Routes in Spain for selected grade

To retreat you can either abseil all the way back down but with care because the route goes to the right after 2nd pitch.

The other way is to go left after last pitch until you find an abseil station marked with a white heart on the rock. You will need a 70m rope. After the abseil follow the cairns down and then to the right through more cairns until you get to the other side of the mountain where you will see a trail marked with more cairns and red spots where the trail becomes common with the Amptrax retreat route.

1. Travesía y fisura

2. Fisura/babaresa de dedos

3. Sale a la izq. de la reu, se protege un pelín mal.

4. Placa de setas, largo equipado con parabolts, aunque arriba se puede lacerar alguna seta grande.

5. Fisura

6. Fisura, reu sobre un cable de montar que se puede reforzar con cosillas.

Different guidebooks 5b-6a.

#sitstart #topout

The obvious chimney is as easy as it looks

6a sin tocar la laja de la derecha. Si se toca es 5+.

An interesting steep start with a fun little finish.

Smooth and polished in places, dirty and loose in others -- but one of the few moderate routes up the cliff, and with a stunning view at the end of pitch 5 on the ridge.

There is lots of bolts and fixed slings, but a light rack to supplement is a good idea unless completely comfortable at the grade. All belays are bolted.

1. 3 35m. Climb blocky, dirty, polished rock with lots of loose gravel right, then left around a shrubbery to a bolted belay below a white slab.

2. 3 45m. Climb on treed ledges left, then back right again to belay at the top of the slab above the first belay.

3. 5+ 35m. Scramble up the ledge (chains) to the end, then up the corner rightwards. At the top of the corner, turn right, up the polished offwidth crack (crux). At the top of this, stay right and up to a bolted anchor.

4. 4 25m. Walk slightly left to a polished start to the large slab, then proceed up and slightly left to a belay beside a bush.

5. 4 30m. Continue up the slab on climbing that is finally pleasant to a stunning belay on top of the ridge.

6. 4+ 30m. Walk along the ridge then traverse left and climb a flake/crack to a bulge, over the bulge, then to a belay.

7. Easy, 25m. Follow the path of least resistance/cleanest rock, to bolted belay, or link with next pitch.

8. Easy, 30m. Follow the path of least resistance/cleanest rock up to the top and bolted belay.

Follow the approach trail up along the cliff until it ends, start on the left side of the hollow.

Vía muy divertida, fácil y bien equipada con parabolts. Croquis y más detalles en elev-arte.com.

Material: 12 cintas express más reunión. Reuniones rapelabes pero mejor salir por arriba.

Se puede empalmar L1 y L2.

Beta video en YouTube

6a written on the wall, 5c in Rockfax guide, 8a.nu consensus5c/6a.

Prominent crack in corner.

Es la última via pequeña pegada al 5+

not possible to reach 6 bolt from ledge, possible runout when you clipping quickdraw. vice versa 4. bolt is useless

Central route; spectacular second pitch, somewhat slick in places

polished :-(

Del segundo punto de reunión al tercero (osea el tercer largo) no hay NINGÚN parabolt. Mucho factor psicológico. Si llevas fisureros puedes meterlos en el techo que tienes que bordear, que presenta una fisura. Aún así es una adherencia asequible pero la distancia hace que sea un tramo de "cabeza". Desde esta tercera reunión hasta el final no hay absolutamente nada provisto. Es un paseo muy largo hasta la cima que si puedes montarte una o dos reuniones con fisureros entre medias te quita de pasar un mal rato.

5 pitch route, that can be divided in more or less pitches.

1. (5) Climb the rib where the name Cilber is printed on the wall. 36m

2. (5+) Climb slightly left to a steep crack, follow the crack then move left past the arête to a stance. 14m

3. (4) Continue straight up following spaced bolts and threads to a belay. 30m

4. (3) A boring pitch moving left following red arrows to a stance under a groove.

5. (4+) Follow the crack in the groove and then move right to the arête. Be careful with lots of loose rock on the arête. Finishes on a lovely ledge. (40m)

Descent: Walk along the ridge following arrows, rappel Lofi.

contiene aleje en la mitad de la vía, ir en modo seguro por que la caida seria tocando suelo ya que son mas de dos metros y medio de cuerda que necesitas para chapar en la siguiente parábol

Reseña Sendero_Limite

• Equipada, 10 cintas
• Reuniones Rapelables

Reseña Sendero_Limite

• Equipada, 12 cintas
• Reuniones Rapelables

beware of runout