Routes in El Chorro

A beautiful long pitch with some amazing holds, albeit some are polished. The route name is written in white at the start of the route. Latest Rockfax and 2022 local guidebook grade it 6a.

To retreat you can either abseil all the way back down but with care because the route goes to the right after 2nd pitch.

The other way is to go left after last pitch until you find an abseil station marked with a white heart on the rock. You will need a 70m rope. After the abseil follow the cairns down and then to the right through more cairns until you get to the other side of the mountain where you will see a trail marked with more cairns and red spots where the trail becomes common with the Amptrax retreat route.

The next line of bolts left of Facilonga

Starts up an easy slab below a large hole, then trends slightly left up the line of white holds.

THE classic multi-pitch in 'El Chorro'. Now fully bolted up to the end of pitch 8 for where 4 x 35m abseils will get you back to the ground. The bolting is somewhat spaced in places so it may be worth taking some supplementary gear if this is at your limit. Gear is also useful for the 9th pitch which is otherwise a steep, bolt-less scramble with quite a lot of loose stones. The popularity of this route have left their mark, especially on the crux sections of pitch 4 and 5. Those 6a may feel well on the upper end of the scale therefore. Semi hanging belays add to the joy. A top class route. Look out for the mini Budda in a pocket come hole.

For the descent there are several options. Some people abseil back down the route from the top of pitch 5. In case you continue until the end of pitch 8, you can abseil via a 4x35m abseil piste. A third option is to continue up the easy 9th pitch. From the top of pitch 9 follow red points upwards right to a notch in the skyline. From there follow cairns and red dots down right into the valley, which will eventually turn left and lead you to the exit path of Caminito del Rey.

A natural and obvious line going up to a DBB.

Thin face through fingery moves. Shares anchor with "He's got the jaen".

Nice long ramble up the side of the arab steps. Some loose rock needs to be considered, but the presence of many many bolts will calm your nerves. A nice intro into multi pitch climbing and not very committing. Those who want to climb quickly can easily link pitches, a 70m rope will link any 2 pitches.

The route starts in the obvious broken corner ramp and follows up and left for two pitches before heading out right through a steeper wall and continuing all the way to the top trending slightly right. Bolts will lead the way.

To descend, scramble off the top and down the right towards the arab steps. Follow these all the way down.

All anchors and protection are bomber.

Follow a small crack to the top.

The topo is outdated. This line and "Soy Caliente" have their own anchor, respectively.

Follows the weakness up most of the way till you step out L onto face before the last bolt and crux.

Follow the crack to the anchor with the crux at the start. Shares anchor with "Shake your money maker".

A pleasing slab climb for the grade.

Wonderful line up in the centre. Will test your perseverance at the top before you can clip the chains. Has suffered from many ascents and is now competing for most polished route of El Chorro. Still worth doing!

A long and intimidating line that goes up the brown wall on jugs to a steep finish. Pumpy!

A nice route up the corner. Shared anchor with "Toast".

The next line of bolts left of Paton

A nice little expedition. The slightly overhanging crux in pitch 3 is well protected. Slab and vertical climbing everywhere else. The description in the Rockfax guide is confusing – Just follow the bolts.

There are new belays in P1 and P2, so that the route is possible with a 60m rope. There are bolts that continue above, but grading and extent is unknown.

Starts on a short blank wall via a pocket and high edge, it continues on a great upper wall

Some nice slab climb with smears.

A slaby climb that shares anchors with "Autovia de las cabras".

A direct start to "Conejo al Tomillo". Climb up through boulge (crux) to finish up the last couple of bolts of "Conejo al Tomillo".

Worthwhile climb, unfortunately short.

An interesting steep start with a fun little finish.

Thin diagonal crack and wall.

Follows a crack up the wall. Dry in the rain.

A pleasing beginner climb with varied move heading up the slab and then around the arete to DBB.

A good route that has an odd starting mantle and then to an awkward corner and chimney to DBB.

Follow the ring bolts. The fixed hangers are for the harder variations...

The left of three closely spaced line of bolts. Shares the first with 'Sin Mantenimiento' and possibly better than it if only because it follows a more obvious line of holds.

Khutsishvili, Shota on YouTube

Interesting and pumpy climbing.

Start up the scrappy-looking gully left of 'Ostras Pedrin', then up the pleasant face above. Much better than it looks.

An awkward start over the blocks just left of the gully leads to some nice climbing over small overhangs.

Follows the flake and corner system then continues to an awkward finish with the anchors directly above.

Easy ramble up the left-leading ramp to start (3FH) then straight up the pocketed wall above (4FH) to lower off just under tree.

Fun climbing and good moves for the grade.

Go up the L side of slab and step out R to pocketed face and mantle R of the large boulder shaped like an elephant's head.

Great rock and sustained interesting moves. Follow the cracks.

A long pitch with great climbing passing "El vuelo de los peluos" before trending right to a fingery finish.

The next line of bolts left of Kuki

Start as for "Pie slice" but head R before the shrubs. Follow crack to DBB. Shares anchor with "Pie slice".

8a.nu consensus 6a/+.

Great consistent climbing. Perfect easy into to El Chorro multi pitch.

1. 5+, 20m. Climb to a belay ledge in an alcove.

2. 5+, 20m. Pull up into the cornerand follow it to a ledge.

On the upper crag, classic just because it gets you to the top of the pinnacle.