Rating | Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2601
points
| 9- | ★★★ Minnerisset - with Aniek | 28m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 20th Oct 2020 | |||
30m of surprisingly good hand jams split by 2 distinct crux sections. Had no business being up there, just dabbled while the strong kid rested. All moves go; Linking was hilariously heavy. Fun to touch real climbing
|
|||||||||
2422
points
| 7+ | ★★★ Den Siste Sommeren - with Alexander | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 23rd Jun 2021 | |||
Seemed like the appropriate time to finally tick this. Super nice crack climbing. Pitch 2 is mega with a couple of really cool boulder problems. Protects well. Carried a 0.2 & triples in 0.3-0.4 but didn´t place them.
Standard Lofoten rack works fine.
|
|||||||||
2415
points
| 7+ | ★★★ One hundred years later - with Sofie | 600m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 1st Jun 2021 | |||
Sustained, varied climbing with just the right amount of runouts to keep things safe but spicy. The setting is out of this world. One of the very best I´ve climbed in Norway.
|
|||||||||
2363
points
| 7 | ★★★ Ninjarisset - with Sara S | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Jun 2022 | ||||
2313
points
| 7- A0 | FA ★ Joika Raiders - with Christoffer Martinsen | Lofoten | ★ Good | Mon 31st Jul 2023 | ||||
2312
points
| 7- ~6- | ★★ The King Has Spoken - with Pat | 600m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 26th Jul 2023 | |||
Rockfax topo & description were good. Thought maybe bit nicer than Celebrian but definitely no classic. Perhaps something was lost in translation for German to Norwegian grades. Taking 3 full grades off each pitch seemed about right
|
|||||||||
2273
points
| 8- | ★★★ Lofoten reality - with Pat | 160m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 30th Jul 2023 | |||
Surprised by how good the other pitches were. One of Lofoten´s best. #4 handy for both roof pitches
|
|||||||||
2268
points
| 7 R - X | ★★★ Storpillaren - with Ada, Ingrid V | 620m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Aug 2021 | |||
It was hard. Suggested rack was a 0.1 micro cam, doubles in black totem to #3 plus a #4. Could get away with less, but was happy to have them all.
|
|||||||||
2265
points
| 7 | ★★★ Skyvandraren - with Fanny, Ada | Salten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 7th Aug 2021 | ||||
2249
points
| 8 | ★★★ Stålormsrisset - with Karantene livet | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Jul 2021 | ||||
Super nice steep climbing with cool movement. Spent 4 rope solo sessions working it. Top 2/3 is fine but initial sequence of moves to establish in the flared jam is right at my limit. Taller friends can skip this sequence & just jam. Need be stronger to make plugging gear at the start feel more secure (the pro is good, the climber is weak).
|
|||||||||
2243
points
| 7 | ★★ Lay-bye Layback - with Sofie | 15m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th May 2021 | |||
Climbs nicer than it looks.
|
|||||||||
2223
points
| 7+/8- | ★★★ La Vida Joika - with Pat | 100m, 10 | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Jul 2023 | |||
First 2 pitches were great, it was nice saving #4s for second half of the OW. The bolted last pitch was a bit gross. Recommend skipping that & rapping from P2
|
|||||||||
2173
points
| 7 | ★★ Førstereisgutten - with Kjetil | 95m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Oct 2020 | |||
Nice climbing. The crux protects well with small wires (or black totem). A great option for busy days at Gandalf
|
|||||||||
2161
points
| 7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje - with Karl Olof Hallberg | 15m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Aug 2020 | |||
With a pre-placed piece. Great route
|
|||||||||
2095
points
| 7- | ★★★ Jediriddarane kjem attende - with Fanny, Ada | 290m | Salten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Aug 2021 | |||
2076
points
| 8- | ★★★ Huggormen - with Sara M. | 30m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 14th Oct 2021 | |||
Eventually figured out midget beta for the crux after multiple sessions. Not fast enough thou before winter hit. Favourite line at the cliff!
|
|||||||||
2071
points
| 7- ~6+ | ★★★ Fire forsøk - with Sofie | 80m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 17th May 2021 | |||
The crag classic with P1/2 linked? So goood!
|
|||||||||
2062
points
| 7 | FA ★★★ Running for Teo - with Vegard With Stennes | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Wed 2nd Oct 2019 | |||
2060
points
| 7 | ★★★ Elvis - with Fanny | 40m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 26th Sep 2019 | |||
Sustained and balancy climbing. Bring extra small cams & micro wires.
|
|||||||||
2059
points
| 7 | ★★★ Vårkåt - with Fanny, Kjetil | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 22nd Sep 2019 | |||
Doesn´t get much better than this. Extra .3-.5 nice & #3 useful for pitches 2/3
|
|||||||||
2054
points
| 7 ~7- | ★★★ Dosethrisset - with Fanny | 15m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 5th Sep 2019 | |||
2041
points
| 7 7 R | ★★★ Korstoget - with Fanny, Ingrid V | 390m, 3 | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Jul 2019 | |||
Some great climbing with one of Presten´s best pitches down low (P3). The runout pitches arn´t so bad. After the 6+ (P7), quality drops off quickly. Because of this, it´s quite common to traverse at Storhylla & finish up other lines
|
|||||||||
2028
points
| 7 | FA ★★★ Joika Ekspressen - with Rune | 400m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 12th Jun 2019 | |||
2028
points
| 7 | ★★★ Vestpillaren original avslutning (Original avslutning) - with Rune | 160m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 11th Jun 2019 | |||
The leaning groove pitch would be a crag classic anywhere in the world. Engaging stemming with all of Presten below your feet. Epic!!
|
|||||||||
1986
points
| 7-/7 Hard | ★★★ Djupfjord sprickan - with Fanny | 20m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 4th Jul 2019 | |||
An absolute classic and the best line on the South Face. Rack is doubles from 0.4 to #2 plus a 3 & 4 for the OW finish
|
|||||||||
1966
points
| 6 |
★★★ Korstoget
- with
Andrea O
1
6
35
2
5
40
3
6
40
| 120m, 3 | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | |||
Korstoget into Vestpillaren
|
|||||||||
1956
points
| 7- | ★★★ Housewives - with Lo | 30m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 30th Apr 2020 | |||
My favourite finger crack in Lofoten. Sustained & full value for the grade. Couple of extra finger sized pieces nice.
|
|||||||||
1952
points
| 7- | ★ Running for Rasmus - with Kjetil, Fanny | 85m | Lofoten | Crap | Sun 19th Apr 2020 | |||
Tried to ignore chronic medial epicondylitis from all the salmon murdering. Didn´t go well. Dragged up by my ropeguns (it´s probably a nice route)
|
|||||||||
1925
points
| 6+ | ★★ Syltetøying - with Fanny, Ada | Salten | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Aug 2021 | ||||
1908
points
| 6+ | ★★★ Vågarisset - with Alexander | 70m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 9th Jun 2021 | |||
Lives up to the hype. Heavy. Two 4s & 5s plus a sling is your rack for P2. Lower-off is now a nest of cord & tatt, awkwardly placed high on a flake. The well positioned bolts are missing hangers :((
|
|||||||||
1903
points
| 6+ | ★★★ Englevinger - with Sofie | 85m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 25th May 2021 | |||
There won´t be a line for this one but it´s 3 varied & high quality pitches. Deserves it´s Top50 guidebook tag
|
|||||||||
1892
points
| 7- | ★★ Ole Johnny tribute - with Vegard | 80m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Tue 1st Oct 2019 | |||
1890
points
| 7- | ★★ Bingekos - with Fanny | 120m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 25th Sep 2019 | |||
Great climb with 4 varied pitches. The OW (P2) might just be the crux thou it protects well with a standard rack via a broken seem to the left for all but the last 4/5m (where a tipped #6 fits & is nice to have).
|
|||||||||
1889
points
| 7+ | ★★★ Ormen Lange - with Alexander | 60m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Wed 18th Aug 2021 | |||
Nice steep route. Pulled on gear through P2. First bolted anchor is junk but it´s easy to build a stance directly under the 7+ pitch. Rest of the anchors are in good condition (A 70m gets you to the ground from P2)
|
|||||||||
1876
points
| 7- | FA ★★★ Nordvestpassasjen - with Stian Bruvoll | 370m, 3 | Ofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 10th Aug 2019 | |||
Gradually steepening handcrack for 100m plus leads to 2 distinctive crux pitches. #4 & #5 handy.
|
|||||||||
1859
points
| 7- ~6+ | ★★★ Tapir - with Fanny | 20m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Jun 2019 | |||
1858
points
| 7- | ★★★ Klokkeren - with Rune | 150m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 11th Jun 2019 | |||
1855
points
| 6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Innika | 480m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 3rd Jul 2022 | |||
Such a classic line. For parties wanting to move fast, it can safely be done in 7 pitches by simul-climbing to pitch 2 & then again to P5. From here, pitch out as in the guidebook to a nice ledge 10m above the top of slanting corner (just before the loose block and short wide section). 10/11 can then be linked with a 60m & careful rope management
|
|||||||||
1854
points
| 6 | ★★★ Gamle rev - with Innika | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th Jun 2022 | |||
1821
points
| 6+ Easy | ★★★ Blod eller gull - with Vegard With Stennes | 95m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 25th Aug 2020 | |||
A dihedral, roof, OW & some face climbing. Topo says 6+, description says 6 in the guidebook. Either way, crux is short & well protected & there´s lots of nice movement on this one.
|
|||||||||
1819
points
| 6+ | ★★ Ingen sommerferie - with Fanny | 72m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Aug 2020 | |||
1812
points
| 6+ | ★★★ Vestveggen - with Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg | 350m | Ofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Jul 2020 | |||
Quality climbing, outrageous setting..much less walking than the other routes. What´s not to like?
|
|||||||||
1808
points
| 6+ | ★★ The Next Best Thing - with Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg | 380m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Mon 13th Jul 2020 | |||
Most people I´ve chatted with seem to enjoy this route. I thought it was total shit. I guess some sections of the lower pitches are nice?
|
|||||||||
1784
points
| 6+ | ★★ Trollmannens uløselige mysterium - with Kjetil | 20m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Apr 2020 | |||
#4 for the start & #5 finish works ok
|
|||||||||
1782
points
| 6 ~6- | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - with Vegard With Stennes | 95m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Nov 2021 | |||
1782
points
| 6 | ★★★ Gamle rev - with Vegard With Stennes | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd Nov 2021 | |||
Det siste Gandalf klatretur. Kommer til å savne ikke ha dette i bakgården
|
|||||||||
1775
points
| 7- | ★★★ Pan - with Vegard With Stennes | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Mon 10th Sep 2018 | |||
Really nice climbing all the way to the top
|
|||||||||
1755
points
| 6 | ★★ 3-stjerners karbonpudding - with Fanny, Ada | 120m | Salten | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Aug 2021 | |||
1748
points
| 6 | ★ Straight Albatross - with Fanny, Kjetil | 90m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 14th Jul 2021 | |||
1724
points
| 6+ | ★★ Vikingjenta - with Kjetil | 75m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th Oct 2019 | |||
Nice varied climbing. The initial lower block sounds loose & vibrates. Use caution/climb at your own risk for this section.
|
|||||||||
1722
points
| 6+ | ★★★ Månedans - with Vegard With Stennes | 95m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 1st Oct 2019 | |||
Så fin! Linked 1/2. P3 is beautiful, sustained finger jamming in a corner before a burly mantle (or not, I was pumped out of my brain by then) followed by exciting slab to the top. Sandbagged at the grade by Lofoten standards. Recommended!
|
|||||||||
1719
points
| 6+ | ★★★ Gandalf original avslutning - with Fanny | 25m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Sep 2019 | |||
1718
points
| 6+ | ★★ Mjölkmustasch - with Fanny | Lofoten | ★ Good | Fri 20th Sep 2019 | ||||
1688
points
| 6+ | ★★ Variasjon til en variasjon - with Rune | 45m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 11th Jun 2019 | |||
1686
points
| 6+ | ★ Mordar Anders - with Sigve | Lofoten | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Jun 2019 | ||||
1686
points
| 6+ | ★★ Landstrykere - with Sigve | 140m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Jun 2019 | |||
1683
points
| 6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret - with Fanny | 20m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Mon 27th May 2019 | |||
1675
points
| 6 | ★★★ Lundeklubben - with Vegard With Stennes | 90m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Fri 13th Nov 2020 | |||
This line is waaay hyped plus, roof/bulge pitch seeps & will more often than not, be the only wet section on the wall. Not even top 5 on the Festvåg cliffs
|
|||||||||
1642
points
| 6 | ★★★ Vesteggen - with Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg | 260m | Ofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th Jul 2020 | |||
1640
points
| 6 ~6- | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - with Johanne Regine Gustavsen, Sam | 95m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Mon 20th Jul 2020 | |||
P2/P3 can be linked by stretching a 60m. Easier than the neighbouring Gamle rev (perhaps easiest 6 in Lofoten?)
|
|||||||||
1554
points
| 6 | ★★ Johan Boyer - with Kjetil | 75m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th Oct 2019 | |||
1552
points
| 6 | FA ★★ At dawn, we ride - with Vegard With Stennes, Charlie | 190m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Oct 2019 | |||
1551
points
| 6 | ★★★ Ypperstepresten - with Vegard With Stennes | 220m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 27th Sep 2019 | |||
Easy to link into 3 pitches with 60m rope (belay as close as possible to the roof on P1). Good rock & safe gear.
|
|||||||||
1532
points
| 6 ~6+ | ★★★ Den siste viking - with Fanny | 90m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 26th Jul 2019 | |||
Would seem the Viking’s love a good sandbag
|
|||||||||
1530
points
| 6- | ★★ Four pitch route - with Sofie | 80m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Wed 26th May 2021 | |||
#4 for start of P4 nice
|
|||||||||
1525
points
| 6 | ★ Pianisten - with Hilde | 110m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Fri 5th Jul 2019 | |||
1513
points
| 6 | ★★★ Puffrisset - with Fanny | 110m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th May 2019 | |||
Pitch 2 is splitter, pitch 3 is runout N6 slab
|
|||||||||
1504
points
| 6 | ★★★ Gandalf and Rose | 100m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 25th Apr 2019 | |||
w/ the Line's
|
|||||||||
1434
points
| 6- | ★★★ Fingerrisset - with Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg | 50m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Jul 2020 | |||
A fun bonus pitch when your already up there. Lower-off´s a nest of fixed nuts (good slings w/ quicklink)
|
|||||||||
1431
points
| 6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Michael Oldroyd, Clara, Romane | 480m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 28th Aug 2018 | |||
Amazing route in a postcard setting
|
|||||||||
1429
points
| 6 | ★★★ Pizzatyven - with Michael Oldroyd | 100m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 21st Aug 2018 | |||
1429
points
| 6 | Sterk storm - with Michael Oldroyd | Lofoten | Average | Mon 20th Aug 2018 | ||||
1408
points
| 6- | Chimp - with Kjetil | Lofoten | Crap | Sat 18th Apr 2020 | ||||
Short, loose & akward.
|
|||||||||
1408
points
| 6- | ★★ Apa - with Kjetil | 15m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sat 18th Apr 2020 | |||
1406
points
| 6- | Tynn - with Lo, Kjetil | 10m | Lofoten | Average | Thu 9th Apr 2020 | |||
1350
points
| 6- | ★★ Celebrian - with Kjetil | 530m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 9th Oct 2019 | |||
Milking the last of the climbing season linking this, Vestpillaren & a couple of laps on Gandalf for an epic Lofoten 30 pitch day
|
|||||||||
1348
points
| 6- | FA ★★ Hun hater meg, det liker jeg! - with Vegard With Stennes | 35m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd Oct 2019 | |||
1328
points
| 6- | ★★ Colibrien - with Fanny | 180m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sat 27th Jul 2019 | |||
There´s some great lines on the cliff. This isn´t one of them.
|
|||||||||
1322
points
| 6- | ★ Dagens rett - with Hilde | 70m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Fri 5th Jul 2019 | |||
1233
points
| 6- | ★★★ Gaukerisset - with Hilde | 65m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 14th Sep 2018 | |||
More amazing Lofoten climbing
|
|||||||||
1231
points
| 6- | ★★ Råna - with Hilde | 270m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Sep 2018 | |||
Difficult route finding with some great pitches up high. Hilde’s first 6
|
|||||||||
1229
points
| 6- | ★★★ Sydpillaren - with Michael Oldroyd, Clara, Romane | 630m | Ofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 1st Sep 2018 | |||
1228
points
| 6- | ★★★ Skiløperen - with Michael Oldroyd | 40m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 29th Aug 2018 | |||
1226
points
| 6- | ★★★ Guns n' Roses - with Michael Oldroyd | 90m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 23rd Aug 2018 | |||
1181
points
| 5+ | ★ Stiv kuling - with Aniek | Lofoten | ★ Good | Mon 19th Oct 2020 | ||||
1181
points
| 5+ | Frisk bris - with Aniek | Lofoten | Average | Mon 19th Oct 2020 | ||||
1175
points
| 5+ | Demon Rib - with Fanny | Lofoten | Don't Bother | Mon 28th Sep 2020 | ||||
1163
points
| 5+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds drøm - with Fanny | 80m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 20th Aug 2020 | |||
1154
points
| 5+ | ★ Luke Skywalker - with Fanny | 65m | Lofoten | Average | Wed 22nd Jul 2020 | |||
Squeezed in something new between the rain. Wouldn´t go back
|
|||||||||
1136
points
| 5+ | ★★ Ant pillar extension - with Lo | 90m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sat 23rd May 2020 | |||
1082
points
| 5+ | Escape to paradise | Lofoten | Wed 21st Oct 2020 | |||||
1070
points
| 5+ | ★★ Lost Expressen - with Kjetil, Lo, Fanny | 95m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 15th Oct 2019 | |||
1070
points
| 5+ | ★ Smeagul - with Kjetil, Lo, Fanny | 110m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Tue 15th Oct 2019 | |||
1066
points
| 5+ | FA ★ Vegard Ruta 2 - with Vegard With Stennes | 30m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 2nd Oct 2019 | |||
1047
points
| 5+ | ★ Ant Line - with Emma, Richard | 85m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Fri 2nd Aug 2019 | |||
1021
points
| 5+ | ★★★ Forsida - with Fanny | 120m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Mon 6th May 2019 | |||
Scenic, sunny & deluxe belay ledges. A great way to cruise up the goat
|
|||||||||
1019
points
| 5+ | ★★ Ananasekspress - with Fanny | 60m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Mon 29th Apr 2019 | |||
962
points
| 5+ | Slemgutt risset | Lofoten | Average | Fri 20th Sep 2019 | ||||
949
points
| 5 | ★★★ Gandalf | 100m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Nov 2021 | |||
Gandalf into Gollum to avoid some slippy parts. Vises, Gandalf
|
|||||||||
948
points
| 5+ | ★★ Ørneryggen - with Hilde | 100m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Fri 7th Sep 2018 |