Routes in Portugal for selected grade

Name: Madeiran word for potato.

[P] Chaminé óbvia no lado direito.

Obvious chimney on right side.

[P] The right hand groove.

O sulco da mão direita.

You could check the topo here. Source: Climbing Portugal. You need friends and nuts.

1. The climb begins on a slab beneath a small corner. There's a block at the top that appears loose but is secure. After reaching the top, we proceed straight to pass a slight edge. At the base, we can protect ourselves and move up to the upper section where there's a bolt. Continuing on the slab, we veer slightly to the right towards the corner at the base of a large block. Here, we reinforce the belay using a friend in the nearby crack.

2. We traverse around the right side of the block and then ascend some steps that lead to the friction slab above (a point of interest on the route). We aim for the crack that cuts from right to left and find the belay anchors on the left side.

Material:

• 60-meter ropes
• Set of friends
• Set of nuts
• 8 quickdraws
• Slings for extensions

Top anchor equipped. You should have some way to protect your rope and material to equalize the anchor point.

"Variante Borboletas" is a variant of the climbing route "Borboletas" with a shorter length of 8 meters. To tackle this variant, climbers will need nuts and medium-sized friends devices to protect themselves during the ascent. The route is equipped with top anchors, providing a secure anchor point.

Requires medium-sized friends and nuts for gear placements. The top of the route lacks fixed anchors, so climbers must take precautions to create their own anchor or find alternative methods for a safe descent. Caution is advised when navigating the non-equipped top section, emphasizing the importance of possessing the necessary skills and equipment.

The recommended gear for this route includes nuts and medium-sized friends devices. The top of the route is equipped with fixed anchors, ensuring a secure belay and descent.

This route requires the use of medium-sized friends and nuts for gear placements. The top of the route is well-equipped with fixed anchors, providing a convenient and secure descent.

This route is equipped with fixed anchors at the top and requires gear placements such as medium-sized nuts and friends for protection.

No intermediate bolts. Anchor equipped with two tensor bolts.

1. L1 (10m) - IV

2. L2 (25m) - V (left) or IV+ (right)

No intermediate bolts. Anchor equipped with two tensor bolts.

No intermediate bolts. Anchor equipped with two tensor bolts.

Start on the right of Incendio Florestal. Ends at Naspter top anchor. Douple ropes recomended

P1 sport (7 bolts), P2 trad.

[P] Uma rota de nível inferior, ideal para iniciar a escalada de chumbo. Possível fazer um segundo arremesso e sair por cima (mudança tradicional necessária para o segundo arremesso).

A lower grade route, ideal for starting lead climbing. Possible to do a second pitch and exit on top (trad gear required for the second pitch).

Name: Madeiran expression meaning sphincter.

Easier Route with closer bolts.

Everything is easy until you get to the bulge. Not super hard but definitely above grade 4. It looks like some good holds have fallen above the bulge as there are marks of broken rocks.

3 glue ins bolts and anchor.

[P] Sistema de rachadura à direita da arete levando ao canto suspenso final.

Crack system right of the arete leading into final hanging corner.

Start left of "Acção indirecta" then traverse left and climb up the chimney until reaching the anchor of "Penso logo desisto"

Name: Madeiran expression meaning child or small.

The last two bolts before the route top anchor are a little bit distanced and for people that are not comfortable to lead climbing on those conditions it's recommended to protect using trad climbing material. At least 2 small nuts, 1 medium but there is space for a small friend. The usage of friends on this route isn't recommended because the route has some parts that the rock is cracked.