Routes as alpine in Shaqsha

5-7 hours from a camp on the glacier plateau.

Approach the south summit and climb the left hand side of the arete, closest to the rock band. Sustained 45 - 60 degree snow leads to the summit. Descend by rappelling the route

Approach the south summit and climb the right side of the arete. Sustained 70 - 75 degree snow and ice leads to the south summit. Descend by rappelling the route.