Ascents in North America by Jim Olsen having trad-cpr or ascent-date

FFA. I think this is the first technical climb on Cabizon. A few 5.5 moves, a lot of consistant 5.3-5.4. We hope to do some more there. Camping out the night before was great

led 3x in '04 also '92 or'93

Slightly monotonous.

The standard ascent route starts up a chimney with some loose 20 to 40 pound boulders you need to hang on to climb it, so I moved 15' around the corner up a face (Fritz pointed out) which still had some, much more manageable loose rocks, for the first pitch. The rest was on the standard route.

Four leads, I led one. It was onsight for me but not Ray. Ray Jacquot, Bob Frisby, an englishman and I did it.

'92 + '93. Route in guidebook is average, well above average if you go straight up on face for second lead. Upper part of first lead is too easy; could climb on "arete" 2' right of dihedral to keep this section interesting.

bypassed the crux move on my lead (a woose-out)

Was gonna lead Juniper Overhang, but wussed out.

Seemed harder than 5.6

Aptly named. In and out of funny chimney (need to be skinny to get out of chimney) onto face

Reclimbed it in 2005. Keeping near the right side of the water stain vastly improves the climb. Doing all possible face climbing on second pitch also improves climb and adds a little bit of 5.7. Runout!

So good I did it twice in one day, one lead, one second.

We started about 100' to the right of Lost Line. The route joins Lost Line at the second belay point. Top half of the Third pitch features a fun arete (total 5 pitches). Slings at first belay point indicate it's been climbed often on.

Rock holds pro really well and first lead is continually good climbing.

Lotsa fun on fantastic rock. Climbed w/ Mike Olsen. Bypassed crux.

Great little climb. Did I do this one before?

Led first and fourth pitches. Thouroughly enjoyable.

Seconded Fritz. A route to avoid the 3rd class scramble just above the 1st pitch of the Guillotine. Bring a 60 meter rope.

Chimney, a bit brushy and a bit dirty.

First significant climb. There was a stem section at the top (First Climb was Walt's Wall, but the grade doesn't match current ratings so I can't locate which climb it was.)

Did trad lead but second pulled all pitons out with fingers, meaning I had no protection. This means it was a de-facto free solo (opinion of my climbing friends).

First pitch a bit ledgy.

My first lead after having foot surgery. Went well.

It was a good exercise in route finding, glorious views. It's great to sit at belay and watch people way below walking down a path between your toes. Actually just 5 1/2 leads of fifth class. The rest is fourth and third

On both Jack Knife and Cave Crack I had to jam down on the bunion on the bottom of my foot. Can't remember the climb much, just the pain.

Weird weather; high winds, heavy clouds, scud, spotty rain;so we decided to do something easy.

5.5 X for adults, 5.6 X for kids. This route is charming, on greenish bumpy rock between unnamed 1 and Gila Monster. Goes up to tree. Kids should love it toproped.

led 3 variations '92 and '04; most or all exited left of actual route.

in '04 off route, in '93 on route, I think.

second pitch 1, led pitch 2

FFA. In gorge near bridge (visible from same) going to Pathfinder. Rappel from big tree near pillar, climb pillar, do a Tyrolean traverse back to tree. Look down in middle of traverse, awesome~!

FFA. Left of Commie Pinkos, 2 leads, over series of ledges

Did Ledges again with Rex Hoff and 2 others. Led first 3 or 4 leads. It got terribly cold and we got back too late to get any picnic lunch food.

Eleven leads long. Climbed with several people. Ran into some light snow and a lightningstorm. At one point lightning was striking above us on the summit.

FFA. Diag. right to hollow on Juniper Direct (belay - when we climbed it there was loose rock over belay ). Diag. rt. past tree to second tree. Diag. rt to top.

second

Led first 6 pitches, had climbed all 8 pitches on October 11, 1964