Ascents in Hospital Flat having Beta

Awesome climb, overhanging and conpressiony so very different compared to the Wanaka norm

Opened the account, worked out all my moves up to the headwall then bailed when the nut was almost off my bolt and the next one was missing entirely 😯

Many attempts, no success, extremely brutal sequence but so fun to try, and easy to attempt with the boulder beside meaning you can add draws on to protect the first moves

Finally Done! great line

Had a play

Top Guns, 29

Took me 9 tries over 3 sessions, hard boulder problem from 5 to 6th hold with draws on. Vamos!

So good.. Even better than slim shady. Sent on a 29 degree day.. Felt like tonsai clinbing! 28 felt right.

Great route, maybe a new winter project, did most of the moves and some good links. Need to figure out the middle section before the big diagonal crack and the very last moves

Worked out all the moves, but couldn't link through the crux from the ground, especially after losing a lot of skin working the crux. Will be back for this!

Thin and chossy

Working

Clean to halfway!

Good route! Beautiful rock

So good!

Linked the first half after a few tries.

Turns out campusing the crux might not be the best beta.

One working attempt, one redpoint burn where I fell at the Crux coming out of the roof. Very glad I tried it, will work on my weakness and will come back for it one-day. Need better power endurance and the ability to rest on route.

Just held on and didnt sweat.

Rad! Just need to pull harder on some small crimps and itll go

First attempt, moves all went pretty quickly lots of fear

Forgot some sequences but got to the top quicker and fresher moves felt good

Went for a red point got 2 sections mixed up in my head but completed climb with a large overlap. And got footage for beta, hopefully send tomorrow

Hanging draws trying to familiarise moves

New high point then lost feet again

High point again dropped foot going for last big move probably would have sent had I not got this wrong

Feeling a little fatigue and lost my way again with foot beta

Feet wrong again, decided to try go from the rest ledge up to the big move, got that clean

Shorter rest than I'd have liked but we had to leave so I went up and did all moves smoothly and went straight to the top, thought it'd go 3rd tie in, instead it took 9. Still 2 sessions for a 27 seems decent for my second 27 (maybe the book is right and only 26 if you're my height?)

Just tried this since I've seen a few people on it, quite punchy to a good rest then I didn't quite work out the next sequence but it seems possible just need to work out how to fit in the box and which heels to get where.

Glad to tick this one on the last day. 2 boulder problems with a good knee bar in between. Really cool!

Really fun bouldery route.

Managed to get to the last draw, hit the slot but couldn't get moves higher, fingers bleeding, and feeling tired. Looking forward to climbing again! I tried to brush of the blood spots best I could 😅😬

Fingers were not ready, wasn't really worth the try

26 in the Wanaka guide. Fun sequence.

Fun little boulder problem, very beta intensive if you're short and can't span the moves

Weird boulder problem at the start. Lovely face section and then lovely big holds to the top

First of the grade! Awesome climb, enjoyed projecting this one a lot

Swear I'm cursed on this route. Every time I try I split my finger right on the first pad crease. Made it to the crux but didn't bother trying it.

Curse of the 27 strikes again. Taped up my finger from yesterday's split only for the next finger along to split in the same place. Managed to do almost every move. Fun climb

Came very close to sending second go, but fell after the main crux. One hang. Would be keen to come back for it.

Bouldery fun