Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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7+ 6- | ★★★ Sydpillaren | 630m | Ofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 31st May 2008 | ||||
4+ | ★★★ Klubbruta | 200m | Ofoten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 30th May 2008 | ||||
5 5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær | 250m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Mon 2nd Jun 2008 | ||||
7 6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren | 480m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 2nd Jun 2008 | ||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Luzia B. | 480m | Lofoten | Thu 10th Aug 2023 | |||||
Amazing route!
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6c | ★★ Lille vakre anna - with Luzia B. | Lofoten | Sun 13th Aug 2023 | ||||||
7a | ★★ Alkotest - with Luzia B. | 20m | Lofoten | Sun 13th Aug 2023 | |||||
5c | ★★ Baginski spesial - with Luzia B. | Lofoten | Sun 13th Aug 2023 | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Alopølsa — 5 attempts | 20m | Lofoten | Wed 16th Aug 2023 | |||||
6c/c+ ~6c | ★★ Ildvann | 15m | Lofoten | Wed 16th Aug 2023 | |||||
WI4 | ★★★ Høyre linje | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Tue 20th Feb 2024 | |||||
Sick route. Only followed. It was my first proper multi pitch ice climb!
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5 | ★★ Sea Breeze | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Aug 2016 | |||||
long runouts, otherwise very nice
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6 | ★★★ Puffrisset | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 12th Aug 2016 | ||||
3+ | Diederet | 10m | Lofoten | Fri 12th Aug 2016 | |||||
4+ | ★★ Sentrums risset | 10m | Lofoten | Fri 12th Aug 2016 | |||||
5 | Krabbe | 10m | Lofoten | Fri 12th Aug 2016 | |||||
5 | ★★ Rapellruta | 48m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Aug 2016 | ||||
7A+ | ★★★ Marinejegeren | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Wed 15th Jul 2015 | |||||
sablar vad bra
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6C | ★ A trailer by the sea | Lofoten | Sat 9th Aug 2014 | ||||||
2nd go. sharp
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7A | Swamp Thing | Lofoten | Fri 15th Aug 2014 | ||||||
FA? could be easier. obvious line up the crack
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5 | Fiskerisset | Lofoten | Thu 7th Aug 2014 | ||||||
6B+ | ★ Imse vimse spindel | Lofoten | ★ Good | Mon 11th Aug 2014 | |||||
2nd go.
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7A+ | ★★ Presten roof short version | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Aug 2014 | |||||
pumpig och skojig. Rep 10/7-15, bättre i år! Högkvalitativ boulder på perfekt sten. På gränsen till trestjärnig
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7A | ★★★ King fisher | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Mon 6th Jul 2015 | |||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren | 480m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Mon 13th Jul 2015 | ||||
Väldigt kul, speciellt sista hälften. Mycket smearande och avigheter. Den ackumulerade distansen klättrad det senaste året är antagligen på färre höjdmeter än distansen klättrad under denna enda dag... Inga häng i rep. Jag och Katta följde Calle. 7h totalt upp och ner.
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5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær (Bara blåbär) | 250m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Aug 2014 | ||||
ledde pitch 1,2 och 5. skoj och klurigt med snygga sprickor. första trad mp på led! med Calle och Michelle
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6C+ | ★★ Roof reach | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 7th Aug 2014 | |||||
2nd go. blöt dag...
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6C+ | ★★ Slap the Slope | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Aug 2014 | |||||
really good highball-ish slab. not over till you're on the top
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7B+ | ★★★ Slartibartfast | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Aug 2014 | |||||
brilliant, probably the best problem I've climbed so far. in between rainshowers on my last day.
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4+ | ★★★ Nordryggen | 510m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sun 10th Aug 2014 | ||||
12 pitches, huvudsakligen följandes Calle löpande. otroligt mäktigt. annorlunda från något jag gjort tidigare. ca 8h fram och tillbaka. tungt nedåt
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7A | ★ Geitviktaket (Nameless) | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 9th Jul 2015 | |||||
Calles 7b samma kväll, namn?
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6B | Doffen | Lofoten | Mon 24th Jun 2019 | ||||||
6C | ★★ Taktraversen | Lofoten | Thu 7th Aug 2014 | ||||||
pumpy traverse with a somewhat tricky topout
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7A | ★ Rabbadab | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sat 4th Jul 2015 | |||||
vass men fin
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6A | ★ Skrårisset | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 7th Aug 2014 | |||||
6B+ | Hägringen | Lofoten | Sat 4th Jul 2015 | ||||||
5- | ★ Thor | 65m | Sør-Troms | ★ Good | Tue 25th Jul 2023 | ||||
Lovely setting, amazing rock, great to get out of the car
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5+ | Odin | 65m | Sør-Troms | Tue 25th Jul 2023 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Frigg | 65m | Sør-Troms | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Jul 2023 | ||||
Probably my favourite of the five
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5+ | ★ Saga | 65m | Sør-Troms | ★ Good | Tue 25th Jul 2023 | ||||
5+ | ★ Viking | 65m | Sør-Troms | ★ Good | Tue 25th Jul 2023 | ||||
First pitch only
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5+ | ★ Tiril | 55m | Sør-Troms | ★ Good | Wed 26th Jul 2023 | ||||
Ran both pitches together
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5+ | ★★ Sondre | 52m | Sør-Troms | ★★ Very Good | Wed 26th Jul 2023 | ||||
Nice climb, dave ran both pitches together
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5+ | Valhall | 65m | Sør-Troms | Wed 26th Jul 2023 | |||||
6- | Hrafn | 65m | Sør-Troms | Wed 26th Jul 2023 | |||||
Nice flake with interesting exit, good it’s been left trad
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6a | ★★ Panorama cafe | 43m, 15 | Tromsø | ★ Good | Fri 28th Jul 2023 | ||||
Over 35m, pitch one is 30 m, pitch 2 about 15 m. The top bolt bracket is missing but easy to step right into adjacent line for finish anyway
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6a | ★★ Nesheim-ruta | 15m | Tromsø | ★ Good | Fri 28th Jul 2023 | ||||
Seems the main route now on head wall
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7- ~6b+ | ★★ Psycho I — 2 attempts | 15m, 5 | Tromsø | Fri 28th Jul 2023 | |||||
Nails crux, felt more 22 +, given N 7- in local guide. Nice moves, some flaky flakes
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6 | ★ Akrofobi | 26m | Tromsø | ★ Good | Fri 28th Jul 2023 | ||||
Interesting route on some large quartz holds
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5+ | ★ Hilda | 54m | Sør-Troms | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2023 | ||||
Had to get the final route in before we left. Small climbing world, ran into expat kiwi Rick Macgregor, responsible for many fine Kiwi and Australian FAs.
Unfortunately the route has a couple of chips. The crag was the ultimate in consumer climbing, not something to emulate back home.
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4+ | Freya | 57m | Sør-Troms | Average | Thu 27th Jul 2023 | ||||
Dave headed up this in error with only slings as runners. He managed to place two and was welcomed by a “ Gday mate” as he got to the anchor.
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7+ | ★★★ Thanatos | 220m | Tromsø | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 1st Aug 2023 | ||||
Led pitches 1,3,5 all clean. P2 clean. The crux pitch, did all moves free but needed a few ( quite a few) rests. The God of death, that’s how you feel after doing the 45 m overhanging hand crack. Mega classic.
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6- | ★★ Stjerndans | 150m | Tromsø | Tue 1st Aug 2023 | |||||
Quick run up this morning before the weather changed.pitch 1, finally sussed the start, Pitch 2 amazing.P3 some pretty shallow placements.
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5+ | ★ Gallionsruta | 250m | Tromsø | Tue 1st Aug 2023 | |||||
Did this the evening we arrived, always good to suss out the descent route. Ended up “ scrambling” up too far and did first pitch of Varussen before getting onto route. 24 hour daylight is great.
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5- | ★★★ Vårrusen | 150m | Tromsø | Tue 1st Aug 2023 | |||||
Pitch 1 only. ( by mistake), mainly solo, then roped up for the last 5 m when it looked a bit serious.
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5c | ★ Prinsessa | 20m | Tromsø | ★ Good | Thu 3rd Aug 2023 | ||||
Interesting and quite steep.
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6b | ★★ Sekspress | 20m, 10 | Tromsø | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Aug 2023 | ||||
Quite fun and great views
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6a | ★ Sjarmøren | 12m, 8 | Tromsø | ★ Good | Thu 3rd Aug 2023 | ||||
Short but nice
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6 | ★★ På sva er vi alle trist som faen | 20m, 9 | Tromsø | ★ Good | Thu 3rd Aug 2023 | ||||
Interesting slab and corner
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7- | ★ Himmelspretten P1 | 9m | Himmeldalen | ★ Good | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | ||||
Found this harder than the N7. The slopers felt super slippery in the sun
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5 | Oljeberget | 25m | Himmeldalen | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | |||||
Not sure why the rope ladder is there, the start was fine without it. Maybe adds a grade. Nice long route and intro to the rock.
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6+ | ★ St. Peter | 14m | Himmeldalen | ★ Good | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | ||||
Nice roof to start
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7 | ★ St. Pavel | 25m | Himmeldalen | ★ Good | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | ||||
Really enjoying the rock, looks pretty crappy but rewards technique. Reminds of stuff around wanaka
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6+ | ★★ Hulken | 9m | Himmeldalen | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | ||||
Best route of the day, felt twice as long due to right to left and back movement throughout. Pleased with the OS, it kept me fighting.
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6 | ★ Flygende C | 12m | Himmeldalen | ★ Good | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | ||||
Did it without the right chalked up flake and went direct over bolts. Climbed ok but the nearby crack and bolt placements made it feel contrived
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6+ | Ironman | 12m | Himmeldalen | Average | Mon 7th Aug 2023 | ||||
The good bit is quite short
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6- | ★ Batman | 13m | Himmeldalen | ★ Good | Mon 7th Aug 2023 | ||||
The rock looks bad but nothing came off. A steep jug haul
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7+ | ★★ Trusa på utsida — 2 attempts | 14m | Himmeldalen | ★★ Very Good | Mon 7th Aug 2023 | ||||
Had trouble around the fourth bolt, fingers and overhung, shame it’s so far from home!
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6 | ★ Dr. Bruce Banner | 7m | Himmeldalen | ★ Good | Mon 7th Aug 2023 | ||||
Squeezed it in as the rain came. I should know better than to get on 6 m routes. Found it harder than the 6+ route to the right as it is Bouldery rather than pumpy
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6 | ★ Langtrur | 25m, 21 | Himmeldalen | ★ Good | Mon 7th Aug 2023 | ||||
One long pitch. A bit discontinuous
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7- | Trim de eldre — 2 attempts | 15m | Himmeldalen | Mon 7th Aug 2023 | |||||
Got confused by the grid bolting on the wall. This route gets 3 stars in the online guide but unfortunately the concept of hanging space has been neglected making routes either side impinge on the original. Also a loose block through the roof which I was able to avoid.
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5+ A0 | ★★ Senterlinje | 200m | Ofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Aug 2023 | ||||
Unfortunately rained off after second pitch ( kind of predicted but we thought we would try anyway). The first 75m were good
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7 ~7- | ★ Adjöss och tack för fisken | 18m | Ofoten | ★ Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | ||||
Presuming this is the rebolted ex trad route left of Jeppenruta. Not too hard.
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6- | ★ Jepperuta | 18m | Ofoten | ★ Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | ||||
Some steep but good holds
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7 | ★★ Den Lille — 2 attempts | 9m | Ofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | ||||
Short but very much liked it, bouldery the cracky
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6+ | ★★ Escalade feminine | 10m | Ofoten | ★ Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | ||||
Is a 7- in guide but wasn’t too bad ( since I backed up piton with a preplaced long sling.
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6 | ★ Holoholahoy | 15m | Ofoten | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | |||||
Looked deceptively easy. May have been the 25 degree day…
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6a | ★ Mye botanikk | 15m, 7 | Vesterålen | ★ Good | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | ||||
The grade conversion seems out here, 19.
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6a+ | Obelix | 25m | Vesterålen | Average | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | ||||
Grade 20. Stupid finish.
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5 | ★★ Sofaruta | 12m | Vesterålen | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | ||||
Grade 17, very 3D and quite steep
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5 | ★★ Dieder | 16m, 7 | Vesterålen | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | ||||
Doesn’t climb much like a dihedral, lovely wave pocketed rock, grade 18 at least
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6 | ★ Frøken Sverige | 14m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sat 12th Aug 2023 | ||||
Good sequences following Dave
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6- | ★ Blåklokka | 14m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sat 12th Aug 2023 | ||||
Not too bad despite the ledge. I climbed much higher than Dave did before moving to ledge trying to sort rope stuck in crack
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7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje — 2 attempts | 15m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Sat 12th Aug 2023 | ||||
Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.
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6 R | ★ Love Me Two Times | 20m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sun 13th Aug 2023 | ||||
Not a bad route but with the bolts gone not a leadable proposition on the slightly flaky and mossy rock
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6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret — 2 attempts | 20m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sun 13th Aug 2023 | ||||
Nice enough, I was just over boulder hopping trying to follow Rockfax directions to find crags. Very cruxy and reachy. Second go.
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6 | ★★★ Gamle rev | 110m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Mon 14th Aug 2023 | ||||
Led P1, it is really nice once you get to the actual start. P2 has 2 vegetated ramps that detract, and difficult to create top belay, especially if you are on a 60 m rope. I had to simulclimb about 3 m to give Dave enough.
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6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen | 95m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Aug 2023 | ||||
Led P2. P1 and 2 are really nice. P3 a bit average with some suspect rock.
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5c | ★ Fjell og vidde klatring | 15m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 16th Aug 2023 | ||||
A late start after yesterdays rain, and watching the game ( sigh) saw us alone here clipping bolts. Beautiful setting, great featured slabs, good bolts, fresh raspberries on the walk in and easy parking that didn’t leave us grappling with yet another app- what’s not to like
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6c/c+ | ★ Mono Bongo | 20m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 16th Aug 2023 | ||||
Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.
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6a+ | ★★★ Drømmen om Michaela | 20m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 16th Aug 2023 | ||||
Much easier when we got on the right route.
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6b | ★★ Bormeister Fausa | 22m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 16th Aug 2023 | ||||
Really nice climbing as well, with a very funky hold.
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6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren | 480m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 18th Aug 2023 | ||||
First of parties on the route, the down side it was the breeziest day we had encountered in the past 7 weeks. Had planned to lead in blocks of 4 to stay warm, but I was still shivering uncontrollably after 4 pitches which didn’t stop until we got to the sun on pitch 10. Great climb, lots of laybacking but with frictional feet not arduous. The descent takes some energy and down climbing too. I was sick of the back pack by the end of the day
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5+ | ★★ Appelcake Arete | 60m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Aug 2023 | ||||
A bit too much rope drag to do as one long pitch, stopped about 9 m below top. Nice climb
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5+ | ★★ Lys og Skygge | 60m | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Aug 2023 | ||||
Another nice route with convenient rap chains. These routes had been always packed this past week, so we took the opportunity when vacant to do them
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5 | ★★ Rapellruta | 48m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sun 20th Aug 2023 | ||||
Last climb, no one waiting to descend, bouldery start into grade 12 jug haul.
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6+ | ★★★ Englevinger | 85m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Aug 2023 | ||||
Led P2 which was the crux. Missed a footer first time up. P3 has no real off width moves and was steep fun. The description and topo doesn’t make clear the down climb needed to get onto P3
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5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær | 250m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 17th Jul 2015 | ||||
4+ | ★★ 1910 Ruta | 56m | Lofoten | Sat 18th Jul 2015 | |||||
4+ Easy | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute | 110m | Lofoten | Sun 19th Jul 2015 |