Routes in Nordland for selected grade

The aesthetic dihedral. Takes small wires

Clean dog-leg crack on the left side of the cliff. Convenient lower-off.

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1. Clip the bolt & traverse right across the slab to gain the crack. When the angle eases take the crack left & follow this to a good ledge below the steep finger crack in the dihedral.

2. Climb the finger crack up to, then over the roof. It´s nicer to belay on the ledge in the col than directly below the P3 crack (& keeps you away from anyone climbing 1910 Ruta or Forsida.

3. Traverse up over detached pillar then down & left for about 3 metres, then up the gradually widening crack. A #3 needed, #4 nice.

Thin gear needed & an extra piece or two in the 0.3-0.5 are nice to have.

Excellent climbing from Storhylla up the corner system left of Vestpillaren (rejoins at the slanting corner stance).

Tight hands to offwidth crack. Fun jamming test piece that´s easy for the small hand crowd (7-) & tough work for large hands (7)

Bolted anchor as of July 2019

1. Boulderly start leads to easier climbing. Belay at a small stance. Some hollow sounding flakes & loose rock.

2. Climb straight up from the belay before traversing out right under the roof. From here, rock quality improves & it´s sustained thin fingers & stemming up the dihedral. Step left at the top to an ok stance. A great pitch.

3. Fun slab & jamming to the top. Good rock. Much less sustained than P2.

1. Start at small arete where it has been brushed, traverse into a right-leaning corner, belay on a ledge under a steep crack-system.

2. Climb the corner and over a roof where the crack widens, semi-hanging belay on small ledge by the start of the finger-crack.

3. Climb the finger crack, and at the top; traverse left under a roof and belay just over it on a small ledge. fesknajs!

4. Climb the crack-system to its end, then make a short traverse left to join Vårkåt at the top. Easy climbing from here to tree belay.

Some images here-

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Topo here:

http://www.ntk.no/topo/3235/

Some images here-

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Criminally under climbed, this is one of the best road side finger cracks in the North.

Tackles obvious cracks and corners left of the cave.

1. Handcrack on left wall. It appears this pitch has been previously climbed. Belay at base of right trending hand crack.

2. Climb the sustained hand crack, pulling through the roof then up slabs to a good stance.

3. Trend right towards, then up the dihedral. It´s fingers then hands before the final slab to the top. Tree belay.

Amazing, sustained, steep climbing. Some bold moves and one serious pitch which gets out the best of you.

1. Climb the detached flake

2. Step right then up into the clean RF corner system. Belay at a small stance

3. Continue up the corner, traversing under the roof and up to a small stance

4. Steeper jamming leads up to, then over a bulge & trending left in the beautiful corner system to another small stance

5. More steep jamming up the remaining corner system leads to a semi hanging belay under the roof.

6. The traverse pitch. Head out left under the roof then up the airy corner for 5m before boldly traversing left 2m to gain the next crack system. An exposed, technical & excellent pitch

7. Back to hand jams & easier climbing up the next corner system.

8. A short pitch up the remaining corner system to a deluxe grassy ledge

9. A tough start, retrofitted with fixed equipment (1 bolt, 2 knifblades), leads to a wider crack system & gradually easier climbing. The Crux.

10. Continue up the wide corner, before trending left (big exposure) under the roof where a handcrack appears up to the final summit.

Some images:

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The cracked wall left of corner with historic piton protecting crux, otherwise new bolts. Anchor bolts will need retrieving via walk down

This route does not top out

The route is situated in the next big buttress to the north of route ”Påskeeggen” on Gangesaksla ENE face. Follow shore or do the approach by boat.

Very nice long route offering good variety of climbing corners, splitter cracks and slabs. Excellent rock quality, little vegetation and loose rock (except on ledges and ramps) gives an enjoyable and interesting tour with difficulties no more than grade 6 plus a few metres of thin hands crack which probably go free around 6+/7-. Some little run-outs <5m are encountered, but they are pretty straight forward with one exception: pitch 9 being a little bit more complex.

The lower part (p 1-15) of the route consists of dihedrals and cracks with occassional slab cruxes in between. Pitches 7-13 are especially nice. After p 15 there is a super big ledge with snow and water running from the right side.

The upper part is easy going and more open offering a nice promenade with most of the Skjomen fjord as a beutiful backdrop and Frostisen glacier coming into sight as the height is gained. Start by climbing weird structures inside of wide crack/gully which splits the face. Continue climbing this for about 200 metres or 3-4 pitches. In the uppermost part after coming out of the crack/gully system the climbing goes little by little diagonally left to top out almost at the left corner of the whole rock face.

A top50 line in the guidebook. Reports from parties repeating indicate it´s a bit of an adventure route.

Located opposite side of the fjord (North).

Tackles the black streaked South Pillar of Særtertindan