Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.8 |
★ Old Sling
![]() | 27m | Diablo Canyon | Don't Bother | Tue 28th Oct 2008 | |||
Actually the ramp was kinda fun; lotsa exposure. This is how we got to the chains at the top of Protein Supplement and Sunbaked.
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5.8 |
Shoes for Industry
![]() | 30m | El Rito | Average | Wed 3rd May 2006 | |||
We were greeted by a small rattlesnake at the start of the climb. Fritz moved him and we climbed. I managed to skirt the overhang on lead, but Fritz made it over on second.
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5.8 |
★ West Face - Left Side
![]() | 79m | Sandia Mountain | ★ Good | Sat 28th Jun 2008 | |||
Fritz led the hard lead. I led the easy one. There are almost 3 5.8 cruxes (if that's possible).
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5.8 |
★★ Serendipity
![]() | 20m | Tres Piedras | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Aug 2010 | |||
First time up it started raining, climbed back down, waited 'till it dried, then finished climb.
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5.8 |
★★ Baby Cakes
![]() | 27m | Tres Piedras | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Oct 2011 | |||
Good climb, but messed up my ankle on it.
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5.8 |
★★ No Name Crack
![]() | 18m | Diablo Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Thu 18th Oct 2012 | |||
I liked the variety of moves I had to use in this climb. The offwidth portion is enjoyable too.
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5.8 |
★★★ Estrellita
![]() | 30m | Sandia Mountain | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 2nd Aug 2006 | |||
Great climb, yahoo! Just what i needed to get me out of a funk i was in. No big muscle moves needed.
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5.7 |
Redeemer (5.7 variation)
![]() | 91m | Sandia Mountain | Don't Bother | Wed 10th May 2006 | |||
Route alternates between loose, blocky stuff and good rock.
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5.7 |
★ Minion
![]() | 27m | Diablo Canyon | Average | Sun 9th Oct 2011 | |||
Up nose to chains. Top a bit ledgey.
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5.7 |
★ unknown
![]() | 12m | Dead Cholla Wall | Average | Wed 20th Aug 2014 | |||
5.7 |
★ Dirty Diagnonal
![]() | 34m | Tres Piedras | ★ Good | Wed 5th Sep 2007 | |||
Mostly fun face climbing, some on chickenheads. It thunderstormed twice. We climbed before storms, subsequent climb was between storms.
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5.7 |
★ Fun
![]() | 12m, 2 | Dead Cholla Wall | ★ Good | Sat 6th Sep 2014 | |||
5.7 |
★★ Summer Dreams
![]() | 29m | Tres Piedras | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Oct 2008 | |||
Warm day, but we climbed on the north side of Mosaic. Doh! It was kinda cold, guess why they call it summer dreams. Nice climb 5.7+ friction to crack to boilerplate. A couple tricams between 1.5 and 4.0 made protecting the climb easy.
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5.7 |
★★ The Bulge
![]() | 91m | Boulder | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Oct 1964 | |||
Had to put in pro and pull it out, because my second (who shall remain nameless) pulled out almost none. At the time I climbed it there was a rotten flake at the crux. It may be gone now. Then the climb seemed a lot easier than 5.7
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5.6 |
Unknown on South Face
![]() | 70m | Sandia Mountain | Average | Tue 24th Aug 2004 | |||
When Fritz & I climbed this we thought it was a different climb. We don't know if it was climbed before. I would give the crux a 5.6. The rest of the climb is only 5.4 - 5.5.
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5.6 |
Northwest Face
![]() | 34m | Sandia Mountain | Average | Tue 24th Jul 2007 | |||
Toward the top I got ancy about making the moves I wanted (layback to mantle), because the ton and a half rock I wanted to use moves. So I went up a rather nasty little chimney (pumpy 5.7-5.7+).
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5.6 |
★ Chili Verde
![]() | 85m | El Rito | ★ Good | Aug 1993 | |||
led 3x in '04 also '92 or'93
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5.6 |
★★ Lost Line
![]() | 180m | Sandia Mountain | ★ Good | Sun 30th Sep 2007 | |||
The standard ascent route starts up a chimney with some loose 20 to 40 pound boulders you need to hang on to climb it, so I moved 15' around the corner up a face (Fritz pointed out) which still had some, much more manageable loose rocks, for the first pitch. The rest was on the standard route.
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5.6 |
★★ Diritissima
![]() | 120m | Old Main | ★ Good | Sat 8th Jun 1968 | |||
Four leads, I led one. It was onsight for me but not Ray. Ray Jacquot, Bob Frisby, an englishman and I did it.
|
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5.6 |
★★ Packrat Dihedral
![]() | 79m | El Rito | ★ Good | 1992 | |||
'92 + '93. Route in guidebook is average, well above average if you go straight up on face for second lead. Upper part of first lead is too easy; could climb on "arete" 2' right of dihedral to keep this section interesting.
|
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5.6 |
★ Guillotine
![]() | 90m | El Rito | ★ Good | Tue 19th Oct 2004 | |||
bypassed the crux move on my lead (a woose-out)
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5.6 |
★★ Lost Line Variation (Lost Line)
![]() | 180m | Sandia Mountain | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Jun 2007 | |||
We started about 100' to the right of Lost Line. The route joins Lost Line at the second belay point. Top half of the Third pitch features a fun arete (total 5 pitches). Slings at first belay point indicate it's been climbed often on.
|
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5.6 |
★★ Lost Ledge
![]() | 52m | Sandia Mountain | ★★ Very Good | Wed 21st Sep 2005 | |||
Rock holds pro really well and first lead is continually good climbing.
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5.6 |
★★ Batman And Robin
![]() | 79m | Rocky Mountain National Park | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Jul 1992 | |||
Lotsa fun on fantastic rock. Climbed w/ Mike Olsen. Bypassed crux.
|
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5.5 |
★★ West Face Traverse
![]() | 91m | Sandia Mountain | Average | Sat 28th Jun 2008 | |||
First pitch a bit ledgy.
|
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5.5 |
★★ Butler Route
![]() | 12m | Los Alamos | ★ Good | Sun 4th Sep 2005 | |||
My first lead after having foot surgery. Went well.
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5.5 |
★★ Northwest Ridge
![]() | 490m | Sandia Mountain | ★ Good | Tue 28th Jun 2005 | |||
It was a good exercise in route finding, glorious views. It's great to sit at belay and watch people way below walking down a path between your toes. Actually just 5 1/2 leads of fifth class. The rest is fourth and third
|
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5.5 |
★★ Flake 'n Bake
![]() | 37m | Sandia Mountain | ★ Good | Sat 11th Oct 2008 | |||
Weird weather; high winds, heavy clouds, scud, spotty rain;so we decided to do something easy.
|
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5.5 |
★ Gnarly
![]() | 79m | El Rito | ★★ Very Good | Tue 29th Jun 2004 | |||
led 3 variations '92 and '04; most or all exited left of actual route.
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5.4 |
El Faralito
![]() | 85m | El Rito | Average | Tue 6th Jul 2004 | |||
in '04 off route, in '93 on route, I think.
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5.4 |
Commie Pinkos
![]() | 49m | El Rito | Average | Tue 13th Jul 2004 | |||
second pitch 1, led pitch 2
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5.8 |
★★ Northeast Corner
![]() | 34m | Sandia Mountain | ★ Good | Wed 1st Aug 2007 | |||
Listed in Hill's Guide to the Sandias as 5.6, actually 5.8. Big crack swallows up #3.5 Camalots. We had to reuse the sameone three times on the climb. Took a tumble near the top, made it on next try. Real pumpy. We had to climb, set pro, go down and rest, switch leads, climb further, set pro go down and rest, etc.
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5.8 |
★★ Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre
![]() | 100m, 1 | The Legs | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Sep 2011 | |||
We did it as two pitches. Fritz did the first; I did the second, which had a nice airy feel.
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5.7 |
★ Almost Overlooked
![]() | 55m | Sandia Mountain | ★ Good | Wed 28th Sep 2005 | |||
Started out climbing in wrong spoot, but Fritz soon figured it out and I started out again on route. Good climb, but 5.7 not sustained, just at three short sections. Afterward we started something else and got rained out.
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5.7 |
★ North Ridge
![]() | 61m | Sandia Mountain | ★ Good | Wed 20th Jun 2007 | |||
I led the first, very fun, marginally offwidth crack and Fritz led the second offwidth.
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5.7 |
★ Ramp
![]() | 170m | Sandia Mountain | ★ Good | Sun 5th Sep 2004 | |||
Swapped leads. Did a short leader fall on first pitch.
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5.6 |
★★★ Cat in the Hat
![]() | 210m | Red Rock | ★★★ Classic | Mon 23rd Apr 2012 | |||
Led first and fourth pitches. Thouroughly enjoyable.
|
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5.9 |
FA
★★ Knight Moves
![]() | 12m | Sangre de Cristo Mountains | ★ Good | Wed 15th Jul 2009 | |||
Climb really like Knight Moves; up over, up back and over up. Need another climb on this crag for a checkmate. Nice well protected route using up to number 2 Camalots.
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5.9 |
FA
★★ Ducktail Elvis
![]() | 15m | Tres Piedras | ★ Good | Thu 21st Jun 2012 | |||
5.9 at crux only.
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5.9 |
FA
★★ Succubus
![]() | 15m | Cerrillos | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st May 2016 | |||
FFA.
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5.9 |
FA
★★ Succubus
![]() | 15m | Cerrillos | ★★ Very Good | Tue 10th May 2016 | |||
5.8 |
FA
Kermit the Frog
![]() | 73m | Sandia Mountain | Average | Tue 18th Jul 2006 | |||
FFA. Takes off of Miss Piggy. Would be better (good) if someone would ascend it with a wire brush (for the lichens) and small plant trimmers.
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5.8 |
★ Serpentine Crack
![]() | 29m | Tres Piedras | Average | Sun 17th Oct 2010 | |||
Only about 10' of the climb is 5.8. Climbed with Fritz.
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5.8 |
FA
Sea Turtle
![]() | 18m | Las Conchas | Average | Wed 19th Oct 2011 | |||
It's been awhile since I did an offwidth.
|
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5.8 |
FA
★★ Oslands Delight
![]() | 18m | Laramie | ★ Good | Tue 18th May 1965 | |||
Date approximate.
|
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5.8 |
FA
★★ Luna de Cazadores
![]() | 23m | Sangre de Cristo Mountains | ★ Good | Wed 24th Oct 2007 | |||
The crux was exposed, with balance, and the way I did it, a muscley dynamic move. Pro at the crux is a little sketchy. Hesitant about leading it. We were first up(Fun afternoon)
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5.7 |
FA
★ Beer Mug Direct
![]() | 90m | Beer Mug Mountain | ★ Good | Thu 1st Sep 1966 | |||
FFA. Climbed with Chuck Shapp from Ft. Collins. We climbed it with a 120' rope taking 3 leads, so if climbed now with a 40 meter rope it could be done in 2 leads. The mountain is near Hanna Wyoming. The rancher there threatened to shoot us. It's been along time. He's probably dead now. Climb on sandstone. Climbed in 1965. Date screen does not go back that far.
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5.7 |
★ Elysian Fields
![]() | 18m, 1 | Diablo Canyon | ★ Good | Sun 8th Nov 2009 | |||
Aah! In the shade when I climbed it. So much cooler than Hellboy.
|
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5.7 |
FA
★★ Twelfth of Never
![]() | 12m | Padre Springs Canyon | ★ Good | Sat 29th Sep 2012 | |||
I first planned to climb about 6 to 10 feet to the right on the bulge of the buttress, but questioned the rock quality there. Twelfth of Never has good rock, but we didn't clean a few loose rocks on nearby ledges.
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5.7 |
FA
★★ Maze
![]() | 67m | Sangre de Cristo Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st Sep 2004 | |||
FFA. Craig by 11th stream crossing. Both pitches are ramps. Second turns into face. Some offbalance moves, last of which turns into muscle moves on face. Flip-flops for crossing stream come in handy.
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5.7 |
FA
★★★ Osa
![]() | 35m | Sandia Mountain | ★★★ Classic | Wed 21st Sep 2005 | |||
Cool moves; nice exposure
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5.7 |
★★ The Big "E"
![]() | 80m | El Rito | ★★★ Classic | Mon 18th Apr 2005 | |||
Cool climb. You can make nice moves on face and face with crack features.
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5.7 |
FA
★★★ Senile Superhero
![]() | 100m | El Rito | ★★★ Classic | Wed 9th May 2012 | |||
FFA. Wow. I discovered this one purely by accident; luckily got off route on the Guillotine. The start of the second pitch has a lot of character. Bring a little sling material and a 3 or 3.5 cam for the second belay spot (it's an adiquite belay only).
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5.6 |
FA
Southeast Buttress
![]() | 180m | Navajolands | Average | Sun 24th Nov 1963 | |||
FFA. Plenty of rotten basalt. I rapidly learned how to dodge falling rocks. One, about the size of a baseball cracked the helmet liner I was using for a climbing helmet. Because of emissions from coal fired plants in the area the quality of the rock now is probably worse. Can't climb on it anyhow now because the Navajos don't want you on this, one of thier sacred mountains.
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5.5 |
FA
★ Mad Hatter's Tea Party
![]() | 140m | San Juan Basin Volcanic Necks | ★ Good | Wed 17th May 2006 | |||
FFA. I think this is the first technical climb on Cabizon. A few 5.5 moves, a lot of consistant 5.3-5.4. We hope to do some more there. Camping out the night before was great
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5.6 |
★ Juniper Buttress
![]() | 84m | El Rito | ★ Good | Sun 27th May 2012 | |||
Was gonna lead Juniper Overhang, but wussed out.
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5.6 |
★ Perdernal Cracks
![]() | 30m | El Rito | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Aug 2004 | |||
So good I did it twice in one day, one lead, one second.
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5.5 |
FA
Dos Tipos Viejos
![]() | 26m | Sangre de Cristo Mountains | Don't Bother | Wed 6th Aug 1997 | |||
Chimney, a bit brushy and a bit dirty.
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5.4 |
FA
★★★ Platte River Pillar
![]() | 21m | Fremont Canyon | ★★★ Classic | Thu 15th Jun 1967 | |||
FFA. In gorge near bridge (visible from same) going to Pathfinder. Rappel from big tree near pillar, climb pillar, do a Tyrolean traverse back to tree. Look down in middle of traverse, awesome~!
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5.3 |
FA
Trotsky's Buttress
![]() | 37m | El Rito | Crap | Wed 1st Sep 1993 | |||
FFA. Left of Commie Pinkos, 2 leads, over series of ledges
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5.3 |
★★ The Ledges
![]() | 240m | Medicine Bow Diamond | ★ Good | Fri 1st Oct 1965 | |||
Did Ledges again with Rex Hoff and 2 others. Led first 3 or 4 leads. It got terribly cold and we got back too late to get any picnic lunch food.
|
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5.3 |
FA
★★ The Cruser
![]() | 94m | El Rito | ★ Good | Fri 1st Jul 1994 | |||
FFA. Diag. right to hollow on Juniper Direct (belay - when we climbed it there was loose rock over belay ). Diag. rt. past tree to second tree. Diag. rt to top.
|
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5.8 |
★ Belly Up
![]() | 14m | Los Alamos | ★ Good | Thu 1st May 2014 | |||
Did a slight variation that turned out to be harder than the route itself.
|
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5.8 |
★ Original Open Book
![]() | 12m | Los Alamos | ★ Good | Wed 23rd Aug 2017 | |||
5.7 |
★ Look Ma, No Friends
![]() | 17m | Tres Piedras | Thu 21st Jun 2012 | ||||
Good, but over too soon.
|
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5.7 |
★ Bypass
![]() | 14m | Sangre de Cristo Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 28th Aug 2011 | |||
Better than it looks. Finished on lumpy face to right.
|
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5.7 |
★ Rusty P
![]() | 27m | Tres Piedras | ★ Good | Tue 27th Oct 2015 | |||
5.7 |
★ The Trough
![]() | 30m | Diablo Canyon | ★ Good | Sat 20th Oct 2012 | |||
5.6 |
★ Little Mutt
![]() | 21m | Sandia Mountain | ★ Good | Mon 4th Jun 2018 | |||
5.6 |
★★ Porky's Bad Luck
![]() | 12m | Los Alamos | ★ Good | Sat 16th May 2020 | |||
Aptly named. In and out of funny chimney (need to be skinny to get out of chimney) onto face
|
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5.7 5.6/7 |
★★ Tony's Tango
![]() | 30m | Taylor Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Jun 2016 | |||
5.7 5.6/7 |
★ The Jackal
![]() | 30m | Taylor Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Jun 2016 | |||
5.8 5.6 |
★ Moon over Belen
![]() | 12m | Las Conchas | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th Jun 2011 | |||
Great little climb. Did I do this one before?
|
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5.3 |
★★★ Standard East Face
![]()
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
| 240m | Boulder | ★★★ Classic | 1990 | |||
Led first 6 pitches, had climbed all 8 pitches on October 11, 1964
|
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5.10a |
★★ unnamed 5.10a
![]() | 21m | Tres Piedras | ★ Good | Sun 14th Aug 2011 | |||
Fritz found this route, but I'm sure someone has climbed it before us. The 5.10 part is only about 2 moves at the bottom. the rest is easier.
|
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5.9 |
★ Road Rage
![]() | 14m | Sangre de Cristo Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 28th Aug 2011 | |||
Oops! Good finger hold on crux careened off into space. I just turned a 5.9 climb into a 5.9+. But, I hand traversed left 5 or 6 feet, went up and back on route. It's fun doing it that way.
|
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5.9 |
★★★ unknown
![]() | 30m | Sandia Mountain | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Oct 2010 | |||
A real mental workout.
|
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5.9 |
★★★ North Chimney
![]() | 120m | Castle Valley | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Sep 2013 | |||
It's a good route with lots of sustained 5.8 climbing, but I probably wouldn't want to lead it through the crux.
|
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5.8 |
★ Old Sling
![]() | 27m | Diablo Canyon | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Nov 2018 | |||
5.8 |
★★ The Gymnist
![]() | 14m | Los Alamos | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Apr 2017 | |||
The route is sandbagged a bit. Should be 5.9+.
|
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5.7 |
★★ Crystal Staircase
![]() | 26m | Taylor Canyon | ★ Good | Sat 4th Jun 2016 | |||
5.7 |
★★ Car Killer Crack
![]() | 29m | Spring Creek | ★ Good | Sun 5th Jun 2016 | |||
5.6 |
★ Lolita
![]() | 21m, 3 | Sandia Mountain | ★ Good | Mon 4th Jun 2018 | |||
5.5 |
★ Bramble Scramble
![]() | 18m | Fort Collins | Average | Thu 10th Oct 1963 | |||
Did trad lead but second pulled all pitons out with fingers, meaning I had no protection. This means it was a de-facto free solo (opinion of my climbing friends).
|
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5.9 |
★★ Flare
![]() | 14m | Los Alamos | ★ Good | Tue 9th Sep 2014 | |||
I really had to work on this one. Got partway up the flare and moved right with some creative moves, then back into the route.
|
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5.9 |
★★ Twin Cracks
![]() | 20m | Los Alamos | ★★ Very Good | Tue 9th Sep 2014 | |||
The bottom was the hardest.
|
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5.7 |
★ Beginner's 5.7
![]() | 12m | Los Alamos | ★ Good | Tue 9th Sep 2014 | |||
Wanted to lead it, but only brought some draws and tricams.
|
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5.10b |
★★ Lacto Mangulation
![]() | 20m, 4 | Potash Road | ★★ Very Good | Mon 22nd Apr 2013 | |||
My first really tough route of the day. The 5.10 is only for a move or two.
|
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★★★ Stolen Chimney
![]() | 95m, 12 | Fisher Towers | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 23rd Apr 2013 | ||||
Like almost everyone else I did this as a 5.8 A0 climb. This was the neatest climb I did in my life! Two days later I would have gleefully done it again.
|
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5.9 |
★ Lefty
![]() | 18m | Tres Piedras | Average | Wed 26th Sep 2007 | |||
Led most of it, but traded off and Fritz led the crux, so he gets lead credit. Route starts to the left of Chickenshit at a tree following cracks and depressions under a bulge at one's left and arcing across the top of a friction face to end at the top of Chickenshit. No record of this route, but someone probably did it as it is in an area with some 5.10's and 5.11's.
|
||||||||
5.9 |
★★ Unnamed 3
![]() | 14m | Tres Piedras | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Aug 2011 | |||
Got up it twice. Yay.
|
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5.9 |
★★★ Bloody Elbows
![]() | 26m | Colorado River Road | ★★ Very Good | Wed 24th Apr 2013 | |||
Toughest crack climb I've done to date.
|
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5.8 |
★ Unkown (next to Ow Now)
![]() | 11m | Las Conchas | Average | Wed 24th May 2006 | |||
Kind of a grunt for a short climb. Did twice.
|
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5.8 |
★ unnamed
![]() | 73m | Sandia Mountain | Average | Sun 26th Aug 2007 | |||
Don't know if it's been climbed before; probably has. About 20+ feet left of West Face direct. Crack curves to the right and edges are roundded.
|
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5.8 |
Turkey Sandwich
![]() | 17m | Las Conchas | Average | Wed 22nd Jun 2011 | |||
They must call it Turkey Sandwich cause If you get jammed in the offwidth you're the turkey in the sandwich. I mostly avoided this.
|
||||||||
5.8 |
★ Dung Alley
![]() | 29m | Tres Piedras | ★ Good | Sat 25th Oct 2008 | |||
Almost all of the climb is offsize. Requires Number 5 and 6 Camalots to protect. We don't have any that big, so we had to toprope it. Bypassed the crux on 5.8 friction.
|
||||||||
5.8 |
★★ Techo al Derecho
![]() | 24m | El Rito | ★ Good | Tue 19th Oct 2004 | |||
5.8 |
★ Bats in the Belfry
![]() | 43m | Tres Piedras | ★ Good | Thu 26th Aug 2010 | |||
I had a bit of trouble in the crux zone, where the left wall and the right face roll into a crack. Done w/Fritz leading.
|
||||||||
5.8 |
★★ Cold Day in Hell
![]() | 27m | Diablo Canyon | ★ Good | Sun 9th Oct 2011 | |||
Clean shot up depression in fluting to top. Climbing today turned into social networking with people hiking by. We top roped a 9 year old up a nearby 5.7 (his first on real rock).
|
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5.8 |
★ Old Mossy
![]() | 15m | Sangre de Cristo Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 18th Oct 2009 | |||
Fritz did it first, so he gets the first ascent.
|