Routes as trad in Langkloof

Mixed route - 3 bolts on pitch 2.

1. 20m (18) Climb lay-back overlap from sloping slab on railway line past 2 small roofs. Pull right to a stance on a steeply-sloping ledge. Gear is a tad thin.

2. 23m (17) Climb diagonally left from the stance, over a bulge, and then diagonally up to the right on easy ground. Move up on small holds and flakes, clipping 3 bolts near the top.

Vertical pile of creaky rubble - not worth chancing your skin...

Rap anchors placed.

To right of '1908' graffiti.

Start to the left of an obvious nose towards the left of the crag, the climb goes under the nose from the left and then climbs the open book to the left of the nose (as you look at the crag.

1. 25m (19) Climb diagonally up to the right, immediately below the overhang formed by the overhanging nose. Make an exposed move to the left to gain a ledge at the level of the overhang. Ascend the left-facing open book for about 7m and move right onto the bridge of the nose at a small bush. The stance is another 3m or so above this.

2. 20m (17) Climb directly up an obvious fault line, pulling through the right side of a small overhang to gain a ledge with a huge balanced flake.

3. 25m (20) climb the obvious and manky right-facing open book, making use of a crack for protection. Make an awkward move onto a sloping ledge. Climb up and to the left of a tree and awkwardly gain a chossy ledge on the left. Move right to regain the fault and ascend the wide crack above to a big grassy ledge.

4. 30m (14) Scramble up easy rock to easy ground on the ridge. Descent via the gully to the west of the crag.