Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Unknown | |||||||||
5.5 4 | ★★ Sjøsvaet, Å | 120m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Aug 2005 | ||||
Trad | |||||||||
7+/8- | ★★★ La Vida Joika - with Pat | 100m, 10 | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Jul 2023 | ||||
First 2 pitches were great, it was nice saving #4s for second half of the OW. The bolted last pitch was a bit gross. Recommend skipping that & rapping from P2
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6 | ★★★ Solens sønner | 150m, 6 | Lofoten | Wed 8th Jul 2015 | |||||
6 | ★★★ Solens sønner | 150m, 6 | Lofoten | Wed 8th Jul 2015 | |||||
Trad
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7 7 R | ★★★ Korstoget - with Fanny, Ingrid V | 390m, 3 | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Jul 2019 | ||||
Some great climbing with one of Presten´s best pitches down low (P3). The runout pitches arn´t so bad. After the 6+ (P7), quality drops off quickly. Because of this, it´s quite common to traverse at Storhylla & finish up other lines
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7- | FA ★★★ Nordvestpassasjen - with Stian Bruvoll | 370m, 3 | Ofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 10th Aug 2019 | ||||
Gradually steepening handcrack for 100m plus leads to 2 distinctive crux pitches. #4 & #5 handy.
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6 |
★★★ Korstoget
- with
Andrea O
1
6
35
2
5
40
3
6
40
| 120m, 3 | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | ||||
Korstoget til Vestpillaren
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6+ | ★★★ Englevinger | 85m, 1 | Lofoten | Thu 11th Aug 2011 | |||||
7- | ★★★ Tapir | 20m, 1 | Lofoten | Wed 10th Aug 2011 | |||||
6+ | ★★★ Englevinger | 85m, 1 | Lofoten | Fri 10th Jul 2015 | |||||
7- | ★★★ Tapir | 20m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 28th Jul 2017 | ||||
7- ~6+ | ★★★ Tapir - with Fanny | 20m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Jun 2019 | ||||
6+ | ★★★ Englevinger - with Sofie | 85m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 25th May 2021 | ||||
There won´t be a line for this one but it´s 3 varied & high quality pitches. Deserves it´s Top50 guidebook tag
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6+ | ★★★ Englevinger | 85m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 18th Aug 2019 | ||||
7- | ★★★ Tapir | 20m, 1 | Lofoten | Fri 4th Sep 2020 | |||||
6+ | ★★★ Englevinger | 85m, 1 | Lofoten | Fri 10th Jul 2015 | |||||
Trad
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7- | ★★★ Tapir | 20m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 25th Jul 2023 | ||||
6+ | ★★★ Englevinger | 85m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Aug 2023 | ||||
Led P2 which was the crux. Missed a footer first time up. P3 has no real off width moves and was steep fun. The description and topo doesn’t make clear the down climb needed to get onto P3
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7- | ★★★ Tapir | 20m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Mon 4th Sep 2023 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | Lofoten | Sat 8th Aug 2015 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Wed 12th Aug 2015 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Sep 2016 | ||||
Great climb! We did it in light rain, but it wasn't a problem, the rock was drying very fast.
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5 | ★★ Butter Fingers | 30m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 1st Sep 2016 | ||||
Better than Butter Balls. Tricky finish on a large crack.
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3+ | ★ Butter Balls | 30m | Lofoten | Average | Thu 1st Sep 2016 | ||||
Easy but fun.
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5 | ★★★ Gollum - with Karen Van Audenhaege, , Douglas Eskelius | 110m | Lofoten | Sun 12th Jun 2016 | |||||
Second route of the day, after Gandalf.
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5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Wed 28th Jun 2017 | ||||
3+ | ★ Butter Balls | 30m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Tue 4th Jul 2017 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 19th Jul 2011 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jun 2019 | ||||
3+ | ★ Butter Balls | 30m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Aug 2019 | ||||
6+ |
★★★ Vågarisset
- with
Julia Wind
1
6+
70m
2
| 70m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 20th Aug 2019 | ||||
Had to bail after pitch 1 because I had not enough big gear.
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4 | ★★★ That time you got chased by an angry Norvegian farmer | 8m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Sat 24th Aug 2019 | ||||
3 | Nobody likes Gill | 8m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sat 24th Aug 2019 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 17th Oct 2019 | ||||
6+ | ★★★ Vågarisset | 70m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 28th Jul 2020 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum - with Philip C | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 11th Aug 2018 | ||||
6+ | ★★★ Vågarisset - with Alexander | 70m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 9th Jun 2021 | ||||
Lives up to the hype. Heavy. Two 4s & 5s plus a sling is your rack for P2. Lower-off is now a nest of cord & tatt, awkwardly placed high on a flake. The well positioned bolts are missing hangers :((
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5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th Jun 2021 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | Lofoten | Thu 21st Jul 2016 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sun 15th Jun 2014 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | Lofoten | Tue 28th Jun 2022 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum - with Jan | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Jun 2011 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum - with Nico and Alba | 110m | Lofoten | Thu 25th Aug 2022 | |||||
3+ | ★ Butter Balls - with Adele Westgård | 30m | Lofoten | Sun 14th Aug 2022 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Gollum
1
5
2
5-
3
5-
| 110m | Lofoten | Tue 19th Jul 2022 | |||||
5 ~5+ |
★★★ Gollum
1
5
Hard for the grade.
2
5-
Initially hard from stand, followed by nice crack climbing before a steeper section with hod holds.
3
5-
Easy last pitch. It is possible to do the route in two pitches with a 60 m rope. | 110m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Jun 2023 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum - with Niklaus | 110m | Lofoten | Sat 1st Jul 2023 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum - with Dylan van drunen | 110m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Jul 2023 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Mon 24th Jul 2023 | ||||
5 ~5+ | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | Lofoten | Thu 20th Jul 2023 | |||||
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5 ~5+ | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | Lofoten | Thu 20th Jul 2023 | |||||
Mit Lenja, wiederholt. Super performance von Lenja!
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5 |
★★★ Gollum
- with
Ola
1
5
2
5-
3
5-
| 110m | Lofoten | Wed 19th Jul 2023 | |||||
Comminting first crux, then easier. Nice crack in the middle.
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5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th May 2024 | ||||
4c 4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute (Piano Dealer Lund's Route) | 110m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Tue 1st Jul 2003 | ||||
5b 5 | ★★★ Gandalf | 100m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Jul 2008 | ||||
5.10 5+ | ★★★ Forsida (Svolvaer Geita) | 120m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Aug 2005 | ||||
5a 5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær (Bare Blabar (Only Blueberries)) | 250m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 21st Jul 2008 | ||||
5+ | ★★★ Child's play | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Jul 2009 | ||||
Climbed with Catrine and Emilie. A fantastic crack, especially the third pitch. Be aware of loose large flakes at the top of the second pitch.
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4+ | ★★ 1910 Ruta | 56m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Aug 2005 | ||||
5a 5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær (Bare Blabar (Only Blueberries)) | 250m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 21st Aug 2003 | ||||
superb route
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4+ | ★★ 1910 Ruta | 56m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 15th Jul 2004 | ||||
5.10b 6 | ★★★ Lundeklubben (Lundeklubben (The Puffin Club)) | 90m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.7 5 | ★★★ Gun's and Gandalf | 100m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 15th Aug 2008 | ||||
Classic start for my Lofoten climbing. Climbed with Thorbjørn.
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5b 5 | ★★★ Gandalf | 100m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Jul 2003 | ||||
5.9 5+ | ★★ Tindstinden | 100m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Aug 2005 | ||||
5b 5 | ★★★ Gandalf | 100m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.10 5+ | ★★★ Forsida (Svolvaer Geita) | 120m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 19th Aug 2003 | ||||
Nice Jump
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5.9 6- | ★★★ Guns n' Roses | 90m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Jul 2003 | ||||
4+ | ★★ 1910 Ruta | 56m | Lofoten | Sat 15th Jul 1989 | |||||
OK. Airy finish
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5+ 6- | ★★ Colibrien | 180m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.10b 6 | ★★★ Lundeklubben (Lundeklubben (The Puffin Club)) | 90m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Jul 2003 | ||||
4c 4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute (Piano Dealer Lund's Route) | 110m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5c 5+ | ★★ Lys og Skygge | 60m | Lofoten | Average | Mon 1st Aug 2005 | ||||
5c 5+ | ★★★ Forsida | 120m | Lofoten | Thu 5th May 1988 | |||||
Supernice
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5b 5 | ★★★ Gandalf | 100m | Lofoten | Average | Tue 1st Jul 2008 | ||||
5.9 6- | ★★★ Skiløperen (Skiloperen (The Skier)) | 40m | Lofoten | Average | Thu 21st Aug 2003 | ||||
good holds, noting special
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5.10b 6 | ★★★ Lundeklubben (Lundeklubben (The Puffin Club)) | 90m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 10th Jul 2009 | ||||
Fantastic climb. Climbed with Catrine. No major problem with the crux this year.
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5a 5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær (Bare Blabar (Only Blueberries)) | 250m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Appelcake Arete | 60m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5c 5+ | ★ Liten kuling | 20m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sat 19th Jul 2008 | ||||
5c 5+ | ★★ Lys og Skygge | 60m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
4c 4 | ★ Storsvaet (By the dashboard light) | 30m | Lofoten | Average | Sat 19th Jul 2008 | ||||
Easy, but bold!
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5b 5 | ★★★ Gandalf | 100m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Mon 18th Aug 2003 | ||||
Nic warmup
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5.9 6- | ★★★ Skiløperen (Skiloperen (The Skier)) | 40m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Jul 2003 | ||||
5c 5+ | ★★★ Forsida | 120m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 25th Jul 2008 | ||||
4c 4 | ★ Storsvaet (By the dashboard light) | 30m | Lofoten | Average | Sat 19th Jul 2008 | ||||
Easy but bold!
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6 6- | ★ Dagens rett | 70m | Lofoten | Average | Sat 11th Jul 2009 | ||||
The crux felt harder than the onsight...
The second pitch a bit easier and faster than onsight. And more fun.
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5a 5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær (Bare Blabar (Only Blueberries)) | 250m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 1st Jul 2003 | ||||
A3 8- | ★★★ Festivalruta (Sorfuggloya) | 400m | Salten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Ends in loose part of the wall
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5.9 6- | ★★★ Skiløperen (Skiloperen (The Skier)) | 40m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Appelcake Arete | 60m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Jul 2007 | ||||
Led the first pitch, Otto the second. Cliombed it several times before.
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6 6+ | ★★ Spurven | 180m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Superb.
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5.9 6- | ★★★ Guns n' Roses | 90m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.10b 6 | ★★★ Lundeklubben (Lundeklubben (The Puffin Club)) | 90m | Lofoten | Tue 1st Jul 2008 | |||||
Super classic
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4c 4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute (Piano Dealer Lund's Route) | 110m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sun 20th Jul 2008 | ||||
4c 4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute (Piano Dealer Lund's Route) | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5c 5+ | ★★ Lys og Skygge | 60m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th Jul 2008 | ||||
6 6- | ★ Dagens rett | 70m | Lofoten | Average | Sun 17th Aug 2008 | ||||
Climbed with Thorbjørn. Did an easier variation on the top pitch. Almost freaked out on the flakes on the second pitch. Hmmm.
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5.10 5+ | ★★★ Forsida (Svolvaer Geita) | 120m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 25th Jul 2008 | ||||
5.6 5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær (Bare Blabar (Only Blueberries)) | 250m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Apr 2011 |