Ascents in North America by Glen "Spray n Chuff" Tsie

There's no way this is V10. Highly morpho.

get a spotter so you don't flatback off crux...

one sesh, maybe 10 goes?

Very hard to rate b/c poison control is morpho style related. But just going off of how it felt relative to other Kraft test-pieces.

started with gaston did not use sloper beta

betabreak: left to grey streak crimp instead of v-notch.

Used beta from Keoni "Come on Obe" Onsaga and David Gibbons for the wide stemmy start with drop knee. Pleasing movement. somehow didn't cut on the first crux.

Hard to rate felt morpho with trick move. Maybe we need a new grade "V6789".

At night. Heinous starting crimps.

left toe hook is more fun, but significantly reduces difficulty.

Sent it after two seasons on my 164th attempt. Best climb at the Hood so far.

Kyle on belay. Roost Empty. 15 attempts over 5 or 7 days. Very foggy and high humidity.

#working

#working

dogged to anchors to practice final maneuver.

fell putting heel in after last clip.

fell real low. powered down after not warming up on SOC and Urban.

botched the right foot for left hand sloper move

fell going to target; botched right foot for final stem

ran out of gas at jug before handjam rest.

fell right after warlord jug on cross to the pod. Windy and glassy.

Made it to rest. Fell going to left hand sloper. Need to rest right hand more.

figured out knee-scum

bump right hand beta. hard to rate. about 10 tries one session.

couldn't even get off the ground. sit start right hand crimp, left hand underneath on right facing slopey block. get off the ground and jump to ledge seemed impossible.

old guide books have it at V7 but it appears to have been upgraded.

Condition dependent for weak sauce like myself

3 sessions. Good holds, hard moves, tricky delicate beta.

toe hook cheat code

Shane on belay. Austin on camera.

very fun route except for heel hook for the hardest move at the start of the climb

Superb Ultra best climb in red rock

Drop knees

Another amazing route. Hard.

Another McQuade national treasure! Used the knee scum variation which was more kinesthetically pleasing than the crimp traverse.

2 tries Sat, send first go Sunday. Definitely soft. Got a no hands k bar at the intro crux eliminating that boulder, then the dyno is height dependent, but ultimately not 5.13 difficulty. Almost every 5.12d at Red Rock is more challenging.

sent after two start holds broke following rain/snow. a touch harder, and definitely not as good. Minus 2 stars.

One of the best sport climbs in red rock

probably 30 tries spread out over a decade. hard boulder problem!