Routes in Slovakia for selected grade

Trad ridge climb with some pitons.

#SD

#SD

From Jastrabie sedlo (pass) to East Ridge (Wschod.Graň, Ostengrat)

Climb the deep gully at right part of the face. In the end turn left to reach the top of the face and walk up to the summit.

The ice is some 40m left to Mrozekov lad

1. Several steep sections of some 6 meters, otherwise snow

2. Nice steep ice

Dlouhý žlab vhodná na zimu spevným sněhem (lavinový). Omezené možnosti jištění, leze se bez. Spíše II UIAA kromě příčného prahu cca v 1/2 a ledu pod Čertovou lavinovou lávkou. Dál por normálce na Gerlach.

A classic ridge route that leads to the highest point in Slovakia.Difficult route finding.Begins at Litvorove Sedlo-2385m, Litvorova Veza-2547m,Velka Litvorova Veza-2581m,Zadni Gerlach-2616m,Gerlachsky Stit-2654m. Fantastic, exposed and the views are excellent. The climbing is not difficult.Takes about 8 hours. Begin early!!

There is one short rock section in lower part (5m) and a longer easier part in the right upper part.

Druhé žebro od Ostrvy nastoupíme z pravé strany. Po dvou délkách sledujeme žebro až na hřeben.

Sestupovka z cest a nástup na hřebenovku Ošarpanců.

Krásná hřebenovka, tatranská klasika bez jištění s výjimkou několika slaňáků ze smyček. Chodí se průběžným jištěním od Zlomiskové veže pod Dračie sedlo.

SE gully is an obvious easily accessible gully. On the trail through Zlomiská dolina, turn left when you reach the first plateau, the gully is straight up.

The route is mostly on snow except for one interesting rocky section in the middle of the gully (3). Then another rocky section is when the route connects to the west gully before reaching the summit.

Climb up obvious gully in the west face up to the summit. Gully is easy, only last 30m require protection (3).

Climb up the central gully. Keep left at the higher parts. From a small saddle climb through a wide crack (harder) or left to the summit.

Climb the buttress left to main gully.

Straight up the left gully. Several rocky sections that require protection.

Along the south ridge. Mostly easy, several climbing sections and raps.

1. pitch is rappel 12 m to Žabie sedlo/pass

2. II-, 40 m

3. III, 60 m (or 25x2)

4. II, 35 to top

Lehká cesta s borhákovými štandy

In east face on right side of the main gully climb easy edge until final chimney.

Západným hrebeňom z Temnosmreč./Piargové štrbiny

Križuje Petíciu aj Kardiaka a po hrane Nosu pokračuje na vrchol. Najľahšia línia v stene. Zdroj: Sprievodca Garamboš

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