Routes in Berner Oberland for selected grade

Nicht ausgerüstet, steile Verschneidung 5c, A1

Logische Linie in sehr schletem Ausrüstungszustand

The route follows a defining system of cracks. It is easy to protect with cams and nuts.

Start on the left of a large pillar.

1. (5c) Climb on top of the pillar to the first belay.

2. (5b) Straight up from the pillar along the crack to the second belay.

3. (5a) Start traversing to the right on an obvious ramp until you make it to the right of a large flake above. Climb straight up onto this flake. From there climb up and towards the right to reach the final anchor.

The route has to be protected with trad gear (cams, BD sizes 2-0.5, set of nuts, a couple of slings are useful). The anchors are bolted and equipped with chains and rappel rings.

Descent on foot by following the cairns up and to the right; or rappel the route (ca. 60m).

green bolts, 5b obl.

More difficult last pitch variant of the route "T4 – Trift-Turi’s-Tellti-Türmli (T4)".

Start the first two pitches of the original route.

In the third pitch continue traversing to the right past the large flake until you reach another dihedral. There climb straight up until the flatter topout and then to the final anchor of the orignal route.

clean start on good crack

Alle Stände zum Abseilen eingerichtet 2x50 Meter Seil, 12 Express Keile: 2-8, Frinds 0.5-2

Achtung grosse Hakenabstände!! Route besteht nur aus 2 Seillängen, endet auf der Höhe wo Säg sälü und Me Gusta zusammenkommen

4b, 5c, 4b, 4a, 4b, 4a

5b obl. Abseilen über die Route

50 Meter Seil, Express; 10 Stk

Lange Route abseits des Rummels

rote BH

50 Meter Seil

In der 3. Seillänge ist ein Routenbuch

blaue BH