Routes as sport in Alto Mijares

A clipstick might ease the start

The lower part up to the bulge is a nice 7a on mostly good holds with two tricky sequences. Shake well and long moves bring you to the lip. Where a long lock-off (at least for me) will try to spit you off. Clipping the last bolt is not easy and the last moves to the chain are pumpy.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

From the start of Luciernaga straight up through the steepest part of the wall. Cool boulder sequence with the best mono ever and a tiny little crimp. The top is a bit of endurance but should be no real problem, if you can rest well after the crux.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

starting to the right of Luziernaga and crossing it where the crack goes right. 8 bolts and a chain on top. Tough sequence with a great hidden hold in the upper part. My belayer was scared watching me doing the crux. So when coming down from the first ascent I placed one more bolt there. Enjoy.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Same start as 'Neilo' left trending afterwards.

Clipstick for the start recommended but the crux is the finish.

Está a la izquierda de la Ley de Brandolini. Había una hiedra que se ha secado y por eso hemos podido abrirla. Entra por fisura-diedro, pasa por una repisa y termina en una placa vertical.

Entra por fisura, sigue por placa inclinada y acaba por ligero desplome con buen canto.

Empieza por una chimenea, continúa en travesía a la izquierda por una repisa y termina por placa inclinada.

Por placa se sube a repisa, sigue por chimenea y se termina por la placa de la izquierda.

Por un zócalo fácil llegamos a una placa, levemente desplomada, que si se escala estrictamente por la fisura podría ser 6a+. Subimos a una pequeña repisa y por placa vertical llegamos al descuelgue.

Perfect handjams at the start a easy dehidral afterwards and a nice head wall.

Nice layback climbing

Dihedral to short splinter followed by a airy but juggy finish.

Same anchors as 'Chincheta'