Routes in Tatry Polskie

Bolted belay.

After the second pitch of Droga Uznańskiego go right. First, easy part of Wakacje w Tybecie is not bolted. Topo: https://wspinanie.pl/topo/polska/tatry/zadni_mnich/wakacje_w_tybecie.htm

From Czarny staw follow the cairned trail towards gully on right side of Zabi Mnich. Walk up the gully to the saddle. The climb easy rocks on southeast ridge to the summit.

Pitches:

6+, 7, 3

A magnificent climb on hard slab with little protection and in steep face with small cramps but well protected. This route is told to be the first route in polish Tatry protected with bolts.

Pitches:

5, 6, 4, 2 (150m)

Belays bolts/pitons, some pitons in the route

Pitches:

4, 6, 5, 5, 4

Second pitch is a classic with delicate climb in cracks. Then a traverse and nice corner climb. Pitons in the route, bolts on belays (first three pitches).

Pitches:

5+, 7-, 7-, 6+

Well protected gymnastic climb. Structured face provides unique moves, some overhangs and another nice face.

1st pitch of multipitch route.

alternative 2-pitches start variant for Droga Blondyna

Second pitch (crux) bolted as an independent dry-tooling route.

https://drytooling.com.pl/baza/topo/tatry/2549-wall-street-czolowka-msw

https://drytooling.com.pl/baza/topo/tatry/6825-ksiazecy-raport-czolowka-msw

https://drytooling.com.pl/baza/topo/tatry/6007-starek-uchmanski-czolowka-msw

https://drytooling.com.pl/baza/topo/tatry/7675-psia-krewka-czolowka-msw

First 3 pitches of Szare Zacięcie, then straight up in last three pitches of Greystone.

https://drytooling.com.pl/baza/topo/tatry/6378-szare-zaciecie-czolowka-msw

https://drytooling.com.pl/baza/topo/tatry/7373-greystone-czolowka-msw

https://drytooling.com.pl/baza/topo/tatry/7372-czarne-zaciecie-czolowka-msw

https://drytooling.com.pl/baza/topo/tatry/7564-get-whacked-czolowka-msw

https://drytooling.com.pl/baza/topo/tatry/5916-miekkie-ruchy-czolowka-msw

Pitches:

2 (150m), 3, 3, 3, 5, 5+, 5, 4, 5, 5+, 4, 3, 3

A classic route in remarkable rock, especially in the middle part - structured face climbing, incredible chimney (komin Kiszkanta) or cracks. For those that already know the main attraction of the route - komin Kiszkanta, there is a variant going to left from the main ledge climbing up a crack for about 50m (6+).

To start the route, climb the buttress (unprotected, grade 2) and traverse grass ledge to right until easy (sign X on the rock). Either start here or continue in harder ground for another 10m to reach the original start.

Bolted belays

Bolted route but some gear may be useful at 1. pitch.

Bolted route, nut necessary on 1. pitch. Camalots no 0.75, 1 and 2 necessary at 4. pitch. Bolts on the end of each pitch. Descriprion: https://wspinanie.pl/2007/07/folwark-montano-na-mnichu/

The Last pitch is not bolted.

1. Pierwsza Rysa, 5+

2. Zacięciem Mierzejewskich, 5

3. Zacięcie Wojsznisa, 6-

4. Plyta, 5

5. Finish, 4

Bolted belays

Start of the route is located on small horizontal plate, close to eye-catching dihedral/corner, equipped with single bolt for belayer. Due to high density of the routes on Mnich ensure yourself that you're on the right route.

1. 25 m III+, straight up till you will reach anchor

2. 35 m IV+, key pitch of the route, on the beginning straight up, following the corner and then transition to the right, then up till you reach easy terrain and anchor. Harder part/transition is well equipped with old hooks.

3. 30 m IV, starting with short traverse to the right and then straight up. Longer sling for anchor might be helpful on the top of this pitch.

4. 40 m IV, last pitch is quite obvious way up, watch for the rope drag, in general it's better to place here less gear, especially in easy part. On this pitch there is one very short harder part (more vertical/reachy) but it's well protected with hooks. There is one obvious place for anchor around 3 m below peak of Mnich, if there is too much rope drag or the top is crowded it's better to use this one as an anchor, otherwise you can go directly up to the top.

Material needed: basic sort of nuts and cams, alpine quickdraws (many extension are required)

Route is interesting, relatively easy, well secured/R1, every anchor is bolted and the route is very popular, therefore queues might be expected.

Bolted belays, otherwise trad. After second pitch it connects to route Klasyczna. Nice cracks, compact rock.

Bolted belays.

Starts at Górne Półki Mnichowe. One bolted pitch to the summit of Mnich.

Route ends up at Górne Półki Mnichowe (the Upper Mnich Ledges). From this point you can go down along normal route or climb to the top with Wacław Spituje or other route.

Kosiński 1973. Start Międzymiastowa. Fixed belay points.

Fully bolted.

Although bolted, it is worth to take some micro nuts and friends.

This is a logical combination of several variants along the central crack:

1. Zacięcie Biela (7), slightly overhaning finger crack with bolts, 20m

2. Skośne Zacięcie (6+), corner crack with bolts, 30m

3. Rysa Hobrzańskiego (7-), incredible slightly overhaning flake, all trad, 40m

4. Corners (5), all trad, 20m

5. Zacięcie Kosińskiego (7), finger crack over compact granite waves. Couple of cruxes, the last being often wet, all trad, 40m

6. Finish (4), 60m

Personally, this is the best climb in the whole mountains.

Original start is on the ledge, but two more pitches (5+, 6) can be added if you rap off route Luftwaffe.

Ice up to 85 deg.

Summer UIAA: IV

Summer UIAA: V

prawą częścią południowo-zachodniej ściany

środkiem południowo-zachodniej ściany

lewym żebrem południowo-zachodniej ściany

prawą częścią środkowego żebra południowej ściany

środkowym żebrem południowej ściany

środkowym żebrem południowej ściany

lewą częścią środkowego żebra południowej ściany

przez płytową załupę i południową depresję

środkową częścią południowej ściany