Amazing, sustained, steep climbing. Some bold moves and one serious pitch which gets out the best of you.
Climb the detached flake
Step right then up into the clean RF corner system. Belay at a small stance
Continue up the corner, traversing under the roof and up to a small stance
Steeper jamming leads up to, then over a bulge & trending left in the beautiful corner system to another small stance
More steep jamming up the remaining corner system leads to a semi hanging belay under the roof.
The traverse pitch. Head out left under the roof then up the airy corner for 5m before boldly traversing left 2m to gain the next crack system. An exposed, technical & excellent pitch
Back to hand jams & easier climbing up the next corner system.
A short pitch up the remaining corner system to a deluxe grassy ledge
A tough start, retrofitted with fixed equipment (1 bolt, 2 knifblades), leads to a wider crack system & gradually easier climbing. The Crux.
Continue up the wide corner, before trending left (big exposure) under the roof where a handcrack appears up to the final summit.
The original line was first climbed in winter and starts in the same position as Vestveggen, following a more direct path sightly left of Vestveggen and slightly right of the defining large blocks which lean into the West Face.
Stated in the guidebook as having easier route finding and better climbing, it´s actualy neither of those things; Expect just as nice climbing with just as difficult route finding!
FA:Bengt Flygel Nilsfor, Øystein Gravrok & Ole Thomas Gjærum, 1994
