Routes in Cape Town

Abseil/ Rap station.

1. [16] 35m

   ???

2. [22] 36m

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"A friendly tiger, with some good teeth."

Start: the route starts on a brown corner, just right of the tall recess which is first pitch of Tarantella.

1. Pull up the brown corner to a horizontal rail. Do a crouching swing right to a sloping foot-ramp and pull up to a position underneath some blocks. Move left, then right past the blocks to a recess. Climb this until able to hold the top of a vague pillar with a flat scoop on the right. Move onto the pillar. Step left from the top and mantelshelf up onto a long narrow ledge. (Tarentella comes in here, and the next 2m up to the ledge are shared).

2. Take an overhanging break in the white face ahead. Steep pull ups leads to the Halfway Ledge. Traverse left to the corner. (Corner comes up to this corner, and Plumbline takes the rib). Climb the corner to the a big block, then up to a ledge.

3. In front of the big sloping block, the pitches of Crest and Cameron's break through the overhangs. On the right the overhangs end and a yellow, undercut recess lies just left of a wet, grassy crack. Take the small recess (crux). Move left and up to a stance shared with Cameron's Frontal.

4. Step left and up into a crack cutting the overhangs. A big ledge is gained below the long easy ramp of Cameron's.

5. Take the thin finger-rails and diagonal crack through the overhang on the left. Shuffle left to the corner before taking the steep face above, bearing left to a ledge.

6. The tall crack at the back of the ledge is Frontal. On the right is an undercut crack in the corner. Pull around the overhang using a bollard, then climb the corner to a hand rail. Mantelshelf up. Scramble the broken face to a wormhole gully then on to the top.

Route with a country feel to it. Some friable rock though good overall (with some lichenous section). Right side of south wall. In the shade most of the day.

1. 13 - 25m

2. 14 - 30m

3. 14 - 50m

4. 16 - 30m

5. 12 - 25m

6. 13 - 30m

7. 11 - 35m

Descent: at the top, head East and find the Apostle's path. Take right, following this South, towards Grootkop. Before reaching Grootkop, at the fork take a right again, heading West, and follow a narrow but clear path that leads to Oudekraal Ravine. Take right and descend Oudekraal Ravine and back to the base of Corridor Buttress.

Varied climbing, with a short, fierce section on the crux pitch.

1. 10m (18) Climb the Bust Up crack to the small ledge on the left.

2. 15m (22) Start by an old peg and climb up ~3m to a thin rail. Traverse left to the next old peg and follow the crack system up and very slightly right to reach the stance shared with Daddy Long Legs (peg under a small overlap)

3. 15m (25/26) Follow the crack on the right side of the stance to the left end of a narrow roof. Pull up to some underclings and traverse ~3m right and then up to a thin rail (micro cams useful). A hard move up to the next rail and then a long pull to a pocket above the narrow overlap. Head diagonally left to the wide rail below the main roof at the height of the Bust Up flake. Abseil point (hex and cam) in situ.

The pegs on pitch 2 were from a potential alternate start to Bust Up attempted by Greg Mosely and Andy Killick in 1971!

1. [22] ??m

   ???

2. [26] ??m

   ???

Specialist gear required.

Start 3m right of Rumpelstiltskin. Good climbing, but rather lichenous. Follow the shallow corner to the roof. Step left and pull through a series of rails tending slightly left until the angle eases. Finish on the broad ledge.

Start 5m left of Juggernaut P2. Straight up to small ledge. Move right into short, bottomless corner (tricky) and then straight up face and steep prow to ledge. Small cam useful for the crux.

"A Cragman route. In its day, without protection it must have been desperate"

Start: about 10m right of the drip in the Cave. Start beneath some brown overhangs which are 5m right and up the face.

1. Climb diagonally left up a face to an obvious stance below an overhanging crack with a tree on the right.

2. Climb the crack and continue up the recess to a broad ledge.

3. Walk 15m left to a recessed corner which is ascended to the Halfway Ledge

4. Walk left 7m to the other side of the overhang. Step from the block and climb 3m up a corner to a handrail under the roof. Traverse right 3m until its possible to move up to a small ledge. Traverse right 9m and move up to an obvious stance.

5. Climb down 2m to a broad ledge and traverse right.

6. Climb the face to a dassie ledge. Walk left 25m to a square corner.

7. Climb the crack in the corner the out left to a stepped face which is ascended to the top of the buttress.

Start: the route starts on the left end of the ledge and is marked by a beacon. The route follows a line of obvious overhanging open-books on the prow separating the two sectors.

1. Climb the wall to a ledge and move left to a stance below the overhanging open book.

2. Climb the open book to the roof, then rail left to the prow on the lip

3. Climb the series of open books, tending right to reach the left side of a ledge.

4. Climb the crack and walls to the top.

Climb the chocolate face then move right on to big jugs to gain the ledge. Pull through the roof and rail slightly left to establish yourself on the headwall. From here there are two exits. Which one will you choose?

Acronym: Tired And Totally Wanked Out Climbers

1. [23] 20m

2. [23] 20m

3. [21] 25m

4. [25] 25m

Starts up the left side of the sharp fin (directly under the steep prow above) to a narrow ledge. Pull through the roof and move slightly right to a steep layback and then continue directly up the steep arete to the top. At the crux keep an eye out for a key two-finger pocket that is not immediately obvious. Consensus grading needed - probably 24 with the crux beta.

1. [12] 14m

2. [12] 8m

3. [12] 11m

4. [14] 18m

5. [11]

Start about 10m left of the CC. Climb the recess, and swing left into some wild roofs. Continue up to the triangle-cut overhang, and turn it on the right.

"A frightening series of desperate pitches, technical and ridiculously strenuous." (MCSA guide 1978).

Start: From the left hand end of a flat slab of rock just right of the drip at Postern Cave.

1. Move up a vague recess for 3m. Traverse r3m right along the ledge and climb a corner to stance on the right side of a large detached flake.

2. Climb the square recess capped by a small overhang. Turn the overhang and continue up to a large ledge.

3. Almost immediately behind and 6m right of the easy recess used by Cameron's Frontal is a very steep brown face. Climb a small chimney, followed by an awkward move onto a ledge on the right, from where some pull ups followed by a rounded mantleshelf lands you on the Halfway Ledge. Walk 20m left to a beacon about 8m right of the Bollard pitch of Plumbline. This should be at the base of a slightly overhanging recess.

4. Climb the overhanging recess to a good rail. Strenuous moves to beneath a brown overhang, short move right past a jammed block then up to the ledge above. This ledge is the Plumbline traverse ledge under the overhang.

5. Above and slightly left is a handrail running under the overhang. This is formed by a slab about 1m thick under the overhang and clearly visible from below (on the opening ascent a large wooden wedge was placed about halfway along the traverse to protect the leader). Climb up to the handrail, using two pitons for aid. Hand traverse around the corner, then up to a cubbyhole. 2m higher is a stance.

6. Climb the chimney above and exit onto an obvious ledge with a large block on it.

7. Climb the face above, moving diagonally left and back right again. The pitch reaches the summit 4m left of Plumbline.

Open project. Thin face climbing off the deck to join into Stop Whining.

Hard line in a great position. From the Uber Huber platform, dassie crawl left to a ledge where the route starts.

1. 28m (22) Climb Bust Up pitch 3. At the first big ledge (where Bust Up pitch 4 heads up and right) continue straight up a small left-facing corner. Continue straight up to a stance with an old peg under a projecting block.

2. 20m (27) A key tufa-like hold on the original pitch has broken, which means you need to climb closer to the big corner on the left. This prompted a better, right-hand version that keeps you away from the big corner but may be harder for shorter folks. Move out diagonally left from the stance and then straight up for a few metres to a handrail below an overlap. For the RHV, move right to where the overlap narrows and make a long, hard move to a large pocket, and continue up to the narrow roof. (Alternatively, climb the face about 1m right of the big corner, resisting the temptation to step on the left wall, to the narrow roof and rail ~1.5 right). Head straight up and right of a large right-facing flake feature using strenuous underclings, and then tend right to finish under the large roof. Abseil from fixed gear (two large hexes). Advisable to place at least one piece on the way down, as it is steep. While 50m ropes should work, this has not been tested so recommended to use 60m ropes.

1. [21] ??m

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2. [18] ??m

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3. [21] ??m

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4. [17] ??m

   ???

Half way between Rumplestiltskin and the Aloe cave is a large open book. Climb the layback (corner) for a few meters (strenuous/ awkward), then follow the break aiming for a small corner further up , another layback tops you out at at a very scenic medium size & vegetated belay ledge, stance here then 'B' scramble to the top, alternatively don't stance and climb 10M further to the top, less scenic, less coms. but safer.

Start to the right of Juggernaut up a crack system that moves up and slightly right across the steep face to join the Y-shaped recess on Cat’s Pyjamas. Head straight up the face above, then a short arête and then a final bungle with an intermittent crack on the right hand side. Scramble up to the big ledge. Abseil point to the left.

The hardest thing around.

Start: approximately 4m right of the Wafer Flake standing upright on the ledge.

1. Climb the face to a long ledge, move left to the blocks on the corner.

2. Climb the murky recessed corner, past a loose block. Move right at the first rail, then traverse out left on some rails (below the Halfway Ledge), until it is possible to move onto it. Walk right to the Staletto recess which has an old peg.

3. From the block perched out over space, traverse left on some rails and into a peapod crack, which is climbed easily to the ledge.

4. A short recess on Postern Nose route is used to gain the next big ledge.

5. Slightly right is a jam crack through a roof. Climb the roof, "hanging like a bat". The move around the lip into the recess above is thin. After that, things get harder until the ledge.

Granite classic! Glue-in lower-off's at the finish.

This good route lies five metres to the right of Power Struggle and forms a straight line on the side of the prominent overhanging nose. With a tricky start through a small overhang ascend the face directly below the right side of the prominent overhanging prow. Halfway up step left onto the prow and ascend the shallow recess and steep top section to finish at the Power Struggle platform. Originally the route had 2 pitons which were removed in 2010, after consensus that the route could be adequately protected.

Great steep climb. Excellent rock.

1. [17] 8m

2. [25] 22m

3. [25] 28m

On the north-west corner of Spring Buttress between the subsidiary wall on the left and the main amphitheatre on the right is a small weathered wall. The climb ascends a crack to the right of centre on the buttress and then climbs diagonally up right past the overhangs. Start in a shallow overhung scoop.

Tricky start guards easy climbing and sublime positions on the headwall. FFA up for grabs -- get on it, people!

1. [25] 20m

2. [21] 25m

3. [22] 30m

Start up Greyscaling. At the ledge take the crack to the right of Greyscaling, then follow a curved crack. When this peters out climb straight up to the top.

Climbs the face to the right of 'The Reckoning'. Start easily up to a layback flake system and then take a central line up the face with a short, wide vertical crack just before the top.

Acronym: Tired And Totally Wanked Out Climbers

1. [23] 20m

2. [23] 20m

3. [21] 25m

4. [26] 20m

Left of the Ironborn corner, Kingklip Buffet follows the short arête to the steep crack system in the centre of the overhanging face.

From the large boulder, pull up into the crack in the centre of the face and move right to the short, undercut arête. Continue up to the first roof and follow the vertical cracks through overlaps to a bottomless corner. Hard moves out right lead to the backrest of the ‘Throne’. Continue straight up to a wide horizontal rail and then up to a fin on the right. Pull back left to exit onto a ledge left of the bushes, continue up to next ledge where there is a rap point.

Start just left of Neighbourhood Threat.

Pitch 1: 50m, 17 Basically the pitch goes directly up the face to what looks like a hairline crack (from the ground) several meters left of Neighbourhood Threat. Just right of this hairline crack is a flake type feature that may be where Tornado goes. After the thin section, head up and slightly left on easy ground to reach a narrow ledge. Above is a bulging brown roof, with a left tending diagonal gash on the left (which is above a block). Stance on the ledge in a position a bit down and right of the block.

Pitch 2. 30m, 19 Head up to the block and pull though into the face above using the diagonal gash. Continue up and left to narrow ledge. Pull up into the bottomless corner above (with a vegetated ledge to the right, where Life During Wartime goes). Traverse left to pull around the left side of the roof). At the next roof (with Darkness on the Edge of Town taking the left break), traverse right ~3m and then up a grey ramp to the top.

After scrambling up to the staircase ledge (grade 10 scramble), walk left all the way to the end of the ledge to a grey face. Climb up to a standing up exposed, but easy, traverse to the left and around the corner to a half tree (it used to be a big tree but someone cut it and left only the tree trunk). Start climbing from there.

1. [16] 25m Climb straight up the flaky wall to a ledge. Go up to the start of a flaky crack system (the start is awkward) and follow this system, which goes slightly diagonally left, to the end of it. Step right to the face and up till able to reach a wide rail (there are two small rails just above it). Build a hanging belay here.

2. [16] 25m Climb the stunning traverse until forced to move up. Climb straight up to a flaky steep crack system to a small ledge with a big hole on it. Belay from this ledge.

3. [16] 20m Start at the far left of the small ledge climbing straight up on good holds the steep wall to a bulging face. Move slightly right and up into a wide but short crack to a huge ledge. Build your anchor here. Scrambling leads to the top.

A Straight line. Technical and strenuous.

Start: about 8m right of Cameron's Frontal and 3m left of Fraser's Frontal Flake.

1. Climb the short face leading to a stance with a few trees (which is shared with Fraser's Frontal). Move up 3m, then traverse 4m right to a semi-layback crack. Climb the crack 8m to a stance.

2. From the right, climb the overhanging recess to a good stance, then traverse 18m left past a yellowwood and continue along a narrow dassie-crawl to stance on the left of a number of loose-looking blocks.

3. An interesting take off enables one to overcome the undercut, bulging recess. Continue up 1m then left on a semi-detached block. From the left end of this block ascend 8m, until forced to traverse 3m right to a small flake with an overhang above. Turn the roof by a pull using a high grip, then mantleshelf onto a stance just below the Halfway Ledge. Move right along the ledge to a recess.

4. Semi-layback 5m up the recess to a handrail running towards the nose on the right. Ignoring the higher rail, traverse 1m right until the lower handrail fades out. Search for a concealed cup grip in the face a little distance down right and swing down on this grip until minute footholds are found. Reach up tot the handrail (which appears to form a rounded grip) and pull up and stretch to a two finger grip. Gain a good handrail above, then traverse to the tip of the nose and ascend a short recess to a good stance.

5. Traverse 5m right and climb a recess for 4m. Continue to a good stance.

6. Climb 11m over a broken face, bearing slightly left of the previous pitch, to a small stance. climb a chimney on the right to the top.

Starts just left of the concrete foundation (old lookout) on the left side of a detached flake.

1. [9] 25m. Climb the left side of the flake then follow cracks and face to the vegetated band above. Scramble up to and slightly left to a crack in a dihedral.

2. [12] 12m. Climb the open book to a ledge to the right with a white block on it.

3. [12] 30m. From the left end of the ledge, climb the crack to a ledge then up a large chimney and through a wormhole to the top.

Descent: Either hike to the top or go about 5m skiers-right and down to a rappel anchor (2x60m to bottom).

Superb climbing with an airy finish

Climb either the first pitch of Daddy Long Legs or Redback to reach the peg stance.

From the left side of the peg stance, climb straight up for about 8 meters to gain a rail under a small overlap. Climb past a rather useful pocket and pull through the next overlap (just left of Redback anchor) to another rail. Place good gear in this rail below the vertical seam on the headwall. Gain this seam boldly (but safely) from the left and follow it to the anchor for Daddy Long Legs. A 0.4 camalot is useful for the last section.

1. [14] 27m

2. [17] 20m

3. [12] 46m

4. Scramble to the top.

1. [18] ??m

   ???

2. [20] ??m

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Climb the blunt arete to the right of Lookout. At the small ledge, pull up onto the fin (sounds hollow, but seems solid) and move strenuosly up and slightly right. Finish up the ramp to the broad ledge.

Climb the thinner crack on the left. You can use standard sport rope. This nook is in shade when the rest of the crag is in the sun. Scramble up a few meters then walk left to access Clifton tea cave level.

Start up the break left of Mane Course and pull right onto the shelf. Climb the open book to the roof. Continue up the steep, flaring crack above to the next roof. Reach straight over the roof to find good holds (and small cams for gear). From here, a funky but difficult crux sequence leads right and then up onto the face above. [There is a key, large flake under the roof, which seems solid, but treat it with respect]. Continue straight up to the ledge with a small tree. On the left side of the ledge climb straight up the right hand side of two short faces to the big ledge. Abseil point to the left. Consensus grading needed.

A classic line.

Start: Behind the Middle Block.

1. Move up left and do an awkward mantleshelf to gain a narrow ledge. Traverse right 8m along the ledge to an obvious recess and climb this to another ledge about 14m above. Immediately behind is a sloping ramp which is climbed to a stance with a large flake on it.

2. Traverse 2m right and climb to a small ledge. Traverse right 5m, then climb a sloping ramp to a small pinnacle. Traverse left until it is possible to move up to the Halfway Ledge. Walk left about 30m to a large block.

3. Using a sling to reach a bollard protruding from the face, pull up and continue to the ledge beneath the large overhang.

4. Traverse right over some loose blocks. Where the ledge ends, move up 3m to a small stance with a loose block on it.

5. Move left onto an exposed corner, then traverse 13m left into a chimney. Climb the chimney, then continue up over a very large detached block on the right and climb the recess immediately above, exiting left onto a ledge. Move along the ledge and climb up to a broad ledge and the end of the route.

As for Huguenot wall.

1. Climb the forked crack to an incut ledge. Walk about 10 meters to a face and climb the face to a bolted anchor.

2. Climb the face to a crack that splits the wall in two just above you. Climb the crack an up to another bolted anchor. Two 30 meters abseil take you back to the ground.

Originally an aid route (Anvil Chorus).

1. [30] 23m

2. [17] 30m

3. [22] 12m

4. [24] 14m

5. [26] 12m

6. [23] 30m

One of the best routes on the amphitheatre with a fine last pitch.

Start: about 10m right of Gates, below an undercut sloping corner/ramp.

1. Stand on the blocks and pull into the corner. Move up left past some small roofs, then continue up leftwards to stance in a cubbyhole on the right.

2. Traverse right to a good ledge below an obvious slanting corner.

3. Climb the corner and rail to a stance.

4. Climb the faint corner to the roof. Rail right, move up to the next roof, then rail back left to clear the roof. Climb the short wall, past the wide horizontal crack to reach a ledge a little higher. One could stance 4m left on a grassy ledge which allows the belayer to watch the leader on the last pitch.

5. Climb up through two horizontal breaks to beneath an overhang, where one steps left to beneath a clean but featured face. Climb the face diagonally right to reach the top.

Start:

The route is in The Dream sector on Fountain Ledge, Table Mountain. Space Race is very direct and goes through one of the biggest flat roofs on the mountain. The first pitch starts between Farewell to Arms and Last Tango.

1. [23 A3] 30m On The Dream Ledge between 'Farewell to Arms' and Last Tango is a steep white wall capped by a huge roof. Start up the wall left of centre, a few metres from the thin crack of Farewell to Arms. Head directly up to the huge rail then traverse right to get to the thin seam that intermittently heads out to the lip of the roof. Using tiny cams, RPs and knife blades climb the 10m roof and turn the lip. Freestyle a couple of metres to a good stance under overhangs. A nice free variation involves railing rightwards under the huge roof and then coming back left above the roof to the stance.

2. [22] 30m Head up on the left and turn the overhangs. Head straight up the centre of the clean white wall between Last Tango on the left and The Cruise which heads up the leaning break on the right. Arrive at a big ledge and do a tricky mantelshelf.

3. [21 R] 12m After a bit of easy ground, there is a blank slab above. A ripple runs up the slab leaning to the left. Climb this ripple without protection. At the rail, head left and up the overhanging pillar, the slab is quite a serious lead.

4. [21] 20m Above is a wide roof with one obvious break some metres to the left. Don’t go there. Go slightly right and in the roof find a small pocket that allows you to lean out to the lip. Crank up onto the face and go to the arête on the right. Head straight up.

Climbs the seam on the wall between “Hung my Head” and “No Charge”. Start: Climb the awkward start of “No Charge”. At the cubby-hole, move left and up through a narrow roof, pick up the thin seam on steepish wall to the top.

A lonely, exposed pitch consisting of a horizontal roof and steep crack that is visible from Tafelberg road, near the top pitch of Africa Amphitheatre. It could now be done as an alternative, hard last pitch to 'Africa Safari'.

Access: To be done as a single pitch: From the upper cable station, walk towards Platteklip, passing two viewing areas with railings. The next lookout has a stone wall. From here, in the direction of Devil's Peak, one can see a huge, egg-shaped boulder on the edge. About 20m left, as viewed from here, is the top of the pitch. Abseil from good sling points above the left wall of the corner to a platform. Scramble down over a boulder to another ledge below the route.

Route: 30m (24?) Gain the roof and crank through the obvious flake and crack (about 4m long) to the lip, and then follow the steep crack system, taking the right split at the top of the steep section. The top third is still a bit lichenous, but at this stage, the business is over. Consensus grading needed

1. [20] 30m

2. [19] 18m

Start at short grey face. Pull up to a rail and then continue up the centre of the blunt prow. Continue up a left facing corner and at the top step right and then straight up the face to the top.

Single pitch from the ledge running across Sector D. Could be an alternate finch to Juice Kaboose.

Pitch 1: 35m, 19. Start directly a thin crack running though the lowest roof, just left of a long horizontal flake (the old route Tornado goes under the flake and out right). Climb to the roof and squirm along the top of the flake until able to pull up and left. Easily up to a steep section in dark brown rock with big holds. After this, easy ground on grey slab to the top.

Start: directly in front of a triangular block, a meter or so right of Fraser's

1. Climb the wall, traverse right, move up to a ledge, the continue to the right until it is possible to follow a diagonal line up and back to the left of the recess.

2. To the right of Fraser's pull up through an overhang onto a flat platform and continue up the recess above, then climb the short white wall directly ahead to a ledge.

3. Fraser's is now unavoidably crosses where it makes the long traverse from left to right over to a point next to the Postern "D" route. (Postern Face also crosses Fraser's Frontal here). Climb to a piton in the crack a meter or so from the left end of the ledge. After an awkward pull-up around a slight bulge, move up to a tiny niche, then pull through the overhanging wall on horizontal handrails to reach the Halfway Ledge next so some bushes and a large block.

4. Climb the large recess at the start of the Halfway ledge (where one has to descend from the blocks), up to an off-balance jam move next to a piton. A Delicate lay-back move leads up to the handrail under the overhang. Traverse left and up.

5. Traverse left to the base of the left or two recesses.

6. Postern Nose is crossed here as it used the easier recess on the right. Climb the recess using fingertip lay-back crack, which curves over to the right and is very strenuous. Pull up to a sloping ledge using two deep finger holds. Step up to the ledge and walk off to the right.

The route starts from the right hand side of the long cave feature on the buttress. You have to scramble up to reach the start of the first pitch.

1. [19] 15m

   The start is undercut. Reach up for a good blocky hold, then throw to another hold up and right. Step left and up to an undercling. Move to the rail above and go hard right until able to pull onto a ledge. Traverse right into a corner. Step up to gain a rail, move right onto the face (crux of Fader's Frontal). Climb the face until able to step left into a niche. Stance.

2. [20] 25m

   Rail hard left, at one point stepping down to a lower rail. After stepping down, continue railing left until able to pull up to a long block wedged on the face. Continue moving left and pull up onto a small ledge. Stance.

3. [19] 30m

   Move up and left until you reach a corner crack. Climb the crack for a few meters before stepping off to the left. Continue moving left and up, aiming for the black roof split by a crack. Pull up into the crack (crux). Once above the roof, follow the wide rail left and past some blocks until you reach a good ledge with a layback crack in the corner. Stance.

4. [19] 30m

   Climb the layback crack to the roof. Rail right until able to pull up to another wider rail. Follow this back left and pull up into a corner. Climb the corner, moving out right under the roof and climb the face to an abseil point (tat). Either belay here or scramble up to a higher ledge and stance.

Fun for the whole family Start: Halfway along the dassie crawl ledge about 3 meters right of Bust Up. Belay by a large boulder.

1. 28m (24) Climb the left-leaning crack to a powerful move about 7 meters up. From this climb straight up to a wide break. Pull through the overhang and continue straight up and then move right 2 metres to stance on a small triangular ledge with good gear (finger size cams) in an intermittent vertical crack at about head height.

2. 25m (28R) Climb straight up for about 5 meters (Shared with Bust Up). Move right onto the arête for a couple of moves then follow the break diagonally left to the rail 2 meters below the big roof. Move ~1.5m left, then up and right to the next rail using a square pocket. Pull through the roof and move back right for ~1.5m. Place a crucial wire (No. 7 BD stopper) on the lip and run it out on pumpy, technical moves to the anchor in the next rail (the fall from the last hard move is scary but safe).

Variations: A direct version that is more suited to taller folk still needs to be climbed (Platinum Orb, 29ish). This avoids the left detour by using 2 large pockets and pulling directly through the large part of the roof.

An even more indirect version moves left to the Redback anchor (Silver Orb, 26ish)

1. [18] ??m

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2. [14] ??m

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Starts about 10m right of the White Face pitch on the level of the Geo Cache Sector, below and just right of a corner with an ominous looking block hanging in the ceiling.

1. 25m (18) Start up the crack in the short face to a small overlap. Pull through on the right and then rail left to the corner. Move carefully upwards to a rail heading out left (this is below the hanging block in the roof). Traverse left and use a pointed foot prong to pull over the bulge (DO NOT USE THE SUSPENDED BLOCK IN THE ROOF). Continue up to the wide ledge finishing on the last few moves of White Face. Walk across the ledge to the base of a vague arete about 5m left of Wailing Wall P2.

2. 45m (22) Climb the arete and up to a short face. Negotiate this and then pull up on the left side of the roof. Continue up to easier ground. At a ledge step left onto a featured rock over a small overlap. Continue straight up towards a narrow corner capped by a thin roof. Exit ont he right side of the roof and up to the vegetated ledge.

There is an abseil point 5m right from a tree and touch point.