Showing all 97 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ||||||
I am not doing as well as I did last Fall or in years before, kind of embarassing.. Maybe not ideal conditions, my beta at the 3rd bolt feels wrong for clipping, and I can't find a rest after the intense start on the left anymore. The dynamic dead point crux after bolt 5 was going great on top rope last week but with the 5th bolt clipped I get pulled to the left and need to use my left foot where I thought the right should go. Intermediate crimp feels bad in humid weather but I need to pull up more on it.
At the top: after clipping low on the 30mm edge, get pinch and bring feet up, get a left hold and there are 2 ok for a few seconds holds above the anchor.
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6a | Buffy | Average | |||||
Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Miraculix | ★ Good | |||||
6b+ Easy | ★★ Brown Sugar | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ★★ Very Good | |||||
7b Easy | ★★ Freaky Deaky — 2 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sun 14th May 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Ignition — 3 attempts | ||||||
eat up to final crux, cruise and solve!
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Sat 13th May 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7b Easy | ★★ Freaky Deaky — 3 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra — 2 attempts | ||||||
7b | ★★ Freaky Deaky | ||||||
Sun 7th May 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c ~6b+ | Krucifix | Average | |||||
7b Easy | ★★ Freaky Deaky | ★★ Very Good | |||||
7b | ★★★ Direct Freaky — 5 attempts | ||||||
Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7b Hard | ★★ Freaky Deaky — 2 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★ Obelix | ★ Good | |||||
7b Easy | ★★ Freaky Deaky | ★ Good | |||||
6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a Hard | ★★ Partaj | ||||||
Well when I looked at the tick list, only tall climbers had ticked it... Maybe a reason? The second bolt seems easy enough to clip, but the sequence to the left is a bit mind-boggling, and the sequence higher up seems impossibly reachy for the grade (I am 171 cm, +1). Only one old rusted quick link sits at the top for an anchor. Tried with clip stick and then on top rope (with a QD),
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7a | ★ Auktion Direkt | ★ Good | |||||
start was quite slippery especially with ice, grips did not feel remotely possible there. Further up, where sun hits the wall, it was more doable. Anchors were not visible but exist. Not sure I would try again due to fall potential, but some moves were nice, especially the sequence further up
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6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★ Brown Sugar — 3 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
took me more than a few tries, and I was in decent shape having gotten Panta Rei a few weeks before. feels a bit heavier than some 6b+ unless you're much taller. committing for the grade. Tried this over several years once a year or so
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Sun 14th Aug 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Direct Freaky | ★★★ Classic | |||||
First RP attempt today and fell literally at the anchor because I messed up the feet haha. Make sure you memorise the final moves!
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6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Climbed after worming and sending Tabu so was a bit pumped and misread crux sequence. Crux is such very good when you know the sequence.
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7b | ★★★ Direct Freaky | ★★★ Classic | |||||
It went! Despite the heat and lack of finger skin. Crimped hard and just went for it. Second proper attempt this session (after falling at the anchor on first attempt!) so five or six goes overall. Pretty chuffed with that. Top route with great crimps. My fourth or fifth 7b!
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6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Always a great route and finger warm up. Climbed direct up the crack instead of weaving out to the left easier variation.
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6a+ | ★ Miraculix | ★ Good | |||||
Nice little bicep warm up
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Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Partaj - with Shaun Hurrell | ||||||
Scared to do the third clip but did crux first go
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7a | ★★ Partaj - with Shaun Hurrell | ||||||
Fucked up 3rd clip.. Nice sequence. Will have to come back
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7a+ | ★ Diggelo - with Shaun Hurrell | ||||||
Fell on the final jug on my onsight attempt.. then took 4 more tries as short, bouldery route but fun!
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6a+ | ★ Miraculix - with Shaun Hurrell | ||||||
7a | ★ Obelix - with Shaun Hurrell | ||||||
2nd go. Fell at last move on the onsight
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7a | ★★ Partaj | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Second go. Very nice crux sequence.
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7a+ | ★ Diggelo | ★ Good | |||||
Very beta specific but fun route despite the length! 6th go over 2 sessions (first a long time ago).
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7a | ★ Obelix | ★ Good | |||||
2nd go
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Sun 12th Jun 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6a+ | ★ Miraculix | ★ Good | |||||
Sat 21st May 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7b+ 7b | ★★ Freaky Deaky | ||||||
harder than Direct Freaky, key feet at start now missing
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7b | ★★★ Direct Freaky | ||||||
Sketchy third clip, bolt positioning not the smartest but a genius line
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7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ||||||
Pumpy. Easy for the grade but needs endurance for the last clip or enjoy the flight!
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Tue 17th May 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ||||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ||||||
Second go. Pumpy for 6c+!
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6c | ★ Nacka Kvarn | ||||||
Sun 15th May 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a+ | ★ Diggelo | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Thu 12th May 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Was pumped after working on Freaky Deaky Direkt so was pleased to get this on the second go after working out the crux beta
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Tue 26th Oct 2021 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ||||||
Wed 29th Sep 2021 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c | ★★ Brown Sugar | ||||||
7a+ | My fair lady | ||||||
7a+ | Buffy direkt (Buffy direct) | ||||||
6c | Flap | ||||||
3 | Jag ber om ursäkt och tar tillbaka min FA | ||||||
Sun 13th Jun 2021 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6a+ 6a | Buffy | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ||||||
Sat 29th May 2021 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Fri 2nd Oct 2020 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6a | Buffy | ||||||
6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ★ Good | |||||
Sun 26th Apr 2020 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★ Auktion Direkt | ★ Good | |||||
Sumpade onsighten på sista skicket, lite snopet. Gick stabilt på andra. Riktigt cool linje som jag lyckats missa under alla dessa år.
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7a+ | ★ Diggelo (Diggilo) | ★ Good | |||||
Långt ifrån onsight. Lätt på andra. Kort o kul - roligt att hitta nytt (för mig) på Nacka Kvarn!
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Wed 25th Mar 2020 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
Nacka kvarn boulder | |||||||
6B | ★ Sträck på dig SDS | ★ Good | |||||
6A | Sträck på dig stand | ||||||
6B+ | Sträck på dig äckel | ||||||
FA
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6B+ 6C | ★ Äcklet | ★ Good | |||||
Wed 17th Apr 2019 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Miraculix | ||||||
Nice (pumpy for the grade) warm-up
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5b | Coach | ||||||
Ended up free solo downclimbing / faffing as no anchor haha
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6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Lovely pumpy crimpy route
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Sun 1st May 2016 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c | ★ Nacka Kvarn | ★ Good | |||||
Bra led!
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Wed 19th Aug 2015 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c+ | ★ Annika | ★ Good | |||||
Fin och rätt oklättrad (?). Jag startade i Partaj och uteslöt det stora blocket/flaket helt och hållet. Då tyckte jag den höll 7a, trots att den gick ner på andra försöket. Väldigt skoj, tycker fler borde köra den!
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7a | ★★ Partaj | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Yes! Trodde jag var för klen för sista kruxet, men det gick med noggrann beta. Kort, men har så fina flytt att jag tycker den är den finaste på kvarnen för graden. Typ 4-5 pressen. Mkt nöjd!
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6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ||||||
Ganska fin, var på den nån gång förra året och då blev det bara konstigt. Nu satt den på första.
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Sat 27th Jun 2015 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Partaj | ★ Good | |||||
Kul grej! 2nd go.
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Fri 12th Jun 2015 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Super freaky | ★★★ Classic | |||||
YES!! På det sjätte smäller det, tydligen. Väldigt fin led från start till mål. Löste mittsektionen med en ordentlig catch som satt som en smäck. Rekommenderas superstarkt!
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Sun 21st Sep 2014 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a+ 7b | ★★ Freaky Deaky | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Yes! Där satt den. Kanonfin och valgraderad led. Starten är väldigt beroende av bra stick, så undvik när det är för varmt.
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Mon 9th Jun 2014 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Miraculix | ★ Good | |||||
6a+ | ★ Miraculix | ||||||
Thu 22nd May 2014 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Mon 5th May 2014 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Lutande Tornet | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Andra försöket. Jättefin led - finare än Totalvägra enligt mig.
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6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ||||||
Andra försöket. Kruxet kommer på slutet
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Mon 28th Apr 2014 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ★ Good | |||||
Tredje dagen, sjätte försöket. Gött
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7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Väldig fint o teknisk. Gillar skarpt
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7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sat 19th Apr 2014 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c | ★ Nacka Kvarn | ★ Good | |||||
Kul och teknisk.
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6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ||||||
Kort o krimpig!
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Fri 13th Sep 2013 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ||||||
6c | ★ Nacka Kvarn | ||||||
Wed 12th Sep 2012 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ★★ Very Good | |||||
En av fem leder 2012. ÄNTLIGEN!!!!
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Thu 6th Aug 2009 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Riktigt fin led.
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Wed 16th Jul 2008 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Partaj | ||||||
Wed 8th Aug 2007 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ||||||
Repeat. En fin led helt klart
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Tue 7th Aug 2007 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ||||||
Repitition av min första 7a.
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Sat 6th May 2006 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★ Obelix | ||||||
Sun 30th May 2004 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ||||||
7a | ★ Auktion Direkt | ||||||
Sun 12th Aug 2012 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ★★★ Classic | |||||
6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Consistent, overhanging, short and heavy.
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Showing all 97 ascents.