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Routes in White Face Sector

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Showing all 12 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Trad
10 White Face
1 8 20m
2 10 30m
3 9 25m
4 9 20m

FA: Unknown

Trad 95m, 4 Lion's Head
15 Rumpelstiltskin
1 15 20m
2 14 20m
3 13 15m
4 12 15m
  1. 15 20m:
    From the top of a rectangular block, climb straight up to the open book and all the way up till reach the roof. Climb 2m right until able to pull through and belay from a big ledge.
  2. 13 20m:
    . Walk around 8 meters left and then up to the right of a big chimney. Climb the face around 4 meters right of the chimney where there is a small cairn. Climb up and slightly left to a layback crack and then go diagonally right and left again to the top of a small block. Climb the face straight up and belay from a small ledge.
  3. 12 15m:
    Climb up and right until squeezed underneath a large block. Climb to the left and up to the top of the huge block with amazing views of the ocean and mountains.
  4. 11 15m:
    Climb easily straight up to a big ledge. Scrambling leads to the top.

FA: J.R. Atherstone & R.B. Elam, 1988

Trad 70m, 4 Lion's Head
22 Gone with the Wind
1 18 25m
2 22 45m

Starts about 10m right of the White Face pitch on the level of the Geo Cache Sector, below and just right of a corner with an ominous looking block hanging in the ceiling.

  1. 25m (18) Start up the crack in the short face to a small overlap. Pull through on the right and then rail left to the corner. Move carefully upwards to a rail heading out left (this is below the hanging block in the roof). Traverse left and use a pointed foot prong to pull over the bulge (DO NOT USE THE SUSPENDED BLOCK IN THE ROOF). Continue up to the wide ledge finishing on the last few moves of White Face. Walk across the ledge to the base of a vague arete about 5m left of Wailing Wall P2.

  2. 45m (22) Climb the arete and up to a short face. Negotiate this and then pull up on the left side of the roof. Continue up to easier ground. At a ledge step left onto a featured rock over a small overlap. Continue straight up towards a narrow corner capped by a thin roof. Exit ont he right side of the roof and up to the vegetated ledge.

There is an abseil point 5m right from a tree and touch point.

FA: Richard Halsey & G. Bird

Trad 70m, 2 Lion's Head
17 Duly Noted
1 17 15m
2 15 25m

3m right of Wailing Wall P2 and 2m left of the main fault up White Face is a break running straight to a roof.

  1. 15m, 17:Take the break before stepping left 1.5m further under the roof and ascending over a triangular crack in the roof. After 4m of easy ground stance on a comfortable ledge.

  2. 25m, 15: start on a right facing flake and proceed up, climbing an open book above a large cubby which is part of Wailing Wall. Continue straight up until being greeted at the top is a small tree.

FA: Warren Gans, 2012

Trad 40m, 2 Lion's Head
20 Salty Sea Lion
1 20 19m
2 17 23m
  1. ±19m (Grade ±20, Consensus requ.): Start ±5m right of the start of pitch 3 (As per D. Mercer book) of White Face. Climb the short brown face and pull up thru the roof to a cubby hole. Tend 2m right and continue up a layback, step left and climb diagonally right to a large platform. If the layback proves too difficult a variation to the left is about 3 grades easier.

  2. ±23m (Grade ±17, Consensus requ.): Start where the ledge peters out on the right. Climb the right leaning ramp and pass a few rails heading for the prominent V-Groove. Move through this and tend right through steep sections to the small corner. An abseil awaits at the ledge above the corner. Abseil or scramble to top-out.

FA: Cormac Tooze & M. Lamprecht, 23 Feb 2017

Trad 42m, 2 Lion's Head
15 Wailing Wall
1 13 25m
2 15 20m
3 13 25m

FA: Unknown

Trad 70m Lion's Head
15 Liontide
1 14 10m
2 15 18m
3 15 40m

To the left of the large recess on the corner overlooking the Lion's Rump is a blocky protruding face. It is this face that has a lichenous white patch on it from which 'White Face' drivers its name. The route starts up a crack to the left of the middle of the face.

  1. 14 10m:
    Climb the crack which has an undercut start, to a narrow ledge bout 6m up. Move 3-4m to belay where the ledge widens.
  2. 15 18m:
    Climb up just left of the corner on the right of the ledge tending left to a higher ledge. Walk left to a thin free-standing block. Step off this and mantle up the short wall above. Climb to the overhang and pass this on the right. Continue to the ledge above. The next pitch starts up the face to the left of the obvious corner crack on pitch 5 of 'Sea Point Face'
  3. 15 40m:
    Climb the overhanging face on good holds till able to move around the corner on the left. Continue up just left of the corner close to 'White Face'final pitch. Scramble to the top.

FA: M. Scott & P. de Tolly, 2004

Trad 68m, 3 Lion's Head
16 Table Bay
1 16 25m
2 15 20m
3 14 20m

FA: Unknown

Trad 65m, 3 Lion's Head
11 Stovepipe
1 11 20m
2 11 25m
3 9 12m

FA: Unknown

Trad 57m, 3 Lion's Head
14 Signal Crack

FA: Unknown

Trad Lion's Head
15 Gnashing Arête
1 14 27m
2 15 27m
3 11 25m

FA: D. Mecer & M. Scott, 2007

Trad 79m, 3 Lion's Head
12 Sea-Point Face
1 12 25m
2 12 12m
3 11 20m
4 9 10m
5 11 14m
6 11 25m
7 9 14m

FA: J. Gray & J. Wilson, 1969

Trad 120m, 7 Lion's Head

Showing all 12 routes.

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