Routes in Cape Town for selected grade

Start as for 'Roulette Arête'.

Start as for 'The Squid and the Whale-Original'

Left of 'Roulette'

One of the harder routes on the Ledge. Sustained and a touch exciting.

Start: Start on the staircase ledge about 5m to the right of the arête between 'Jeopardy' and 'Jacob's Ladder'

1. [31] 40m Scramble up the large layback seam for about 10 meters to a ledge. Climb up the centre of the overhanging face through a series of small roofs to the 'Roulette' rail. Plenty of smallish cams are useful to protect this bottom section. Resisting the temptation to sit on the 'Roulette' ledge, rail right 2m and gain the next rail using the vertical crack. From this position, pull straight through the next little roof via difficult moves to establish in some underclings. Climb past a peg and move diagonally left past the crux of 'Jeopardy' to 2 more pegs and the 'Captain Hook' rail (the end of 'Jeopardy'). Lace the rail with cams and climb the blunt arête. Pull straight through the next roof and exit out left onto jugs on the headwall.

2. Figure out a cunning way to get down and to retrieve your gear or join the final pitch of Roulette.

1. [16] 35m

   ???

2. [32] 15m

   ???

Roof to the right of Cukoo's nest.

One of the harder routes on the Ledge. Sustained and a touch exciting.

Start: Start on the staircase ledge about 5m to the right of the arête between 'Jeopardy' and 'Jacob's Ladder'

1. [31] 40m Scramble up the large layback seam for about 10 meters to a ledge. Climb up the centre of the overhanging face through a series of small roofs to the 'Roulette' rail. Plenty of smallish cams are useful to protect this bottom section. Resisting the temptation to sit on the 'Roulette' ledge, rail right for 1m, pull through the roof and climb directly up the face just right of the main arete to join the original line at the 'Captain Hook' rail.

2. Figure out a cunning way to get down and to retrieve your gear or join the final pitch of Roulette.

Rail right for 1m, pull through the roof and climb directly up the face just right of the main arete to join the original line at the hook rail.

Enhance your life by climbing this route on trad gear:

Joe

Or just do it the normal way, and clip the bolts. Climb up to the big roof, find your way through this and into the crux of Germanator.

Twat Vier, Broken, and Stolen Secrets all share the same start. At the big roof, where Stolen Secrets veers right, continue straight, pull through the lip and up to the chains.

Open

Sit-start on jug (x), left hand to mono (x), right hand to small gaston (x), left hand to fat sloper (x), right hand to fat sloper (x), left hand to black jug (x), right hand to jug (x).

The rail close to the starting hold is off for feet!

Start like deep reflection but go up face the storm

Start as for High Maintenance and join Eyeball

The last bit of wind swell. Start on the crimp shield and climb up and right.

📹 Video

Climb midst of chaos but top out slightly right after dropping down

Low start off underclings to "my hip don't hop"

• Sit-start with left hand on little pocket on the far right of the boulder (x) and right hand on edge above it (x),

• Left hand to Porthole top left (x), right hand to Porthole,

• Left hand to positive edge left of the crack (x), right hand match,

• Left hand to small mono below(x), right hand to low layaway at the bottom of the crack (x),

• Left hand to big pocket left of lower crack (x),

• Right hand to Porthole (x), left hand to Porthole (x),

• Right hand to jug on arête (?),

• Left hand to little pocket back at start (x), right hand to edge at start (x),

• Left hand to undercling pocket out left (x),

• Right hand to Porthole (x),

• Right hand to triangular sloper above and to the left of the crack (x),

• Left hand to fat sloper further left (x), right hand to top (x).

Rail is on for feet.

Start with underclings on the right, traverse left all the way around the corner. Strong fingers and arms will help.

SS as for Dark Lord Sharon, climb straight up the face via dyno, TO

Is this the same route at the Project for this boulder?

Dom Riordan

Huge dyno from the rail to the white jug on the lip.

Climb the wall.

Climb Four Singers, instead of topping out up the blunt arête, move R along sloper rail and top out just L of the R corner

Big roof on path near Turtle area - Michael Janata

Rad little roof climb with a powerful dynamic throw - Rowan Toselli

Marijus Šmigelskis: > The big wall project!

Start at the exit of Through the Core, climb through the cave and TO as for the Beast

Beta Video

Sit start in centre of face with both hands on crimp's. climb directly up to TO, left of the roof via a jug. This could be the same problem as Borotvahad?

SS on good holds on lip of prow, climb straight up, TO. R arête off

Send footage at 02:14

Start on the rail between Bring Out the Gimp and the Accountant's Project, and climb directly up and over the blunt prow. Happy slapping!

Sit-start with LH on a good pocket, RH to a layaway pocket above and climb up.

Sit start below right arete with left-hand on low layaway and right hand on arete. Reach up right for sloper around arete then traverse thin seam left on crimp's to finish on jugs at end of the seam.

Sit start on the low shelf, move up into the undercling above and then CD to TO.

Awesome climb, instead of using slopey jug on Dionysus use crimpy undercling - Sheldon

sit to evan's crack, but climb the compression prow

I think I'm the first person to do this? Starts at the back of the cave and climbs into the jug where the outro traverse of Adventure time starts but tops out directly up. Start on a good mini rail, right hand to crimp right heel to start hold, left hand out to edge and then big throw left hand to good slot before arriving on the start hold of Me Time - Chev

Climb the seam up the very high wall.

Video

Cool boulder one level up from Bertie's Balcony - when you get to the turn-off to Berties, keep following the path up the hill until you see a pretty obvious boulder on your right.

Jump-start to two black holds and climb the adrenaline inducing arête. did the first repeat a year later and thinking it was a first ascent named it Zero Gravity.

Ascent by Matthew Bush

Stand Start high left hand, low right hand and climb up the blunt arete.

Landry Lushima

Fun new climb that needs a lot of balance. Three holds, one krunk ring-finger mono match and a whole lot of smearing. Its about 250m up and lightly to the left from Malboro Man - Rowan Toselli

Sit-start with left hand on a good pocket and move up left to the big bad sloper.

A variety of psychedelic mushroom. Climb The Journey until the crimp rail, then top out direct using the seam on the left.

Video

Sit-start on an incut rail and move up on nothing holds.

Start as for Da Capo, but head left into the Smiley crimp and climb directly up from there.

Landry Lushima

Sit-start on the rail on the left and traverse right via small sidepulls and a pocket to the lip.

Alan Hills

Bum start and do two or three hard moves on crimps to reach a good left side pull then topout.

Start on the jug rail deep in the cave and escape up the black streak. Helps to have long arms.

Sit start using diagonal break for hands. Move straight up to another diagonal edge and TO.

Tricky first move. Something to try if you're too short for Malboro Man - Robbie Fraser

Start as for B3, then drop into the low underclings, move L, then climb B1. All holds on Punji are off route (except the starting undercling obviously).

Jarryd New

"Not sure if this is meant to be an eliminate but felt more like 7A or it’s just a reach thing." - Jarryd New

Bum start in underclings, move up to a good edge on the right and top-out.

Beta Video

Landry Lushima

Bold and exposed top out

First 7b in Topside

Eliminate problem.

This is a contrived. but super cool, move. Because the original problem was to do this specific move, all the variations have been included. Start with both hands on the round sloper about 1m right of the arete, and your left foot on AA1's starting jug. Dyno to the rail/pocket above with your RH.

After doing Niks is Nodig I linked from the start of Buoyancy into the topout of Niks to make Sitrus is Nodig 7C ... give it a go and let me know what you think. Should be at least 7C seeing as it is definitely harder than Enhanced Coziness. - Chev

Sit-start just right of Lonestar Arête, move RH to Beach Babes' vertical slot and top-out direct.

Sitstart on the split crescent shaped boulder near the graffiti and do a tricky stand to the horizontal ledge. Traverse right all the way around the boulder, staying low and never using the top holds. Stay low on the slopey overhung finale using devious heel-hookery until the crux (last moves to pass the corner and exit on dark grey rock).

Start with both hands on large flat hold. traverse left along thin seam on crimp to reach jug in overlap then top out.

Put your right foot on the jug and your left foot on an edge near the arete, then go up with your left hand. Obviously don't put your foot around the arete.

right of Full Throttle

Sit-start on an edge on black rock.

Start as for Mr Smiley, but finish as for The Don.

Set up as for Jeremy’s Variation, go with RH.

The wall left on the heart feels no bass block

Beta Video

Landry Lushima

Cool line starting on the same jug as Warfare then followign the seam left and climbing the obvious corner/bulge using some cool compression moves. King line - Chev

Video

Climb the thin crack

Stand-start on a good pocket for the right hand, go up and left to a sidepull and climb straight up and out using the huge jug. Used to be a project in Guy Holwill's guide.

Sit start at the back of the roof (feet on the rucksack-sized block) climb along the discontinuous flake/seam to the lip, then to top out. Could be harder for tall climbers! Poor bastards.

📽️ Ascent by Rachelle de Charmoy at 5:01

Very cool new morpho line on a suspended boulder. Some fun toe hook trickery. Not sure on the grade, needs another ascent.

Sit start in the cave, climb the roof to the left to top out