Routes in Berner Oberland for selected grade

Stand kann vom Austieg aus ca. 15m linkshaltend hoch an einem Bohrhaken (Bohrhaken gehört zum Fixseil) gemacht werden.

5a obl.

A classic and probably the easiest route on to scale Pfriendler. Many bolts and easy to protect additionally with slings, nuts, or friends.

Pitch 1: Starts next top the foot path descending from the summit in a dihedral on the left of the wall. There are two lines immediately next to each other here. Both lead to the same anchor. The "Via Fritz" is the line with more bolts. On the very left (almost inside the dihedral) is an older line that does not have any bolts in the first few meters. Pitch 2: Straight up from the first anchor. There seems to be another unknown line on the left of it with less bolts.

After pitch two, walk 15m to the left on the grassy ledge. Until you see beginning the next pitch (bolt at the base).

Pitch 3: Climb straight up and then a little to the left into the dihedral where you find the next anchor. Pitch 4: Starts inside the dihedral but exits it quickly on the right, then up and easy to the next anchor. Pitch 5 (can be linked with P4): Easy climbing straight up along a slabby dihedral. Pitch 6: Continuation of P5 in the same style. First a little to the right, then up trough a dihedral to a comfortable belay. Pitch 7: The hardest pitch. The hard moves are right at the beginning on an almost vertical wall. Climb straight up onto the ridge. Pitch 8: Optionally one can climb to the summit on the left trough a dihedral (no bolts).

Descent on foot. Or rappel from either the summit (2x50m) or from the end of Pitch 7 (2x50) to the foot path/traverse between pitch 2/3. From here descent either on foot or rappel the first two pitches (1x35m and 1x30m)

5b obl.

50m rope, 10 quickdraws, nuts

Orange Bolts

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/hochtour/finsteraarhorn-suedostgrat/

50 Meter Seil Keile; Ja, Frinds; 0.5-2, Express; 8, Abstieg und 3*25 Meter Abseilen Abstieg über den Grat und dann 3x25 Meter abseilen, Abseilpsite eingerichtet