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Ascents in Lofoten by Philip C

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 238 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Date
Trad
7+/8- ★★★ La Vida Joika - with Pat Mixed trad 100m, 10 Lofoten ★★ Very Good Tue 25th Jul 2023
First 2 pitches were great, it was nice saving #4s for second half of the OW. The bolted last pitch was a bit gross. Recommend skipping that & rapping from P2

  
7 7 R ★★★ Korstoget - with Fanny, Ingrid V Mixed trad 390m, 3 Lofoten ★★ Very Good Tue 23rd Jul 2019
Some great climbing with one of Presten´s best pitches down low (P3). The runout pitches arn´t so bad. After the 6+ (P7), quality drops off quickly. Because of this, it´s quite common to traverse at Storhylla & finish up other lines

  
6 ★★★ Korstoget - with Andrea O
1 6 35 Trad
2 5 40 Trad
3 6 40 Trad
Mixed trad 120m, 3 Lofoten ★★★ Classic Fri 7th Jul 2023
Korstoget til Vestpillaren

  
7- ~6+ ★★★ Tapir - with Fanny Mixed trad 20m, 1 Lofoten ★★ Very Good Sat 15th Jun 2019
6+ ★★★ Englevinger - with Sofie Mixed trad 85m, 1 Lofoten ★★★ Mega Classic Tue 25th May 2021
There won´t be a line for this one but it´s 3 varied & high quality pitches. Deserves it´s Top50 guidebook tag

  
5 ★★★ Gollum Trad 110m Lofoten ★★★ Mega Classic Thu 17th Oct 2019
6+ ★★★ Vågarisset - with Alexander Trad 70m Lofoten ★★★ Mega Classic Wed 9th Jun 2021
Lives up to the hype. Heavy. Two 4s & 5s plus a sling is your rack for P2. Lower-off is now a nest of cord & tatt, awkwardly placed high on a flake. The well positioned bolts are missing hangers :((

  
4+ ★★ 1910 Ruta - with Dave, John, Nele, Deppa Trad 56m Lofoten Average Sun 29th Jul 2018
5- ★★★ Bare Blåbær - with Line Trad 250m Lofoten ★★★ Mega Classic Sun 19th May 2019
Linked pitches 1/2 & 3/4 with 70m rope

  
3 ★★ The Rock and Roll Ridge Trad Lofoten ★ Good Mon 6th Aug 2018
Deppa’s first trad climb plus some afternoon walks from camp.

  
4+ ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute Trad 110m Lofoten ★ Good Tue 30th Apr 2019
Annoying to pitch out but a fun short rope or solo

  
5 ★★ Living in Paradise - with Michael Oldroyd Trad 20m Lofoten ★ Good Wed 8th Aug 2018
Fun but forgettable.

  
5+ ★★★ Forsida - with Fanny Trad 120m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Mon 6th May 2019
Scenic, sunny & deluxe belay ledges. A great way to cruise up the goat

  
4+ ★★★ Nordryggen - with Michael Oldroyd Trad 510m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Tue 14th Aug 2018
Fantastic views. Pitched out as in guidebook but it´s mostly hiking with 2/3 short sections of easy climbing. Would short rope if doing again

  
6 ★★★ Gamle rev - with Innika Trad 110m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Thu 30th Jun 2022
5+ ★ Liten kuling - with Michael Oldroyd Trad 20m Lofoten Average Mon 20th Aug 2018
5+ ★★ Sterk kuling - with Michael Oldroyd Trad Lofoten Average Mon 20th Aug 2018
6 Sterk storm - with Michael Oldroyd Trad Lofoten Average Mon 20th Aug 2018
5+ ★★ Appelcake Arete - with Michael Oldroyd Trad 60m Lofoten ★ Good Tue 21st Aug 2018
5+ ★★ Lys og Skygge - with Michael Oldroyd Trad 60m Lofoten ★ Good Tue 21st Aug 2018
Impromtu waterfall ascent. Goodtimes

  
6 ★★★ Pizzatyven - with Michael Oldroyd Trad 100m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Tue 21st Aug 2018
5+ 5 ★ Queen of Rock 'n' Roll - with Michael Oldroyd Trad Lofoten ★ Good Wed 22nd Aug 2018
6 ~6- ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - with Johanne Regine Gustavsen, Sam Trad 95m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Mon 20th Jul 2020
P2/P3 can be linked by stretching a 60m. Easier than the neighbouring Gamle rev (perhaps easiest 6 in Lofoten?)

  
6- ★★★ Guns n' Roses - with Michael Oldroyd Trad 90m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Thu 23rd Aug 2018
6 ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Michael Oldroyd, Clara, Romane Trad 480m Lofoten ★★★ Mega Classic Tue 28th Aug 2018
Amazing route in a postcard setting

  
6 ★★★ Lundeklubben - with Vegard With Stennes Trad 90m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Fri 13th Nov 2020
This line is waaay hyped plus, roof/bulge pitch seeps & will more often than not, be the only wet section on the wall. Not even top 5 on the Festvåg cliffs

  
6- ★★★ Skiløperen - with Michael Oldroyd Trad 40m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Wed 29th Aug 2018
6- ★★ Råna - with Hilde Trad 270m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Sat 8th Sep 2018
Difficult route finding with some great pitches up high. Hilde’s first 6

  
5+ ★★ Ørneryggen - with Hilde Trad 100m Lofoten ★ Good Fri 7th Sep 2018
7- ★★★ Pan - with Vegard With Stennes Trad 130m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Mon 10th Sep 2018
Really nice climbing all the way to the top

  
6 ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Innika Trad 480m Lofoten ★★★ Mega Classic Sun 3rd Jul 2022
Such a classic line. For parties wanting to move fast, it can safely be done in 7 pitches by simul-climbing to pitch 2 & then again to P5. From here, pitch out as in the guidebook to a nice ledge 10m above the top of slanting corner (just before the loose block and short wide section). 10/11 can then be linked with a 60m & careful rope management

  
6- ★★★ Gaukerisset - with Hilde Trad 65m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Fri 14th Sep 2018
More amazing Lofoten climbing

  
5 ★★★ Gun's and Gandalf - with Vegard With Stennes, Line Trad 100m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Sat 16th Feb 2019
First climb after the move. First ice chipped off holds with nut tool.

  
5 ★★ Rapellruta Trad 48m Lofoten ★ Good Sun 28th Apr 2019
w/ the Line's

  
6 ★★★ Gandalf and Rose Trad 100m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Thu 25th Apr 2019
w/ the Line's

  
5+ 5 ★ Gandalf's kamin Trad 110m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Sat 11th May 2019
w/ Line

  
6+ ★★★ Svenske Diedret - with Fanny Trad 20m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Mon 27th May 2019
6 ★★★ Puffrisset - with Fanny Trad 110m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Mon 27th May 2019
Pitch 2 is splitter, pitch 3 is runout N6 slab

  
6+ ★★ Landstrykere - with Sigve Trad 140m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Mon 3rd Jun 2019
6+ ★ Mordar Anders - with Sigve Trad Lofoten ★ Good Mon 3rd Jun 2019
7 ★★★ Vestpillaren original avslutning (Original avslutning) - with Rune Trad 160m Lofoten ★★★ Mega Classic Tue 11th Jun 2019
The leaning groove pitch would be a crag classic anywhere in the world. Engaging stemming with all of Presten below your feet. Epic!!

  
7- ★★★ Klokkeren - with Rune Trad 150m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Tue 11th Jun 2019
6+ ★★ Variasjon til en variasjon - with Rune Trad 45m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Tue 11th Jun 2019
7-/7 Hard ★★★ Djupfjord sprickan - with Fanny Trad 20m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Thu 4th Jul 2019
An absolute classic and the best line on the South Face. Rack is doubles from 0.4 to #2 plus a 3 & 4 for the OW finish

  
6 ★ Pianisten - with Hilde Trad 110m Lofoten ★ Good Fri 5th Jul 2019
6- ★ Dagens rett - with Hilde Trad 70m Lofoten ★ Good Fri 5th Jul 2019
6+ A0 6+ A0 ★★ Migan pillaren - with Fanny, Kjetil Trad 350m Lofoten ★ Good Wed 10th Jul 2019
Some good pitches mixed in with a lot of average climbing. Approach is ok, descent is horrendous (walked off. The abseil line would be much nicer but fixed gear/bolts need replacing).

  
4+ ★★★ Nordryggen Trad 510m Lofoten ★★★ Mega Classic Wed 31st Jul 2019
2hr30m car to car run. Starting to feel like a local

  
7- ~6+ ★★★ Fire forsøk - with Sofie Trad 80m Lofoten ★★★ Mega Classic Mon 17th May 2021
The crag classic with P1/2 linked? So goood!

  
6 ~6+ ★★★ Den siste viking - with Fanny Trad 90m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Fri 26th Jul 2019
Would seem the Viking’s love a good sandbag

  
6- ★★ Colibrien - with Fanny Trad 180m Lofoten ★ Good Sat 27th Jul 2019
There´s some great lines on the cliff. This isn´t one of them.

  
5+ ★ Ant Line - with Emma, Richard Trad 85m Lofoten ★ Good Fri 2nd Aug 2019
7 ~7- ★★★ Dosethrisset - with Fanny Trad 15m Lofoten ★★★ Mega Classic Thu 5th Sep 2019
6+ ★★ Mjölkmustasch - with Fanny Trad Lofoten ★ Good Fri 20th Sep 2019
5+ Slemgutt risset Trad Lofoten Average Fri 20th Sep 2019
7 ★★★ Vårkåt - with Fanny, Kjetil Trad 130m Lofoten ★★★ Mega Classic Sun 22nd Sep 2019
Doesn´t get much better than this. Extra .3-.5 nice & #3 useful for pitches 2/3

  
7- ★★ Bingekos - with Fanny Trad 120m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Wed 25th Sep 2019
Great climb with 4 varied pitches. The OW (P2) might just be the crux thou it protects well with a standard rack via a broken seem to the left for all but the last 4/5m (where a tipped #6 fits & is nice to have).

  
7 ★★★ Elvis - with Fanny Trad 40m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Thu 26th Sep 2019
Sustained and balancy climbing. Bring extra small cams & micro wires.

  
6 ★★★ Ypperstepresten - with Vegard With Stennes Trad 220m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Fri 27th Sep 2019
Easy to link into 3 pitches with 60m rope (belay as close as possible to the roof on P1). Good rock & safe gear.

  
6+ ★★★ Månedans - with Vegard With Stennes Trad 95m Lofoten ★★★ Mega Classic Tue 1st Oct 2019
Så fin! Linked 1/2. P3 is beautiful, sustained finger jamming in a corner before a burly mantle (or not, I was pumped out of my brain by then) followed by exciting slab to the top. Sandbagged at the grade by Lofoten standards. Recommended!

  
7- ★★ Ole Johnny tribute - with Vegard Trad 80m Lofoten ★ Good Tue 1st Oct 2019
6 ★★ Johan Boyer - with Kjetil Trad 75m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Tue 8th Oct 2019
7 ★★★ Running for Teo - with Vegard With Stennes Trad 130m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Wed 2nd Oct 2019
5 ★ Vegard Ruta 1 - with Vegard With Stennes Trad 35m Lofoten ★ Good Wed 2nd Oct 2019
5+ ★ Vegard Ruta 2 - with Vegard With Stennes Trad 30m Lofoten ★ Good Wed 2nd Oct 2019
6- ★★ Hun hater meg, det liker jeg! - with Vegard With Stennes Trad 35m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Wed 2nd Oct 2019
6 ★★ At dawn, we ride - with Vegard With Stennes, Charlie Trad 190m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Thu 3rd Oct 2019
5 Røyskatten - with Kjetil Trad 30m Lofoten Average Mon 7th Oct 2019
4 Bombs over bogans - with Kjetil Trad 30m Lofoten Average Mon 7th Oct 2019
6+ ★★ Vikingjenta - with Kjetil Trad 75m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Tue 8th Oct 2019
Nice varied climbing. The initial lower block sounds loose & vibrates. Use caution/climb at your own risk for this section.

  
6- ★★ Celebrian - with Kjetil Trad 530m Lofoten ★ Good Wed 9th Oct 2019
Milking the last of the climbing season linking this, Vestpillaren & a couple of laps on Gandalf for an epic Lofoten 30 pitch day

  
5 ★★★ Gandalf - with Vegard With Stennes Trad 100m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Wed 8th Jan 2020
If you can keep the rope running straight, a 60m gets you to top from the P1 belay.

  
5+ ★ Smeagul - with Kjetil, Lo, Fanny Trad 110m Lofoten ★ Good Tue 15th Oct 2019
5+ ★★ Lost Expressen - with Kjetil, Lo, Fanny Trad 95m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Tue 15th Oct 2019
5- Lost Gandalf - with Michael Oldroyd Trad 110m Lofoten Average Thu 23rd Aug 2018
5 ★★★ Gandalf Trad 100m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Thu 17th Oct 2019
Gollum is the more secure solo. Wouldn´t do this again..

  
4+ ★★ Venstre risset - with Lo, Kjetil Trad 10m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Thu 9th Apr 2020
6- Tynn - with Lo, Kjetil Trad 10m Lofoten Average Thu 9th Apr 2020
4+ ★★ Sentrums risset - with Lo, Kjetil Trad 10m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Thu 9th Apr 2020
About as good as a 10m 4+ can get. Flott klatring

  
6- ★★ Apa - with Kjetil Trad 15m Lofoten ★ Good Sat 18th Apr 2020
6- Chimp - with Kjetil Trad Lofoten Crap Sat 18th Apr 2020
Short, loose & akward.

  
6- ★★ Four pitch route - with Sofie Trad 80m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Wed 26th May 2021
#4 for start of P4 nice

  
6+ ★★ Trollmannens uløselige mysterium - with Kjetil Trad 20m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Sat 25th Apr 2020
#4 for the start & #5 finish works ok

  
7- ★★★ Housewives - with Lo Trad 30m Lofoten ★★★ Mega Classic Thu 30th Apr 2020
My favourite finger crack in Lofoten. Sustained & full value for the grade. Couple of extra finger sized pieces nice.

  
5+ ★★ Ant pillar extension - with Lo Trad 90m Lofoten ★ Good Sat 23rd May 2020
6- ★★★ Fingerrisset - with Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg Trad 50m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Sat 11th Jul 2020
A fun bonus pitch when your already up there. Lower-off´s a nest of fixed nuts (good slings w/ quicklink)

  
6+ ★★ The Next Best Thing - with Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg Trad 380m Lofoten ★ Good Mon 13th Jul 2020
Most people I´ve chatted with seem to enjoy this route. I thought it was total shit. I guess some sections of the lower pitches are nice?

  
5+ ★ Luke Skywalker - with Fanny Trad 65m Lofoten Average Wed 22nd Jul 2020
Squeezed in something new between the rain. Wouldn´t go back

  
5+ ★★ Pianohandler Lunds drøm - with Fanny Trad 80m Lofoten ★ Good Thu 20th Aug 2020
6+ ★★ Ingen sommerferie - with Fanny Trad 72m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Thu 20th Aug 2020
6+ Easy ★★★ Blod eller gull - with Vegard With Stennes Trad 95m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Tue 25th Aug 2020
A dihedral, roof, OW & some face climbing. Topo says 6+, description says 6 in the guidebook. Either way, crux is short & well protected & there´s lots of nice movement on this one.

  
7 ★★★ Snickar glädje - with Karl Olof Hallberg Trad 15m Lofoten ★★★ Classic Thu 27th Aug 2020
With a pre-placed piece. Great route

  
2 ★ Sydryggen Trad Lofoten ★ Good Wed 2nd Sep 2020
6+ ★★★ Gandalf original avslutning - with Fanny Trad 25m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Sat 21st Sep 2019
5+ Demon Rib - with Fanny Trad Lofoten Don't Bother Mon 28th Sep 2020
5 Demonstranten direkte - with Fanny Trad Lofoten Average Mon 28th Sep 2020
7 ★★ Førstereisgutten - with Kjetil Trad 95m Lofoten ★★ Very Good Sun 4th Oct 2020
Nice climbing. The crux protects well with small wires (or black totem). A great option for busy days at Gandalf

  
5 ★ Orkan - with Aniek Trad Lofoten Average Mon 19th Oct 2020
Searching for sun while the projects dry/defrost

  
4 ★ Laber bris - with Aniek Trad Lofoten Average Mon 19th Oct 2020
5+ ★ Stiv kuling - with Aniek Trad Lofoten ★ Good Mon 19th Oct 2020

Showing 1 - 100 out of 238 ascents.

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