Routes in Waitaha / Canterbury for selected grade

Very steep route following a groove and crack line rightward, on the right side of the cave. Technically easy but you need a certain amount of strength. Three bolts and anchor bolts.

Climb onto ledge then onto block, then ascend the steep featured wall, to the left of the vegetated crack.

Nice face climbing on small holds.

Nice, technical and sustained.

Corner left of overlap. Finish directly up over steep ground on good holds or you can move right and finish as for 'Passage To India'(as done originally)

Optional nut placement before 1st bolt. Otherwise, strenuous and technical climbing to second bolt where it eases off.

Move straight up to the third bolt then move right before finishing.

rebolted by Tony in 2016, this is a great warm-up or a good lead for those breaking into 20 on lead. Climbs good flat holds just left of the vegetation and up into the quake scar at the top.

Avoid using the crack and climb the face directly past the bolts to the juggy finish.

Two metres right is a line of six bolts (top one hidden) up a straightforward wall to a small roof and into a groove. Excellent climbing - easy to the fourth bolt, then technical moves to the top. Abseil anchors slightly rightwards.

Follow line of bolts up the (very) vague prow towards the right of the face. After a spicy run out to the third bolt, and a bit of grovelling to avoid the guano cave, you reach the chains.

Starts from big sloping holds to a small pillar, finishing in the scoop. Finish straight up for a slightly harder variant.

Great route with an improved approach. Climb the insitu ladder to access the bottom. Enjoy the exposure up high!

Cool route up overhang.

In the centre of the brown wall is this direct route over a small roof and up a steep headwall. Hard pulling over the roof, then a rest before a steep exit on the upper wall.

Climb under the overhang, squeeze out left, use crack system and follow line of bolts.

Same start as 10mm FMJ but continue straight up the wall.

Start on pointy block and do hard moves through corner to easier climbing up arete.

Starts just right of Tres Estrellas De Oro. Climb the face up to the second bolt, then continue up the arête to a single bolt anchor.

Impressive line finishing up the high prow. Step carefully up and right to the second bolt (run-out), then move leftward past the third bolt. The route steepens above the fourth bolt, with tricky moves on to the "Pizza-eating Ledge", left of the fifth bolt. Climb up and step right for the move to the chains at the lip. Seven bolts, and abseil chains.

A couple of metres right is this nice route up a steepening wall and over a small bulge near the top. Four bolts, chain link anchors just over the lip. .

On the vertical face to the right of Supreme Pontiff. Climb the right-facing corner and crack, trending right at the top, then step left to the anchor.

Start on the hole while smearing and rock-over.

Follows first three bolts of Spliffhanger, then continues directly up.

Climb the steep wall beside the right arête.

At last, a 20 with bite - borderline 21. Direct route up the undercut arête. Committing moves with hard pulls to the second bolt, then easier to the top. Four bolts and a lowering bolt

The rightmost bolted line at the crag, and the first one reached from the access track. Climb the corner, trending right to a roof then up a blade-like flake feature to the right. Single bolt anchor.

Bouldery start on slopers to easier finish.

Mt Somers classic.

Another one a couple of metres right. Straight-forward climbing until the wall steepens, with a slopey top out requiring a move to the right. Four bolts and shares a double chain anchor with the next climb. .

Hard pulling to get through the roof, joining Endless Summer after the third bolt.

Start as for Kingfisher and move right on to the slab below the overhang.

Grade: V2 CCH15

Dyno between big pockets (Stand Start)

Great arête

Bolted line right of Hippocratic Oaf.

Just right of Top Shelf. Climb through the small roof on to the wall, then finish as for Top Shelf.

Up the thin crack line to the right of Catholic Girls. Finish with some sinker handjams, or resort to laybacking if you must.

Line of bolts leading up and left from the DBB on the party ledge. Goes around the arête to the slabs and then finishes at DBB at the top of Birth Canal. Can be climbed more directly and a little harder using some trad straight up the crack and then rejoining the route. Great exposure if you climb the arête to the top after the crack.

Chimney

Short steep jug hauling at the far left of the Surgical Strike Wall. Basically a highball boulder problem.

Start at the bulging prow on the right of the gully.

Start on top of the yellow lichen-covered boulder. Pull over the roof (second bolt to the right) and up to a detached book-like flake. Finish up the easier groove above.

Shares first bolt as Cold Ground before moving directly up above ledge. Crux fall could land you on ledge.

Start with left hand on side pull and right hand on V cut.

Three bolts up the arete, and another one when merging with Hebe Jebe. No anchors, the suggestion is to use the anchors for Hebe Jebe.

Pitch 1 25m grade 15 pitch 2 25m grade 19 pitch 3 14m grade 14 pitch 4 25m grade 20

Heavily featured yellow scoop with plenty of polish then a long easy slab. Be careful on the descent!

Start on the right arete traverse to the left side arete and top out.

Starts at DBB on Half Height Ledge on the right side of The Keep. Climb slab up to the left of the roof and then traverse right back above the roof passing 3 bolts until you reach the farthest right line of bolts. Climb up clipping 3 more bolts and then wires or cams to top out at DBB on a ledge.

Climb through a small roof on the right side of the wall.

Straight up the steep wall to Br1, dynamic moves from the big jug gets you onto the balancy wall with vague parallel lines- follow these to DBA.

Sit start on LH sidepull pinch, RH diagonal edge, with a right heel hook. Slap up the arête, topping out at the highest point (a full 2m!). Avoiding the dab is the crux.

On the right side of the arête from Altared. Start in the right-facing corner and climb past the flaring crack to finish left.