Routes in Tranquilitas

The obvious roof crack with easier headwall.

A long crack climb to the right of 'Sweet Plumb'. Start same as for 'Sweet Plumb' (don't clip those bolts) up the crack to the excrement. Instead of going left up 'Sweet Plumb', climb right the rib up to the ledge that shares chains with 'Thorns Between the Roses'. Climb the corner crack to the cubby hole/chimney. Top out and walk down the gulley. Standard rack supplemented with doubles/triples of #2/#3 BD cams. Good Gear

Start 18m left of Malaria at an undercut base between some trees under the obvious roof crack in the sky. Climb the face up to a small stance under a left-leaning corner. Climb the corner till forced to the arête out right. Climb face till stance under the roof. Traverse left into roof crack and up.

The first line on this face, probably now partially occupied by 'Toolbox' (above). Scramble up left past the start of 'Rodan', to a narrow ledge. Start on the left of the ledge, just left of the stacked blocks. Straight up a short face, though the overlap and up to below the roof. Rail left to the break in the roof, pull up to the next rail, and then move back right until you can pull up onto the grey ramp. Move slightly left and up the narrow, brown corner, stepping right at the top. Finish up the face between the aloes to the top.

The obvious chimney right of 'Cool Runnings'.

Start 5m right of 'Angular', off a small block deep in the chimney. Diagonally left out of the cleft and up to the anchors. The direct start (2 separate bolts) submits to some grunty technique at about 15 [**].

Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on top rope with belayer at top.

Start 8m right of 'Grunt'. Dynamic start onto jugs can also be done statically if tall (to cheat: use the tree or traverse from the right). Climb a few meters to a ledge, then some face moves to chains. Awesome photo opportunity of climb, from ledges out right of chains.

Start just right of 'Mel', following U-bolts up diagonally rightwards then up to anchor.

Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge.

Start left of the bolt ladder to the foot rail, as for 'Boy'. Continue up the easy notched arêtelette in the face. It gets thinner at the top, going up slightly left to a better hold. Could be harder for short climbers.

Starts on a pile of rocks 3m left of 'Biogalactic Gobbleblaster'. Power through the roof and traverse diagonally up to slabs above.

Start at a fig about 3m right of 'Burnout'. Diagonally right up to the easier ground. Up and left to the notched overhang and anchors.

The leftmost line up the long leaning face... At the ledge 8 metres up, look out over the forest, take a deep breath then immerse yourself in 25 metres of pumping orange rock-karate. Opened at 34 but 33 with new sequence on crux.

📹 Video

Climbs through a series of overlaps on good red rock on the left hand side of the buttress.

Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing.

Not as closely bolted as most other climbs at 'The Creche'.

Start 1m right of 'Lucy'.

Can you hold the smallest holds in Boven? Starts up the tree right of 'Grizzly Behr'. Clip 1st bolt then use the tree to gain the good rail up and right. Move left then up to a good hold to clip the second bolt…..now brace your fingers and hang on, just barely.

As for 'Kajboy' to 5th bolt. Continue up straight or slightly right, via a 2cm foothold and Rright slanting crimp to a hard finish. Will be harder still for shorter climbers.

Shares a start with 'I Feel Rocks'. Use the tree to get onto the overlap. Join up with the final moves on 'Biogalactic Gargleblaster'.

Tagged. Sustained - this may be the best slab route under 22 at Boven. At a pocketed crack in the smooth slab, up to the overlap and pull through off a block.

Boven‟s 'King Line'. Climb up behind the tree to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10-move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. It is possible to move off-line to a jug far right just before the crux but this is a kop-out and would be graded 30/31.

Ascend up grey face in the middle of the buttress.

Starts up a creeper fig tree and into the chimney.

Looks like a nightmarish, downward-flaring, overhanging chimney. A happy surprise awaits you. Start at the back of the chimney 6m right of the bolt ladder. Up and traverse outwards on footrails. Beware loose stones deep in the slot. It may be necessary for the 2nd to follow to clean this route.

From the ledge below the open book, head left onto the steep face.

Climb up to the ledge above the bolt ladder. Not using the tree or ladder is 13. Up to the smaller ledge and stem the gap to gain the arête on the other side. Up this on ring bolts noting the (safe!) stacked blocks at top.

Start 5m right of the previous climb up the obvious layback crack in the big recess just before the scramble out of the crag. Follow bolts diagonally right.

This climb is 2-3m left of 'Als Bells' and perhaps 10m downhill on a west-facing slab. 2-3m right of 'Hotspot' there is a weakness up to the high 1st bolt; climb thinly to the anchors above the overlap.

The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! The only line with ring bolts. Not many small holds on this one, but an absolute pump-fest. Slightly harder (and even better) since the chockstone fell out but still 29.

Climb through bulge using hidden handholds to reach upper face and interesting features.

Climb the fun chimney left of 'Woodchoppers and Waterbearers' and discover the cave system. Protected by 4 U-bolts on 'Brutus', then 3 U-bolts inside the chimney. Use anchors above and left of the cleft.

Start 2m right of 'Excuse Me While I Kiss the Sky'

Start up the groove from the blocky ledge behind the tree. Take care clipping the high first bolt. Climb the face followed by a roof.

Not such a pretty face when viewed through the fig tree. But the upper section has great climbing. Negotiate the blocky little corner 2m right of 'I.M.O. Julius' thru the fig tree to access this narrow face between 2 chimney lines. Take care with some of the blocks down low.

Direct version of 'Stitch it'. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. A power test-piece.

At a lower level than the 8m gully, about 40m around to the left. Climb the corner crack with classic (traddy!) moves.

Start up 'Monster' and move right at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'man trap' then finger jugs diagonally to the chains. 70 m rope needed. Low in the grade if you use all the latest tricks. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag.

Climb up through groove to good face climbing above.

Climb up the right arête. Avoid using opposite side of chimney. Then move right onto the face after the small roof.

10m right of 'Excuse Me While I Kiss The Sky' is a big right facing corner/chimney. Climb up tree roots into chimney.

From the ledge below the open book, traverse one move right and up the groove.

Start up 'Brutus' for 5 U-bolts, stepping left onto 'Darth' face just above the fig tree, just below the crux sequence. These are very sweet moves, lay-backing right and left.

Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the middle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross, no feet, go and believe move.

Start 1-2m left of the left hand crack, then follow it to anchors.

Not the Steve McClure 9a but pretty cool. Climbs 'The Beast' until 2/3 height then shoot straight up the strenuous crack. A nice variation on the original. 31 if you can get the jams right? use a 70m rope

On the buttress around the corner from 'Antivirus'. Navigate a series of awkward cruxes to finish on the same chains as 'Asymptomatic'.

Start about 3m right of 'Palaver'.

Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff.

Climb the chimney, as for 'Cesar', but stay outside the cleft, stemming left onto 'Just Another Pretty Face' to avoid moving into the bowels of the earth, where the climb steepens. Up to anchors just left of the cleft.

26-28 Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves, nice route. Harder if you use less holds on the arête like the FA; opened at 28.

The right crack.

A massive climb for the space cadets amongst us. A bit of everything from technical arête, burly roof, gnarly crack, exposed handrailing, leaning face..a fantastic ride...Use long slings on the 3 bolts before/in the roof section - that way drag is negligible. There are half height lower off chains. 70 m rope needed.

Just left of 'I.M.O. Julius'. Route name on first bolt.

Start on top of the large block. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge, continue on to good anchors.

About 10m R of 'Aapstreke' is a bolt line up a corner right of a steep gully.

Starts to the left of the tree. A tricky looking first few meters on is on dolerite (an igneous rock), changing to quartzite after the 3rd bolt.

About 3m right of the cracks is a large right-facing corner.

Open project, an extension of 'Freak Show', through the massive overhangs. Only 2-3 metres unsolved to date. Could avoid the 'Freakshow' crux by branching left off 'The Juggernaut'.

Starts on the large block in the middle of the path. Climb slightly left to start off.

Tagged. Follow the path around the corner 25m to the right of the 'Aapstreke' chimney. Climb the small open book and skirt the overlap on the right.

Climb the face on right of '2020'. Start on the tree branch (or not) May be harder for short people. Shares chains with '2020'.

Just right of 'Brolloks', great, bit cruxier than 'Brolloks'. Climb up to the ledge then move left after 4th bolt, and up bolts up to your left. Can also use the 'Brolloks' start.

5m right of the major corner, follow the bolts starting up a short corner. There is a 3 bolt variant start 2m left (starting 3m right of the corner).

Scramble up roots just left of 'Rodan'. Harder from the ledge after that.

Just right of 'Up in Smoke'. Share chains with 'Pretenders'.

Overbolted? Could be your 1st 16. Pull onto the face 1m right of TOL. Continue up the slab, 1st slightly left, then up. The holds become a bit thin just before the anchor.

Start as for 'Kannie-Ballistic' but head up straight through the roofs.

Just right of 'Groenie Die Drakie'. Again, climb 4 bolts then move left and up.

Climb the arête/face just right of the 'When You Need It' corner.

Steep start 2m left of 'Bush Fire'.

Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof.

Use the 1st pitch of 'Gungadin' up to the belay ledge. Follow the P-bolts up the middle of the face.

First route after 'Logger Sports', on the side of the trail.

Start 2 m left of 'Freak On'. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs.

Scramble 10m up the blocks left of the steep open book. Climb the obvious crack. Opened on Trad. [ GPS: S25 40 30.6 E30 22 11.1]

This lil number starts just left of 'The Huffing Warthog' and rails out to anchors at the ledge on the left arête of this beautiful face. Top rope to clean. Options: Climb the last part of 'Om te Pee en om te Poep'; or rap off. Another 2 anchors higher up await the enthusiastic boulderer who will tackle the arête.

Starting at a multi-stemmed tree, climb the curved crack to an aloe. Step left onto the ledge with a block, climb the face following the corner for 15m. Rail out left on face up to an ab tree. Take plenty small gear.

Take your thinking cap - very technical and balancey. Starts up a crease 2m right of 'Smoke At Dawn' at 'Bush Fire'. Step up left after 4th bolt toward the arête to finish at 'Smoke At Dawn' anchors.

Climb first 5 bolts with 'Pretenders', clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at higher anchors for (harder) direct finish.

1. [18] XXm

   This ledge can be used to climb all pitches above – 2 extra bolts lead leftward back to 'Sonny Boy'. The ledge can be accessed more easily at ~ grade 11 by starting up 'Sonny Boy' then heading right after the 4th bolt – to practice 2 pitch climbing. [7D]

2. [19] XXm

   From the belay, go diagonally right up the slab. This steepens below a corner, which is followed up to the anchors. The 2 pitches can easily be done as one [16D]

2m right from 'Vaxxer'. It follows the arête.

Shares the first 3 bolts of 'Freak On' and then continues straight up through 3 roofs with a hard crux after clipping the last bolt (which has a fixed quickdraw).

The obvious undercut open book. It looks harder than it climbs. Takes good gear. This and other climbs here are in shade from noon in the summer. Opened on trad

The extension of 'M J'. In its current state, loose and unpleasant. BEWARE! Don’t climb it. Natural Anchor

Climbs the slabby wall approx 50m right of 'Wasp Warriors'.

Tagged. Start at the crease. At 4th bolt, go straight up face into a tiny corner and the right hand anchors.

Start at the base of the chimney that becomes 'Up Alard's Crack'. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. The bolts leading straight up on the headwall is an open project. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag.

20? From the belay, go diagonally right up the slab. This steepens below a corner, which is followed up to the anchors. The 2 pitches can easily be done as one [16D].

Start in the middle of God-No, a few meters left of 'Freak Show'. Climb the steep arete to a technical crux and bust through to chains under the massive roof.

Badly bolted weak effort about 3m left of 'Goose On a Loose'.

Mega classic! Crimps to the ledge then move right then take the rightwards slanting weakness and much pump. The route remains dry during heavy rain but may seep a little.

Climbs the front nose of the buttress 5m right of 'Als Bells'. Climbs diagonally up left past the loose looking “big guy” and onto the face. Opened on trad

Shares the 1st 3 bolts with 'Arielle'. Climb up left on the right hand edge of the nice-looking smooth face to anchors on the left wall at 3/4 height, about 8m right of 'The Huffing Warthog'.

Starts at the right hand end of the obvious long roof. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains!

Starts up 'Bush Fire' at the tiny fig tree, break right across the corner at 4th bolt to join 'Bonfire'. Climb past the 1st anchors to the top.

Short face climb below the big roof, rails out right a bit after the final bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain.

Start up 'Walking on Sunshine' curving crack at the multi-stemmed tree for 4m, then right through the rooflet, and straight up to anchors.

Open project. Extension of BBB through endless roofs.