Routes as trad in Ågelsjön

Easy and well protected route in the big crack system.

It is a classic route in Ågelsjön perfect for bringing people for their first time climbing outdoors on a top rope or for the new trad climber that wants a well-protected trad climb.

When building a top rope some longer slings/static rope could be good to decrease wear on your rope.

Start in the crack and when it ends go over to the left crack and continue to the top.

Ends at anchor above a ledge, on the wall.

Two bolts then trad gear up to the anchor.

Starts to the right with 3 bolts in the beginning and then trad gear to the anchor which it shares with "Söderleden".

Goes under the fallen tree with two bolts in the beginning with trad gear in the end. Now with the new anchor for "E4-an" it is most logical to go to that anchor.

It starts underneath the small roof and then follows the crack to the top. The top can sometimes be a bit dirty since rain washes down dirt into the crack.

Start a couple of meters to the right of "Autobahn". It has a piton in the roof then follows the crack up to the "Rank Xerox" anchor.

One of the better routes in Ågelsjön and could be almost be classified as a sport route. 6 bolts in the beginning and some gear before the anchor(Or run it out).

Easier start on trad gear and then bolts when it gets harder.

Short crack above "Zappodbebbelbrock", has an anchor above which is used to rapel down to "Zappodbebbelbrock".

Better protected than its neighbour but not a beginner-friendly route for new trad leaders.

New anchor 2020

New anchor 2020

New anchors 2021 To reach the start, use the new anchor with rappel rings

Nice crack climbing up to a bolted belay behind the tree.

Fairly hard to protect and has a loose block in the middle of the route that could fall off.

Delikate route which starts with 3 bolts and then an easier end on trad gear.

Hard climbing on small edges, three-bolt in the beginning, and trad gear in the end or run it out.

Follow the crack up to the shelf. Much easier on top rope because you want to place your gear where your hands are.

Mossy

Mossy

Ny ankare 2020

Ny ankare 2020

Ny ankare 2018

From 'Lynyrd Skynyrds' anchor, exit left towards the ledge.

Extention to 'Lavskägge' New anchor 2020

One bolt then rest nuts and cams. Is fairly hard to protect the first meters after the bolt, needs a good eye for nut placements.

Somewhat hard to protect, bring smaller gear. Can be well protected with the correct gear.

Layback flake with one bolt on the slab. No anchor but it is easy to traverse to the bolted anchor of Sanna

Should have a bolt but could not detect one (2023)

Same start as 'Lord Hård' then continue left after the third bolt. Need trad gear in the end, no anchor!

Easy trad climb in a well-protected crack.

New anchor 2021

New start and top anchor. Birds nesting sometimes, check before rappelling down.

Starts in the dihedral which is located around 50-60 meters left of "Söderleden".

Unclear if this is the true line but it is the only dihedral left of "Söderleden"

It starts under the roof and follows the crack to the right and then up to "Söderleden's" anchor.

It's a little unclear where the routes go, probably straight up past the two cracks. It is very mossy in its current state(2023 September)

Tough start, an easier middle part, and then a little bit cruxy mantling in the end.

Up in the overhanging dihedral then up to "Tjejleden" anchor.

Dirty(2023 September)

Two-bolt in the beginning then own gear up to the anchor.

Should have a bolt in the start which it shares with "Frittfall" but I could not see it (2023-09-01)

Starts as "Ragnarök" and goes up to the same shelf as "Felicia". It should have 2 bolts in the beginning but one seems missing. Dirty(2023-09-01)

One bolt in the end on the slab.

Unclear where this line goes after the creation of "Din typ av klättring". The most logical is clipping the 3 first bolts and then continuing slightly to the left when "Din typ av klättring" goes right to the 4:th bolt. Go up to the next crack where a piton is visible and then up to the anchor.

Varied climbing between slab, crimps, and jams. Follow the bolt line until it ends then travers into the crack that goes to the top. Make sure that the belayer is clipped into the bolt at the ground.

It is unclear where the line goes, however, the crack left from the bolts seems to be the correct line.

Very mossy at the moment, two bolts can be seen behind the moss.

Climb in the small dihedral, not easy to protect.

Start in the small crack to the right of the small roof, climb the crack up to the roof where it joins with "Tuborg"

Hard crux

New anchor 2020

mixed route

New anchor 2020

New anchor 2020

New anchor 2020