Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Alicante Sierra de Toix Candelabros del Sol | ||||||||
7b | ★★ Ritmo Heavy | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Mar 2017 | ||||
Unrelenting slopers to an unusual rest. Gets quite traddy in the upper parts.
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7b+ | ★ Megalodon - with Olivier and Roberto Lopez | 20m | ★ Good | Fri 24th Mar 2017 | ||||
A very hard onsight. Had a sit on every bolt and multiple attempts at each crux.
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7b+ | ★ Megalodon - with Olivier and Roberto Lopez | 20m | ★ Good | Fri 24th Mar 2017 | ||||
Powerful climbing on very rounded holds.
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7c | ★★★ 50 Shades of 8a (Fifty Shades of 8a) - with Roberto y Olivier | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 27th Jan 2017 | ||||
Working out the moves. Big span for crux with a balancy move afterwards.
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7c | ★★★ 50 Shades of 8a (Fifty Shades of 8a) | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Feb 2017 | ||||
Bolt to bolt warm up.
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7c | ★★★ 50 Shades of 8a (Fifty Shades of 8a) - with Got to the main crux unable to reach the undercling crimp. | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Feb 2017 | ||||
Bolt to bolt warm up.
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7c | ★★★ 50 Shades of 8a (Fifty Shades of 8a) | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Feb 2017 | ||||
Crux is still very hard to do even after loads of rest on jugs.
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7c | ★★★ 50 Shades of 8a (Fifty Shades of 8a) | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 14th Feb 2017 | ||||
6th- Unable to do crus after climbing leading to it. New beta of Rh to undercling by waist before reaching with LH to undercling crimp.
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7c | ★★★ 50 Shades of 8a (Fifty Shades of 8a) - with 6th- | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 14th Feb 2017 | ||||
7th- Rushed waist undercling and missed it. New beta using knob for RF before coming into waist undercling then reaching left. MAtch feet and go long with RH
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7c | ★★★ 50 Shades of 8a (Fifty Shades of 8a) | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 14th Feb 2017 | ||||
5th- Got LH undecling but couldn´t move. New beta with LF using lower bigger foot hold.
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7c | ★★★ 50 Shades of 8a (Fifty Shades of 8a) | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 22nd Feb 2017 | ||||
It finally fell into place. Great climbing at an amazing location.
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7a+ | ★ MI-MI-TO-NO variant | 25m | ★ Good | Fri 24th Feb 2017 | ||||
Very wet conditions made it hardeer than it needed to be. A Nowra like route. A hard boulder thrown into some ok climbing.
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7a+ | ★ MI-MI-TO-NO variant | 25m | ★ Good | Tue 7th Mar 2017 | ||||
Much easier in drier conditions.
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7b+ | ★ Apadrina un Mito - with Roberto Lopez | 25m | ★ Good | Wed 15th Mar 2017 | ||||
Nice moves using big pockets. Very blind climbing on the upper part due to the recent rain washing the chalk away.
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7b+ | ★ Apadrina un Mito - with Roberto Lopez | 25m | ★ Good | Wed 15th Mar 2017 | ||||
Good climbing.
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7a | ★★ El Mar de los Largazos | 30m | ★ Good | Wed 22nd Feb 2017 | ||||
Onsighted first pitch but fell at the last bolt of the 7b. Very hard boulder. Stepped right and used the hole. This is the way the route will go in future. Grade amended to 7a.
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7a | ★★ El Mar de los Largazos | 30m | ★ Good | Wed 15th Mar 2017 | ||||
A great warmup
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7a | ★★ El Mar de los Largazos | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th Feb 2017 | ||||
Took the easy option at the top to make it a great warmup.
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6a+ | ★★ Erikindia - with Peter Maier | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Dec 2022 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Erikindia | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Jan 2023 | |||||
6a+ Easy | ★★ Erikindia | Sat 14th Jan 2023 | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Erikindia | Average | Tue 2nd Jan 2024 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
- with
Octavian Rotariu
1
lead by
Jalon Avens
2
lead by
Octavian Rotariu
3
lead by
Jalon Avens
4
lead by
Octavian Rotariu
5
lead by
Jalon Avens
| 160m | Sat 23rd Dec 2017 | |||||
Alternating leads, leading pitches 1, 3 & 5.
|
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5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Oct 2019 | ||||
5 |
★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
1
3
160m
2
3
3
4
4
4
5
5
| 160m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Feb 2020 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 8th Sep 2020 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 16th Mar 2020 | ||||
5+ 5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour - with Passion for climbing | 160m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Oct 2021 | ||||
Muy fácil, curiosa, y disfrutona, recomendable para echar un par de horas de escalada con un rapel inicial guapísimo.
|
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5 |
★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
1
3
160m
2
3
3
4
4
4
5
5
| 160m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 6th Dec 2021 | ||||
A fun half day affair but beware the queues on weekends, better to go in the week when less people abound. First two pitches are scrambles (no need to rope up really), the third pitch is where the action starts! The aerial traverse past the ledge across the corner, hanging right above the sea gets the adrenaline flowing nicely, especially if it's windy day! The last two pitches are just pure jug fest and a lot of fun.
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5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour - with Sento Carabassa | 160m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th May 2016 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Nov 2019 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | Fri 30th Sep 2022 | |||||
5 Hard | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | ★ Good | Mon 21st Nov 2022 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | Fri 22nd Nov 2019 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | Sat 8th Jan 2022 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour - with Pete | 160m | Sat 3rd Dec 2022 | |||||
5+ ~5+ |
★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
- with
Vilches
1
3
2
3
3
4+
4
4+
5
5+
| 160m | Wed 7th Dec 2022 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Dec 2022 | ||||
5 ~5+ |
★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
1
3
2
3
3
4
4
4
5
5
| 160m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Oct 2022 | ||||
5 Hard | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | Fri 6th Jan 2023 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour (Magical Mystery Tour) | 160m | Wed 2nd Dec 2015 | |||||
Excellent stroll along the sea cliffs. Yes, you can do the rap on a single 70m - just make sure you tie knots on the ends.
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5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour - with RockrockerMo | 160m | ★ Good | Sat 28th Jan 2023 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | |||||
5 Hard |
★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
- with
Sven
1
3
5
2
3
5
3
4
20
lead by
Sven
4
4
20
5
5
20
lead by
Sven
| 70m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th May 2023 | ||||
You can't get much more exposure within a 5.
|
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5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 3rd Nov 2023 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th Nov 2023 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 5th Nov 2023 | ||||
5 ~5+ | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour - with Itzi | 160m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 11th Nov 2023 | ||||
Spectacular route with easy climbing, but bolts are really far spaced sometimes.
|
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5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | Tue 5th Dec 2023 | |||||
5+ ~5+ |
★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
1
3
2
3
3
4+
4
4+
5
5+
| 160m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Dec 2023 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 1st Nov 2019 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour | 160m | Thu 1st Oct 2020 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour - with MMJK | 160m | Fri 16th Feb 2024 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
1
3
2
3
3
4
4
4
5
5
| 160m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 25th Feb 2024 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour - with Louis and the burning sun | 160m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Oct 2022 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour - with Gorane, ibarra, Dani | 160m | ★ Good | Mon 1st Apr 2024 | ||||
5 | ★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour - with Daniel Arias | 160m | Thu 2nd May 2024 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour
- with
Jose, Jesus
1
3
2
3
3
4
4
4
5
5
| 160m | Sun 12th May 2024 | |||||
Alicante Sierra de Toix Racó del Corv | ||||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Via Missing Link | 140m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Dec 2014 | ||||
With Neil. P1 - clean 2nd; P2 - O/S. Both pitches are involved, intimidating, runout on manky gal-bolts and HARD. The 50m sea-level traverse is very delicate on spoogy slopers with intricate moves, with a high chance of ending up falling into the sea (and real drama) if you come off on lead or 2nd. The mega-exposed 35m steep arete of P2 pushes your exposure threshold to the limit as you run it out clipping the occasional manky tat and plug in some gear. Very "out there!" Some choss at top of P2.
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Via Missing Link - with Heiko Strathmann, Lea Goetz | 140m | Tue 2nd Jan 2018 | |||||
Alternate leads: Lea P1, Heiko P2, me P3 split into 2 pitches. Found PS quite hard and pumpy!
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Via Missing Link | 140m | Thu 30th Dec 2021 | |||||
Second pitch has the best climbing for this grade that I know. First pitch is interesting especially if it is still wet from the sea Some slings for threads are useful on the first pitch. The second one has plenty of bolts.
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Via Missing Link - with Nachstieg Niklas | 140m | Fri 8th Dec 2023 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ El Dorado 1 | 80m, 1 | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
6a+ |
★★★ El Dorado 1
- with
NE Brian
1
4a
lead by
brian
2
6a+
lead by
hanky
3
6a+
lead by
brian
| 80m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Mar 2014 | ||||
Traverse in- then steep sea cliff climbing following large crack/weakness with big jugs-then slab (more delicate to finish). Brilliant atmospher
|
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6a+ | ★★★ El Dorado 1 | 80m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Dec 2014 | ||||
With Neil. P1 - Clean 2nd; P2 - O/S; P3 - Clean 2nd. The short airy waterline traverse on P1 is fun, and the short slab on P3 is enjoyable, but the money is on the steep and runout 35m slopey groove/crack system on P2. Quite sustained (pushing the utter limits of what can be called 6a+) and with plenty of spoohy seaside slopers to remind you of the exposure. Very old school.
|
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6a+ | ★★★ El Dorado 1 | 80m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 29th Dec 2016 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ El Dorado 1 | 80m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 8th Sep 2020 | ||||
6a+ |
★★★ El Dorado 1
1
4c
15
2
6a+
35
3
6a+
30
| 80m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Nov 2020 | ||||
Amazing route above the water. Super exposed. First pitch is a bit sketchy with insufficient bolting. 2nd pitch is where the fun starts, slightly overhanging on jugs. Great fun
|
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6a+ | ★★★ El Dorado 1 - with Manuel segarra | 80m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 5th Jan 2021 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ El Dorado 1 - with Josep Canós | 80m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 3rd Jul 2021 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ El Dorado 1 | 80m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Jun 2021 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ El Dorado 1 | 80m, 1 | Fri 22nd Nov 2019 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ El Dorado 1 - with Peter Maier | 80m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th Dec 2022 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ El Dorado 1 | 80m, 1 | Sat 17th Dec 2022 | |||||
6a+ |
★★★ El Dorado 1
1
5
20m
2
6a+
35m
3
6a+
25m
| 80m, 1 | Thu 12th Oct 2023 | |||||
6a+ |
★★★ El Dorado 1
- with
Julia
1
5
20m
2
6a+
35m
3
6a+
25m
| 80m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 31st Dec 2023 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ El Dorado 1 | 80m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 22nd Mar 2024 | ||||
6a+ |
★★★ El Dorado 1
- with
Dani
1
5
20m
2
6a+
35m
3
6a+
25m
| 80m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd Apr 2024 | ||||
6a+ Hard | ★★★ El Dorado 1 | 80m, 1 | ★ Good | Thu 25th Apr 2024 | ||||
7a | ★★ Clive's Redoubt | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Dec 2014 | ||||
Didnt quite sort the final move of the crux sequence (probably 7a+ in itself) on the onsight, and took quite a whip skipping a bolt. Another contender for greatest climbs of the trip. Battle up 40m of sustained 6c+-7a moves. Super techy slab start, hard rooflet and steep sharp jugs, nefarious face/seam sequence to an outrageous finish through a big roof... all this over the crashing of the waves. Im happy with the EOD battle effort I put into this one. 11 bolts in total... yes its quite runout.
|
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7a | ★★ Clive's Redoubt | 40m | Thu 30th Dec 2021 | |||||
Alicante Sierra de Toix Toix TV - Tropical Dreams | ||||||||
4 | ★★ Gnadenbrot - with Monika Duda | 18m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Dec 2023 | ||||
4 | ★★ Gut zu Fuß - with Monika Duda | 18m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Dec 2023 | ||||
5 | ★★ Moriz + Matilda - with Monika Duda | 18m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Dec 2023 | ||||
5 | ★★ Moriz + Matilda - with Antek B | 18m | Sun 24th Dec 2023 | |||||
6a | ★★ Atlantis | 23m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Mar 2024 | ||||
Quite nice, one crimpy move on the higher slab.
|
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6a | ★★ Atlantis - with Antek B | 23m | Sun 24th Dec 2023 | |||||
6a | ★ Seduction | 22m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Apr 2006 | ||||
Difficult route, particularly the smearing before the 2nd clip.
|
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6a | ★ Seduction | 22m | Mon 22nd Nov 2010 | |||||
6a | ★ Seduction - with Mahela | 22m | Tue 25th Oct 2022 | |||||
6a | ★ Seduction | 22m | ★ Good | Sat 30th Mar 2024 | ||||
The easiest of the four 6A I climbed here. OK route
|
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6a | ★ Seduction - with Antek B | 22m | Sun 24th Dec 2023 | |||||
5 | ★★ Gufelwufel | 22m | Average | Thu 11th May 2006 | ||||
Not overly fun
|
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5 | ★★ Gufelwufel | 22m | Mon 22nd Nov 2010 | |||||
5 | ★★ Gufelwufel | 22m | ★ Good | Fri 5th May 2017 | ||||
5 | ★★ Gufelwufel | 22m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th Mar 2022 | ||||
5 Hard | ★★ Gufelwufel | 22m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Mar 2024 | ||||
Bit hard for the grade
|
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5 | ★★ Gufelwufel - with Antek B | 22m | Sun 24th Dec 2023 | |||||
6a | ★★ Universal | 20m | ★ Good | Sat 29th Apr 2006 | ||||
Spent ages working out where the route goes - further left of the route I took. Enough to defeat Rob!
|