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Routes in Power Struggle Sector

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Showing all 29 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Trad
23 Power Struggle

This interesting and quite hard route ascends the face directly below the only prominent overhanging prow. Move directly up and through two sets of overhangs on strenuous and gymnastic moves using large cams for protection. End at a nice platform. Originally the route had 2 pitons which were removed in 2010, after consensus that the route could be adequately protected.

FA: Hilton Davies, 2008

Trad 20m Lion's Head
17 Cloud Number 39

Between Heavy Breather and Poke in the Eye are is a narrow inset face with a crack on each side. Follow the left crack and then straight to the top.

FA: Richard Halsey, R. Straite & Elle, Aug 2019

Trad 20m Lion's Head
21 Eight Eighteen

Between Heavy Breather and Poke in the Eye are is a narrow inset face with a crack on each side. Follow the right crack to a brown patch of rock. Continue straight past one blocky overlap to a second overlap. Pull through and step right to finish up the grey face.

FA: Richard Halsey, R. Straite & Elle, Aug 2019

Trad 20m Lion's Head
17 Heavy Breather

FA: D. Mecer & Scurvy, 2007

Trad 25m Lion's Head
15 Uncle Albert

FA: W. Koen & Tony Lourens, 2010

Trad 20m Lion's Head
16 Feathered Delight

FA: J Papendorf, 2010

Trad 20m Lion's Head
15 Poke in the Eye

FA: phlip olivier, 2010

Trad 20m Lion's Head
16 The Inspirer

FA: J. Fisher, R. Vorster & Tony Lourens, 2011

Trad 20m Lion's Head
14 Windy Block

FA: J Papendorf, 2010

Trad Lion's Head
13 Silke

FA: R. Vorster, W. Mayers & Tony Lourens, 2011

Trad Lion's Head
15 Boris the Bullet Dodger

The route follows the obvious crack line a few meters left of Cold War. Pull straight through the bulge (a little strenuous) below the vertical crack higher up. Continue straight up the crack to the top.

FA: A. van der Heever & W. Boshoff, 2012

Trad 20m Lion's Head
13 Heatwave

FA: D. Mecer & A. Wienand, 2007

Trad Lion's Head
18 Skink Inc.

Climb a direct line up the face (steep start) to the right of Rodney.

FA: Richard Halsey, 2012

Trad Lion's Head
16 Vein Enthusiast

Start between Heatwave and Boris the Bullet Dodger. Pull onto the face and at the small overlap step left then up easily to a ledge. Climb the face above between the crack lines.

FA: Richard Halsey & M. Bosman, Sep 2016

Trad Lion's Head
22 Ayoba

Starts as per Political Solution. After 5m break diagonally left over the blank face to the far left rails. Follow the thin crack to the top. A committing lead as the first gear is about 10 metres up.

FA: phlip olivier, 2010

Trad 20m Lion's Head
16 Political Solution

This route lies about midway between Power Struggle and the large pines at the first hiking path chains. It is easily observed from the car park as it is the crack between the appealing orange face to its left and a black face to its right. This nondescript route has one redeeming feature - it gives a great close up view of the orange face of Ayoba. Ascend the open book formed by the orange and black faces into an incomplete crack. Move directly up to a tricky finish onto the ledge above. Belay from the large boulders

FA: K. Hayden, L. Batchelor & Hilton Davies, 2008

Trad 20m Lion's Head
16 Cold War-Variation

FA: D. Mecer & Scurvy, 2008

Trad 20m Lion's Head
14 Plonkers Paradise

FA: Tony Lourens & Jan Fischer, 2011

Trad 20m Lion's Head
18 Kalashnikov

This good route lies five metres to the right of Power Struggle and forms a straight line on the side of the prominent overhanging nose. With a tricky start through a small overhang ascend the face directly below the right side of the prominent overhanging prow. Halfway up step left onto the prow and ascend the shallow recess and steep top section to finish at the Power Struggle platform. Originally the route had 2 pitons which were removed in 2010, after consensus that the route could be adequately protected.

Great steep climb. Excellent rock.

FA: Hilton Davies & A. Ross, 2008

Trad 20m Lion's Head
17 Lovely Jubbly

Start on a block beneath a prominent roof to the right of the black rock to the right of Political Solution. Step off the block and up to the roof. Pull through on the right on good holds past two perfect rails. Move up the blunt seam, then continue up clean rock to the top.

FA: Tony Lourens & Riaan Vorster, 2011

Trad 20m Lion's Head
18 The Craving

Climb the black crack starting from the top of the bush to the top.

FA: J. Fisher & Tony Lourens, 2011

Trad 20m Lion's Head
13 Yellow Canary

Start as for the craving, but move left out onto the face. Move up, crossing Creekers and finish up the layback crack to the top.

FA: Tony Lourens & Willie Koen, 2012

Trad 20m Lion's Head
16 Creekers

From the block left of the start of The Craving, pull onto and straight up the clean, white face to the left of the crack on The Craving.

FA: Richard Halsey, 2012

Trad Lion's Head
16 Rodney

Climb the slightly runout (but easy) face to a rail. Layback up through the roof and keep more or less on the arête to the top. This route is easier than it looks.

FA: J. Fischer, R. Vorster & Tony Lourens, 2011

Trad 20m Lion's Head
17 Power Couple

Start up Kalashnikov but then head up and left to underneath a narrow roof. Pull through and then up the left side of short white face.

FA: R.Halsey & R. Straite, Aug 2019

Trad 20m Lion's Head
17 Rolling Moon

Start to the right of Kalashnikov. Pull up into a short right-facing corner and up to the brown rock. Follow two layback cracks to the top.

FA: Richard Halsey & R. Straite, Aug 2019

Trad 20m Lion's Head
16 Garden Variety

Start between Boris the Bullet Dodger and Cold War. Pull onto the wall by some vertical side pulls. At the small roof, step left then up between some large stacked blocks. Head up the light grey face on good holds to the top. This is just left of a darker, narrow, square recess.

FA: Richard Halsey & M. Bosman, Sep 2016

Trad 20m Lion's Head
16 Cold War

FA: Hilton Davies & A. Ross, 2008

Trad 20m Lion's Head
21 Power Play

Start just left of Power Struggle, and follow two, white stacked aretes on the left of the face. Head right to the first roof. Pull through on the left into a vague recess, just left of where 'Power Struggle' pulls through. Continue up to an undercling flake at the base of the white face above. Pull out right and boldly follow the white arête to the top. The boulder on top wobbles, so railing left or right a foot below the top is safer.

FA: Richard Halsey & M. Penso, Nov 2016

Trad 20m Lion's Head

Showing all 29 routes.

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