Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Via ferrata | |||||
{UIAA} C | Pot Silva Korena | 650m | Krn | ||
Trad | |||||
{UIAA} 3 - 4+ | Deržajeva smer | 300m | Mala Mojstrovka | ||
{UIAA} 3 - 6- | Kamenkov Kamin
FA: Borut Hvala & Dragan Vukovič, 1971 | 120m | Nad Šitom Glava | ||
{UIAA} 3 - 4 | Smer po kaminih
Equipped: Belay stations and intermediate protection with old pitons A brief description Entrance to a distinctive chimney, which is divided into two parts below. On the left branch up (on the right leads a slightly more demanding variant) and on the boulder. Continue over the overhang and left into a gravel gutter. After an easy ravine up to a narrow black and usually also a wet chimney. By stemming and back-and-foot climbing (20m) up to the gravel hollow. Continue along with the dissected, crumbling chimney to a wide gravel ravine. You can follow it to the last chimney in the direction. Across the entrance of the chimney on the right and up to the wedged rock. Continue along the chimney, which is becoming more and more fragmented to a gravelly hollow. Here it is possible to exit left on the Hanseatic path (20m for the edge and up II-III) or further in the ravine area up (100m II-III) to the edge of the wall. Entry From Vršič on the way to the ridge. At the gate, turn left along the path that leads under the wall above Nad Šitom glave and further under the northern wall of Mala Mojtrovka. FA: Oskar Kalteneger & Pavel Kalteneger, 1914 | 300m | Mala Mojstrovka | ||
{UIAA} 5 | ★★ Steber ob Kamenkovem kaminu
FA: Matjaž Deržaj & Tone Štamcar, 1980 | 120m, 4, 4 | Nad Šitom Glava | ||
{UIAA} 4- MIXED:M5 | Severni raz+Kaminska
1
3 M5
2
4-
3
70°/50°
The belay stations are equipped with pitons. | 350m, 3 | Mala Mojstrovka | ||
{UIAA} 3 - 4 | Severni raz
Recently, there was a landslide in the direction over the second stretch. Ridge broke up into blocks (including bolts) for a short time. There are a lot of stones and sand on the lower part. The direction is fully equipped, the bolts are marked with red circles. Because the distances between them are occasionally quite large, some butterflies will not harm sports climbers. https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/severni-raz/ https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/mala-mojstrovka-nordkante/ FA: Hintsteiner & O. Malnitz, 1926 | 300m, 11, 6 | Mala Mojstrovka | ||
{UIAA} 4 | ★ Kranjska poč | 250m, 5 | Nad Šitom Glava | ||
{UIAA} 4+ | Varianta Severnega raza
The amount of equipment needed depends on each individual climber and his need for protection (mental condition). However, it is definitely recommended that you enter the wall at least with basic mountaineering equipment. The route is not equipped. Entry Entrance through a deep gutter - chimney. FA: Maks Medja, Franjo Novak in Ciril Praček, Franjo Novak & Ciril Praček | 200m | Mala Mojstrovka | ||
{UIAA} 4 - 5+ | Jeseniška smer
Lots of old pitons in the route. The main pitch has a big crack, good to have a Cam #3. | 150m, 4 | Nad Šitom Glava | ||
{UIAA} 4 | Pocarska
FA: Rajko Lotrič & Raf Kolbl | 200m, 6, 9 | Mala Mojstrovka | ||
{UIAA} 3 - 4+ | Spominska smer Janeza Robiča
The route runs in the right part of the north wall. It offers a pleasant climb of moderate difficulty on a fairly good scale. Above it joins Severni raz, with which the last two stretches have in common. Entry In the ravine, which leads below the Severni raz, we climb another 20m. We enter the ramp on the left. Descent On the way to the top of M. Mojstrovka or down the Hanzova a) along the Hanzova to the end b) between NŠG and M. Mojstrovka along the path to Vršič FA: Matija Oman & Jože Rožič, 1972 | 350m | Mala Mojstrovka | ||
{UIAA} 8 | Rumena Diagonalka
4-5h FA: Andrej Božič, Matjaž Deržaj 1979. & Matjaž Deržaj, 1979 FFA: Andrej Erceg & Tomaž Jakofčič, 2010 | 200m, 8 | Nad Šitom Glava | ||
{UIAA} 4+ | ★ Pstuh
FA: Darko Bernik & Mirko Klinar, 8 Aug 2015 | 200m, 4, 8 | Mala Mojstrovka | ||
{UIAA} 3 - 4 | Zahodni raz
The route is equipped, it is recommended to have a wedge with you because on some stands the old pitons are quite wobbly and ridged. Equipment of the route Stands and intermediate protection with pitons. From the stump between the peak which is shifted to the north and the masterpiece after the cut into the wall, when we see pitons in the white wall we follow them around the ravine, then right along the ravine to the little man, a little above the little man the river to the left and then stretch along the ravine to the top. FA: Pavla Jesih, Joža Čop. Stanko Tominšek, Joža Čop, Stanko Tominšek & Danilo Martelanc, 1927 | 300m | Mala Mojstrovka | ||
{UIAA} 6- | Spominska Srečku Rihterju
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3
2
2
3
6-
4
5+
5
5
6
4+
7
4+
8
2
3h, Pitons. Rock is "solid", a third chimney pitch might be easier without a backpack on your shoulders. https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/spominska-srecku-rihterju/ FA: Robi Kot & Slavko Svetičič, 1983 | 300m, 8 | Nad Šitom Glava | ||
{UIAA} 3 - 5+ | Biljard
FA: Tatjana Cerar & Tomo Virk | 200m | Mala Mojstrovka | ||
{UIAA} 4+ | Debelakove
https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/smer-debelakove/ https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/smer-debelakove-grosse-mojstrovka/ FA: Sergej Černivec, Mira Marko Debelak, Edo Deržaj & Živko Šumer, 1932 | 500m | Velika Mojstrovka | ||
{UIAA} 4 - 6+ | Guru
Entrance 30 m to the right of the western ravine. After the dismembered overhanging wall into the abyss below the overhang. Left along the shaft 15 m, then straight up over the overhang into the lighter world (a medium-sized pin is recommended for protection at this point, preferably two). 60 m to the right and up over the slabs behind the arete/ridge, then to the left and over the overhang into the ravine. Continue along the ravine to the edge of the wall. Entry In the direction of West ridge along the ravine and scree up to the saddle. We then descend to the other side approximately 50 m down into the entrance to the left corner of the roof (which is halfway up the wall). Descent Left down the Hanseatic path to the saddle between Mala Mojstrovka and Nad Šitom Glavo. Then we turn right down towards Vršič and soon we come across a well-trodden path that leads us to the scree below Grebenc and further towards Tičarjev dom to Vršič. FA: Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo & Pavle Kozjek | 250m | Mala Mojstrovka | ||
{UIAA} 5 | Riba
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4
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2
3
5
4
5-
5
2
6
2
7
2
https://www.slovenskestene.si/smer/riba/ FA: Janez in Tatjana Cerar, Tomo Virk, Rozi Lesnika in Gregor Kotnik, Rozi Lesnika & Gregor Kotnik, 1987 | 250m, 7 | Nad Šitom Glava | ||
{UIAA} 4+ | ★★ Jugozahodni raz
1
3
50m
2
3+
55m
3
2
30m
4
4-
55m
5
4+
50m
6
3
50m
7
2
20m
http://www.primorskestene.com/?mod=catalog&id=652&action=viewRout&action_id=87&language=sl&lang=sl FA: F. H. Müller & L. Drexel, 1927 Maint: 2012 | 310m, 7, 14 | Mangart | ||
{UIAA} 5+ | Smer po zajedi
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5+
2
5
3
4
4
5
5
4+
6
4+
7
5
8
2
9
1
| 300m, 9 | Nad Šitom Glava | ||
Sport | |||||
6b+ | Cvetko | 15m | Pri Zvikarju | ||
5c | ★ Nevihta
| 9m | Pri Plajerju | ||
5a | Sove | 19m | Kanin | ||
6b | ★ Velika baba | 10m | Kegl | ||
4b | Raft | 7m | Kal Koritnica | ||
7a+ | Mutanti s Parmove | 22m | Kobarid | ||
6a | ★★ Ginfrnis | 12m | Kal Koritnica | ||
6a+ | Thriller | 15m | Pri Ciginju | ||
6c | Lejdra | 10m | Kegl | ||
6b | Rožmarinova štiri | 12m | Kanin | ||
7a | Soška fronta | 28m | Kobarid | ||
6b+ | Mojca | 18m | Vršič | ||
7b+ | Miss Žage | 15m | Pri Zvikarju | ||
4c | ★ Čukec
| 6m | Pri Plajerju | ||
4c | Vitez ponočnjak | 21m | Kanin | ||
6a+ | Kanin | 10m | Kegl | ||
5a | ★★ Veslo | 7m | Kal Koritnica | ||
6b | Low fat | 22m | Kobarid | ||
5c | ★★★ Rezjanko | 12m | Kal Koritnica | ||
6c+ | Ime roze | 15m | Pri Ciginju | ||
6c+ | Krašnje ugarano | 10m | Kegl | ||
Kamen modrosti | 12m | Kanin | |||
7c | Poetova | 28m | Kobarid | ||
6c | Kekec gre na pot
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5a
2
6a
3
6c
| 60m, 3 | Vršič | ||
6a+ | Maticova | 5m | Pri Zvikarju | ||
4c | ★ Požar
| 6m | Pri Plajerju | ||
5a | Žrebokljun | 21m | Kanin | ||
5b+ | ★★ Pestreljenik | 10m | Kegl | ||
4a | ★★ Soča | 7m | Kal Koritnica | ||
6b | Življenje je praznik | 18m | Kobarid | ||
5b | 13 13 | 10m | Kal Koritnica | ||
7a+ | ★★★ Ime roze Varianta | 15m | Pri Ciginju | ||
6a | Violinca
FA: Tomo Česan & Dragica B. Česen, 7 Jul 2020 | 120m, 4 | Nad Šitom Glava | ||
6a+ | Kožarca | 10m | Kegl | ||
6b | Okno izgine | 12m | Kanin | ||
8a+ | To.mas | 28m | Kobarid | ||
7b | Armageddon | 28m | Vršič | ||
5a | Vroce poletje | 10m | Pri Ciginju | ||
7b+ | Hči planin
| 12m | Pri Plajerju | ||
6a+ | Ognjena strela | 20m | Kanin | ||
6a+ | ★ Pepi | 10m | Kegl | ||
7a | Ples v dežju | 16m | Kal Koritnica | ||
6c | Na robu sveta | 25m | Kobarid | ||
5c | ★★ Pink Panter | 10m | Kal Koritnica | ||
6b+ | ★★ Razklana resnicnost | 15m | Pri Ciginju | ||
5a | Frida (je bila moja kozica) | 10m | Kegl | ||
5b | Čarobna palica | 12m | Kanin | ||
7c | Tomažev žegen | 28m | Kobarid | ||
4a | Zajeda (1.del) | 24m | Vršič | ||
4c | Vroce poletje Variante | 10m | Pri Ciginju | ||
7c | ★★ Sašo optimist
| 12m | Pri Plajerju | ||
6b+ | Pri počenem kotlu | 19m | Kanin | ||
Varianta Požen'! | 16m | Kal Koritnica | |||
6b | Nine pieces of eight | 25m | Kobarid | ||
5b | ★★ Mokra drowa | 10m | Kal Koritnica | ||
6b | Skubinova pravljica | 15m | Pri Ciginju | ||
4a | ? | 15m | Kegl | ||
5c | Skozi loputo | 11m | Kanin | ||
7b+ | Blažev žegen | 27m | Kobarid | ||
5c | Zajeda
1
4a
2
5c
| 50m, 2 | Vršič | ||
5a | ★★ Robida | 10m | Pri Ciginju | ||
6b | ★★ Soča express
| 14m | Pri Plajerju | ||
7a+ | Sirius Black | 19m | Kanin | ||
6c+ | Tihi teden | 16m | Kal Koritnica | ||
6b | Mali bogovi | 16m | Kobarid | ||
5a | ★★ Baby papa | 10m | Kal Koritnica | ||
4c+ | Zivalska | 15m | Pri Ciginju | ||
4c | Belorepka | 15m | Kegl | ||
5b | Noč čarovnic | 11m | Kanin | ||
7b+ | Uspavanka | 27m | Kobarid | ||
6a | Zajeda s platami | 130m | Vršič | ||
6c | Ekologija | 10m | Pri Ciginju | ||
6c+ | ★★ Antichre sere
Not to be underestimated. Technical. | 16m | Pri Plajerju | ||
7a | Ravbarjeva karta | 18m | Kanin | ||
6c | ★★ Ukročena trmoglavka | 12m | Kal Koritnica | ||
6c+ | Otroci višin | 15m | Kobarid | ||
5a | ★★★ Martinckova | 10m | Kal Koritnica | ||
6a | ★★ Cerkjanska | 15m | Pri Ciginju |