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Routes as trad in Academic Buttress

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Showing all 8 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
E2 6a Pathos

Steeper lower arête leads to slab with slim crack. Feels bold as gear (Friend 3.5) is hidden out of view.

Trad 20m Avon Gorge
E5 6c Ares

The right hand side of the Pathos arête. Start up the bulging arête as for Pathos and Academic. Follow Pathos onto the grassy ledge then step up and right back onto the arête, fix a Friend 3.5 in the shallow slot and stretch to clip the peg (new and good) on Pathos. From the cam slot leave Pathos via a long reach to a big sloper on the arête. Continue up the right hand side of the arête via a series of hard snatches between small holds to the sanctuary of a good flat hold. Fix the final protection if desired (a slider 1, which can be borrowed from the first ascensionist) and make the final easier moves to a large ledge. Continue up the arête to the lower off of Academic and Eros.

Style of FA – Headpoint (process started before the reinstallation of the Pathos peg)

Also worth noting that second ascensionist Martin Crocker, climbed an easier and slightly safer left hand variation. From the big sloper this moves up the left-hand side of the arête with feet on the Pathos slab. This is E5 6b.

Trad 20m Avon Gorge
E2 5c Senile Decay Trad 20m Avon Gorge
HVS 5b Mellow Yellow Trad 20m Avon Gorge
HVS 5a Kitnova Park Trad 25m Avon Gorge
E6 6c The Minute Waltz

Hard, just off vertical climbing up wall left of the groove. Peg in the belay stops you rolling down to the car park if you come off.

Trad 6m Avon Gorge
E2 5c Bathos Trad 12m Avon Gorge
HS 4b Eros Trad 15m Avon Gorge

Showing all 8 routes.

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