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Ascents in North America by Jim Olsen having trad-cpr or ascent-date

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 142 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Date
5.8 Old Sling Trad 27m Diablo Canyon Don't Bother Tue 28th Oct 2008
Actually the ramp was kinda fun; lotsa exposure. This is how we got to the chains at the top of Protein Supplement and Sunbaked.

 
5.8 Shoes for Industry Trad 30m El Rito Average Wed 3rd May 2006
We were greeted by a small rattlesnake at the start of the climb. Fritz moved him and we climbed. I managed to skirt the overhang on lead, but Fritz made it over on second.

 
5.8 West Face - Left Side Trad 79m Sandia Mountain Good Sat 28th Jun 2008
Fritz led the hard lead. I led the easy one. There are almost 3 5.8 cruxes (if that's possible).

 
5.8 Serendipity Trad 20m Tres Piedras Very Good Wed 4th Aug 2010
First time up it started raining, climbed back down, waited 'till it dried, then finished climb.

 
5.8 Baby Cakes Trad 27m Tres Piedras Very Good Sun 23rd Oct 2011
Good climb, but messed up my ankle on it.

 
5.8 No Name Crack - with Fritz Trad 18m Diablo Canyon Very Good Thu 18th Oct 2012
I liked the variety of moves I had to use in this climb. The offwidth portion is enjoyable too.

 
5.8 Estrellita Trad 30m Sandia Mountain Mega Classic Wed 2nd Aug 2006
Great climb, yahoo! Just what i needed to get me out of a funk i was in. No big muscle moves needed.

 
5.7 Redeemer (5.7 variation) Trad 91m Sandia Mountain Don't Bother Wed 10th May 2006
Route alternates between loose, blocky stuff and good rock.

 
5.7 Minion Trad 27m Diablo Canyon Average Sun 9th Oct 2011
Up nose to chains. Top a bit ledgey.

 
5.7 unknown - with Fritz Trad 12m Dead Cholla Wall Average Wed 20th Aug 2014
5.7 Dirty Diagnonal Trad 34m Tres Piedras Good Wed 5th Sep 2007
Mostly fun face climbing, some on chickenheads. It thunderstormed twice. We climbed before storms, subsequent climb was between storms.

 
5.7 Fun - with Fritz Mixed trad 12m, 2 Dead Cholla Wall Good Sat 6th Sep 2014
5.7 Summer Dreams Trad 29m Tres Piedras Very Good Sat 25th Oct 2008
Warm day, but we climbed on the north side of Mosaic. Doh! It was kinda cold, guess why they call it summer dreams. Nice climb 5.7+ friction to crack to boilerplate. A couple tricams between 1.5 and 4.0 made protecting the climb easy.

 
5.7 The Bulge Trad 91m Boulder Very Good Mon 5th Oct 1964
Had to put in pro and pull it out, because my second (who shall remain nameless) pulled out almost none. At the time I climbed it there was a rotten flake at the crux. It may be gone now. Then the climb seemed a lot easier than 5.7

 
5.6 Unknown on South Face Trad 70m Sandia Mountain Average Tue 24th Aug 2004
When Fritz & I climbed this we thought it was a different climb. We don't know if it was climbed before. I would give the crux a 5.6. The rest of the climb is only 5.4 - 5.5.

 
5.6 Northwest Face Trad 34m Sandia Mountain Average Tue 24th Jul 2007
Toward the top I got ancy about making the moves I wanted (layback to mantle), because the ton and a half rock I wanted to use moves. So I went up a rather nasty little chimney (pumpy 5.7-5.7+).

 
5.6 Chili Verde Trad 85m El Rito Good Aug 1993
led 3x in '04 also '92 or'93

 
5.6 Lost Line Trad 180m Sandia Mountain Good Sun 30th Sep 2007
The standard ascent route starts up a chimney with some loose 20 to 40 pound boulders you need to hang on to climb it, so I moved 15' around the corner up a face (Fritz pointed out) which still had some, much more manageable loose rocks, for the first pitch. The rest was on the standard route.

 
5.6 Diritissima Trad 120m Old Main Good Sat 8th Jun 1968
Four leads, I led one. It was onsight for me but not Ray. Ray Jacquot, Bob Frisby, an englishman and I did it.

 
5.6 Packrat Dihedral Trad 79m El Rito Good 1992
'92 + '93. Route in guidebook is average, well above average if you go straight up on face for second lead. Upper part of first lead is too easy; could climb on "arete" 2' right of dihedral to keep this section interesting.

 
5.6 Guillotine Trad 90m El Rito Good Tue 19th Oct 2004
bypassed the crux move on my lead (a woose-out)

 
5.6 Lost Line Variation (Lost Line) Trad 180m Sandia Mountain Very Good Wed 13th Jun 2007
We started about 100' to the right of Lost Line. The route joins Lost Line at the second belay point. Top half of the Third pitch features a fun arete (total 5 pitches). Slings at first belay point indicate it's been climbed often on.

 
5.6 Lost Ledge Trad 52m Sandia Mountain Very Good Wed 21st Sep 2005
Rock holds pro really well and first lead is continually good climbing.

 
5.6 Batman And Robin Trad 79m Rocky Mountain National Park Classic Wed 1st Jul 1992
Lotsa fun on fantastic rock. Climbed w/ Mike Olsen. Bypassed crux.

 
5.5 West Face Traverse Trad 91m Sandia Mountain Average Sat 28th Jun 2008
First pitch a bit ledgy.

 
5.5 Butler Route Trad 12m Los Alamos Good Sun 4th Sep 2005
My first lead after having foot surgery. Went well.

 
5.5 Northwest Ridge Trad 490m Sandia Mountain Good Tue 28th Jun 2005
It was a good exercise in route finding, glorious views. It's great to sit at belay and watch people way below walking down a path between your toes. Actually just 5 1/2 leads of fifth class. The rest is fourth and third

 
5.5 Flake 'n Bake Trad 37m Sandia Mountain Good Sat 11th Oct 2008
Weird weather; high winds, heavy clouds, scud, spotty rain;so we decided to do something easy.

 
5.5 Gnarly Trad 79m El Rito Very Good Tue 29th Jun 2004
led 3 variations '92 and '04; most or all exited left of actual route.

 
5.4 El Faralito Trad 85m El Rito Average Tue 6th Jul 2004
in '04 off route, in '93 on route, I think.

 
5.4 Commie Pinkos Trad 49m El Rito Average Tue 13th Jul 2004
second pitch 1, led pitch 2

 
5.8 Northeast Corner Trad 34m Sandia Mountain Good Wed 1st Aug 2007
Listed in Hill's Guide to the Sandias as 5.6, actually 5.8. Big crack swallows up #3.5 Camalots. We had to reuse the sameone three times on the climb. Took a tumble near the top, made it on next try. Real pumpy. We had to climb, set pro, go down and rest, switch leads, climb further, set pro go down and rest, etc.

 
5.8 Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre Mixed trad 100m, 1 The Legs Very Good Sun 25th Sep 2011
We did it as two pitches. Fritz did the first; I did the second, which had a nice airy feel.

 
5.7 Almost Overlooked Trad 55m Sandia Mountain Good Wed 28th Sep 2005
Started out climbing in wrong spoot, but Fritz soon figured it out and I started out again on route. Good climb, but 5.7 not sustained, just at three short sections. Afterward we started something else and got rained out.

 
5.7 North Ridge Trad 61m Sandia Mountain Good Wed 20th Jun 2007
I led the first, very fun, marginally offwidth crack and Fritz led the second offwidth.

 
5.7 Ramp Trad 170m Sandia Mountain Good Sun 5th Sep 2004
Swapped leads. Did a short leader fall on first pitch.

 
5.6 Cat in the Hat Trad 210m Red Rock Classic Mon 23rd Apr 2012
Led first and fourth pitches. Thouroughly enjoyable.

 
5.9 Knight Moves Trad 12m Sangre de Cristo Mountains Good Wed 15th Jul 2009
Climb really like Knight Moves; up over, up back and over up. Need another climb on this crag for a checkmate. Nice well protected route using up to number 2 Camalots.

 
5.9 Ducktail Elvis Trad 15m Tres Piedras Good Thu 21st Jun 2012
5.9 at crux only.

 
5.9 Succubus - with Martin Jensen Trad 15m Cerrillos Very Good Sun 1st May 2016
FFA.

 
5.9 Succubus - with Fritz Devendorf Trad 15m Cerrillos Very Good Tue 10th May 2016
5.8 Kermit the Frog Trad 73m Sandia Mountain Average Tue 18th Jul 2006
FFA. Takes off of Miss Piggy. Would be better (good) if someone would ascend it with a wire brush (for the lichens) and small plant trimmers.

 
5.8 Serpentine Crack Trad 29m Tres Piedras Average Sun 17th Oct 2010
Only about 10' of the climb is 5.8. Climbed with Fritz.

 
5.8 Sea Turtle Trad 18m Las Conchas Average Wed 19th Oct 2011
It's been awhile since I did an offwidth.

 
5.8 Oslands Delight Trad 18m Laramie Good Tue 18th May 1965
Date approximate.

 
5.8 Luna de Cazadores Trad 23m Sangre de Cristo Mountains Good Wed 24th Oct 2007
The crux was exposed, with balance, and the way I did it, a muscley dynamic move. Pro at the crux is a little sketchy. Hesitant about leading it. We were first up(Fun afternoon)

 
5.7 Beer Mug Direct Trad 90m Beer Mug Mountain Good Thu 1st Sep 1966
FFA. Climbed with Chuck Shapp from Ft. Collins. We climbed it with a 120' rope taking 3 leads, so if climbed now with a 40 meter rope it could be done in 2 leads. The mountain is near Hanna Wyoming. The rancher there threatened to shoot us. It's been along time. He's probably dead now. Climb on sandstone. Climbed in 1965. Date screen does not go back that far.

 
5.7 Elysian Fields Mixed trad 18m, 1 Diablo Canyon Good Sun 8th Nov 2009
Aah! In the shade when I climbed it. So much cooler than Hellboy.

 
5.7 Twelfth of Never - with Fritz Trad 12m Padre Springs Canyon Good Sat 29th Sep 2012
I first planned to climb about 6 to 10 feet to the right on the bulge of the buttress, but questioned the rock quality there. Twelfth of Never has good rock, but we didn't clean a few loose rocks on nearby ledges.

 
5.7 Maze Trad 67m Sangre de Cristo Mountains Very Good Tue 21st Sep 2004
FFA. Craig by 11th stream crossing. Both pitches are ramps. Second turns into face. Some offbalance moves, last of which turns into muscle moves on face. Flip-flops for crossing stream come in handy.

 
5.7 Osa Trad 35m Sandia Mountain Classic Wed 21st Sep 2005
Cool moves; nice exposure

 
5.7 The Big "E" Trad 80m El Rito Classic Mon 18th Apr 2005
Cool climb. You can make nice moves on face and face with crack features.

 
5.7 Senile Superhero Trad 100m El Rito Classic Wed 9th May 2012
FFA. Wow. I discovered this one purely by accident; luckily got off route on the Guillotine. The start of the second pitch has a lot of character. Bring a little sling material and a 3 or 3.5 cam for the second belay spot (it's an adiquite belay only).

 
5.6 Southeast Buttress Trad 180m Navajolands Average Sun 24th Nov 1963
FFA. Plenty of rotten basalt. I rapidly learned how to dodge falling rocks. One, about the size of a baseball cracked the helmet liner I was using for a climbing helmet. Because of emissions from coal fired plants in the area the quality of the rock now is probably worse. Can't climb on it anyhow now because the Navajos don't want you on this, one of thier sacred mountains.

 
5.5 Mad Hatter's Tea Party Trad 140m San Juan Basin Volcanic Necks Good Wed 17th May 2006
FFA. I think this is the first technical climb on Cabizon. A few 5.5 moves, a lot of consistant 5.3-5.4. We hope to do some more there. Camping out the night before was great

 
5.6 Juniper Buttress Trad 84m El Rito Good Sun 27th May 2012
Was gonna lead Juniper Overhang, but wussed out.

 
5.6 Perdernal Cracks Trad 30m El Rito Very Good Tue 17th Aug 2004
So good I did it twice in one day, one lead, one second.

 
5.5 Dos Tipos Viejos Trad 26m Sangre de Cristo Mountains Don't Bother Wed 6th Aug 1997
Chimney, a bit brushy and a bit dirty.

 
5.4 Platte River Pillar Trad 21m Fremont Canyon Classic Thu 15th Jun 1967
FFA. In gorge near bridge (visible from same) going to Pathfinder. Rappel from big tree near pillar, climb pillar, do a Tyrolean traverse back to tree. Look down in middle of traverse, awesome~!

 
5.3 Trotsky's Buttress Trad 37m El Rito Crap Wed 1st Sep 1993
FFA. Left of Commie Pinkos, 2 leads, over series of ledges

 
5.3 The Ledges Trad 240m Medicine Bow Diamond Good Fri 1st Oct 1965
Did Ledges again with Rex Hoff and 2 others. Led first 3 or 4 leads. It got terribly cold and we got back too late to get any picnic lunch food.

 
5.3 The Cruser Trad 94m El Rito Good Fri 1st Jul 1994
FFA. Diag. right to hollow on Juniper Direct (belay - when we climbed it there was loose rock over belay ). Diag. rt. past tree to second tree. Diag. rt to top.

 
5.8 Belly Up - with Fritz Devendorf Trad 14m Los Alamos Good Thu 1st May 2014
Did a slight variation that turned out to be harder than the route itself.

 
5.8 Original Open Book - with Fritz Devendorf Trad 12m Los Alamos Good Wed 23rd Aug 2017
5.7 Look Ma, No Friends Trad 17m Tres Piedras Thu 21st Jun 2012
Good, but over too soon.

 
5.7 Bypass Trad 14m Sangre de Cristo Mountains Good Sun 28th Aug 2011
Better than it looks. Finished on lumpy face to right.

 
5.7 Rusty P - with Fritz Devendorf Trad 27m Tres Piedras Good Tue 27th Oct 2015
5.7 The Trough Trad 30m Diablo Canyon Good Sat 20th Oct 2012
5.6 Little Mutt - with Fritz Devendorf, , Hannah Frizzell and Ed Cox Trad 21m Sandia Mountain Good Mon 4th Jun 2018
5.6 Porky's Bad Luck - with Daniel Lowrey Trad 12m Los Alamos Good Sat 16th May 2020
Aptly named. In and out of funny chimney (need to be skinny to get out of chimney) onto face

 
5.7 5.6/7 Tony's Tango - with Gunther Worrlein Unknown 30m Taylor Canyon Very Good Sat 4th Jun 2016
5.7 5.6/7 The Jackal - with Gunther Worrlein Unknown 30m Taylor Canyon Very Good Sat 4th Jun 2016
5.8 5.6 Moon over Belen Trad 12m Las Conchas Classic Sun 5th Jun 2011
Great little climb. Did I do this one before?

 
5.3 Standard East Face - with Michael Olsen
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Trad 240m Boulder Classic 1990
Led first 6 pitches, had climbed all 8 pitches on October 11, 1964

 
5.10a unnamed 5.10a Trad 21m Tres Piedras Good Sun 14th Aug 2011
Fritz found this route, but I'm sure someone has climbed it before us. The 5.10 part is only about 2 moves at the bottom. the rest is easier.

 
5.9 Road Rage Trad 14m Sangre de Cristo Mountains Good Sun 28th Aug 2011
Oops! Good finger hold on crux careened off into space. I just turned a 5.9 climb into a 5.9+. But, I hand traversed left 5 or 6 feet, went up and back on route. It's fun doing it that way.

 
5.9 unknown Trad 30m Sandia Mountain Very Good Wed 13th Oct 2010
A real mental workout.

 
5.9 North Chimney - with Morgan Lauery Trad 120m Castle Valley Very Good Mon 30th Sep 2013
It's a good route with lots of sustained 5.8 climbing, but I probably wouldn't want to lead it through the crux.

 
5.8 Old Sling - with Joe Root, Hannah Frizzel Trad 27m Diablo Canyon Good Sat 3rd Nov 2018
5.8 The Gymnist - with Linh and Alan Wilkerson, R Trad 14m Los Alamos Very Good Sat 15th Apr 2017
The route is sandbagged a bit. Should be 5.9+.

 
5.7 Crystal Staircase - with Gunther Worrlein Trad 26m Taylor Canyon Good Sat 4th Jun 2016
5.7 Car Killer Crack - with Gunther Worrlein Trad 29m Spring Creek Good Sun 5th Jun 2016
5.6 Lolita - with Fritz Devendorf, Hannah Frizzell and Ed Cox Mixed trad 21m, 3 Sandia Mountain Good Mon 4th Jun 2018
5.5 Bramble Scramble Trad 18m Fort Collins Average Thu 10th Oct 1963
Did trad lead but second pulled all pitons out with fingers, meaning I had no protection. This means it was a de-facto free solo (opinion of my climbing friends).

 
5.9 Flare - with Norbert Trad 14m Los Alamos Good Tue 9th Sep 2014
I really had to work on this one. Got partway up the flare and moved right with some creative moves, then back into the route.

 
5.9 Twin Cracks - with Norbert Trad 20m Los Alamos Very Good Tue 9th Sep 2014
The bottom was the hardest.

 
5.7 Beginner's 5.7 - with Norbert Trad 12m Los Alamos Good Tue 9th Sep 2014
Wanted to lead it, but only brought some draws and tricams.

 
5.10b Lacto Mangulation - with Abe, Fritz and Carl Mixed trad 20m, 4 Potash Road Very Good Mon 22nd Apr 2013
My first really tough route of the day. The 5.10 is only for a move or two.

 
Stolen Chimney - with Abe Mixed trad 95m, 12 Fisher Towers Mega Classic Tue 23rd Apr 2013
Like almost everyone else I did this as a 5.8 A0 climb. This was the neatest climb I did in my life! Two days later I would have gleefully done it again.

 
5.9 Lefty Trad 18m Tres Piedras Average Wed 26th Sep 2007
Led most of it, but traded off and Fritz led the crux, so he gets lead credit. Route starts to the left of Chickenshit at a tree following cracks and depressions under a bulge at one's left and arcing across the top of a friction face to end at the top of Chickenshit. No record of this route, but someone probably did it as it is in an area with some 5.10's and 5.11's.

 
5.9 Unnamed 3 Trad 14m Tres Piedras Very Good Sat 6th Aug 2011
Got up it twice. Yay.

 
5.9 Bloody Elbows - with Abe Trad 26m Colorado River Road Very Good Wed 24th Apr 2013
Toughest crack climb I've done to date.

 
5.8 Unkown (next to Ow Now) Trad 11m Las Conchas Average Wed 24th May 2006
Kind of a grunt for a short climb. Did twice.

 
5.8 unnamed Trad 73m Sandia Mountain Average Sun 26th Aug 2007
Don't know if it's been climbed before; probably has. About 20+ feet left of West Face direct. Crack curves to the right and edges are roundded.

 
5.8 Turkey Sandwich Trad 17m Las Conchas Average Wed 22nd Jun 2011
They must call it Turkey Sandwich cause If you get jammed in the offwidth you're the turkey in the sandwich. I mostly avoided this.

 
5.8 Dung Alley Trad 29m Tres Piedras Good Sat 25th Oct 2008
Almost all of the climb is offsize. Requires Number 5 and 6 Camalots to protect. We don't have any that big, so we had to toprope it. Bypassed the crux on 5.8 friction.

 
5.8 Techo al Derecho Trad 24m El Rito Good Tue 19th Oct 2004
5.8 Bats in the Belfry Trad 43m Tres Piedras Good Thu 26th Aug 2010
I had a bit of trouble in the crux zone, where the left wall and the right face roll into a crack. Done w/Fritz leading.

 
5.8 Cold Day in Hell Trad 27m Diablo Canyon Good Sun 9th Oct 2011
Clean shot up depression in fluting to top. Climbing today turned into social networking with people hiking by. We top roped a 9 year old up a nearby 5.7 (his first on real rock).

 
5.8 Old Mossy Trad 15m Sangre de Cristo Mountains Good Sun 18th Oct 2009
Fritz did it first, so he gets the first ascent.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 142 ascents.

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