last two bolts of ‘Liposuction’ combining the two best bits of each route for a harder more sustained variation.

Climb the Butcher, mantle over the roof, then veer left to finish as for ‘Wall Street Crumble’

Left finish from Panda Monium's third bolt

An eliminate line between American Dream and Speights Race, with good strenuous climbing. From the top of the ochre coloured block climb the initial wall past two bolts to the large roof. Go slightly right, then back left to the third bolt, which is out of sight around the nose on the left. Go straight up to a fourth bolt and a high step onto the steep head wall above. At the fifth bolt finish direct (steep and fingery), or alternatively above the fifth bolt move left to the top of the groove

An alternative start to ‘The Beer Hunter’ start just right of a slimy seepage line, climb direct onto the ledge and corner.

About four metres left of the Matterhorn boulder. Over the roof to a resting ledge. Finish up the steepest part of the black wall to a double bolt anchor. Five bolts tending right.

Three metres right of Mis-spent Youth, just left of a black streak. Prepared by Simon Middlemass eons ago, and climbed inadvertently. Hard start, then trend right on fingery holds. Five bolts, use Sunburst Finish anchors.

Start as for WAFTT. Climb to the first bolt but then go left and climb the insipient leftward trending crack past a second bolt to a good rest and a third bolt. Step right and climb the bulging face past the fourth bolt. Finish up easier ground to a single old bolt on top of the crag

Climbs the severely undercut wall on from the left arête, start just left of the start of ‘Where Angels Fear to Tread’. Take wires for the top, otherwise there is ground fall potential clipping the anchor.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Just right of the arete, about 5m left of the fence. Climb through the roof and finish up the face.

No usable anchor at the top. One bolt with a washer, a nut but no hanger. Needs a lower off +/- another bolt.

Swing rightward to gain the wall above the cave.

The right-most route in the cave area. Start under the overhang on decent holds. A long reach to the glue reenforced holds then continue straight up to it’s own independent anchor.

The left side of the arête. Start slightly left, moving right past the second bolt and then up. Five bolts and two anchor rings.

On the left side of the cave. Four bolts lead directly up an overhanging wall with a capping roof to conclude at double anchor rings. There is a squating rest on the pillar halfway up.

First route of the "modern" development of Britten. Deceptively steep wall just left of the cave. A nut or large wire can be used at the start climbing onto the protruding nose Straight up the wall to a good hold left of the third bolt, then rightward to the chains just above the lip on the right.

Skirts the right side of the roof. Difficult start on slopey holds. Climb the shallow groove to a small roof, then left to gain a standing position on the ledge. Finish up the steep crumbly wall to a large ledge and lowering anchor

Start at the edge of the cave just left of Big Girls Blouse, below and right of the first bolt. Move diagonally up and left past the first bolt to the second. Climb straight up the wall to the roof, then move left, up and back right over the roof to finish. The anchor is on a block up in the grass about five metres back. Four bolts. .

Overhanging route left of the cave, partially prepared by Simon Courtois. Start at the yellow boulder and haul up over the roofs on good holds, moving slightly right to finish. Great cranking. The abseil chains have good access from the top, but tend to land you in the elderberry. .

Follow the vague groove.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Just right of Scott Free, climb the right side of the arete to a shared anchor.

Death choss blocks from bolts 2-4. Avoid this route until the blocks have been removed.

No usable anchor at the top. One bolt with a washer, a nut but no hanger. Needs a lower off +/- another bolt.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.