Ascents in Avon Gorge having Beta

Scary. The beginning sets you in the wrong mindset for the rest of the route. The quality of the rock is terrible at the beginning, dubious in the mid and ok at the top. Took a longer than expected.

Thought we were on hells gates. Oops

Really nice movements on better rock than you expect in Avon

Matt lead Suspense first and said 'you can leave my gear in for the first 1/3 since it's the same for your lead and a bit spicy'. The gear I left in was one thread 2m off the ground... Got in one more shitty cam before gunning it to the grassy ledge. Got pretty pumped and terrified in the groove, placed 4 or 5 bits of mediocre gear next to each other, decided one of them would hold, had a rest, wow they did, suddenly I can see all these stemming footholds and climb with a lil bit of emotional & physical separation from the wall, which worked.

Oh and got a pigeon to the face at the big cave thread after the crux. Didn't thread it, not really necessary to disturb her nest further.

Classic British trad evening, loved it.

Very exposed, best VS on the butress.

GOOD BUT BROKEN CLIMB, GRET VIEWS

Amazing view, a lot of public. I freaked out a couple of times going the wrong way.

Led P1 only as I left P3 for my friend Luis to enjoy. Found P1 quite scary, the first 5-8mts without much protection. I have seen that lots of people uses the flake at the top of P1 for belaying. Wondering for how long that flake will stay there...

Enjoy the topout

easy climb

Bringing up a friend. We abseiled down.

A bit of fitness training

Bringing a friend up.

Poor protection, great route.

total classic, which makes sense as it's in classic rock! I led the crux pitch (P1) and george led P2&3.

Classic Avon route

did first pitch and a half of central rib and then traversed into the end of central gully as there was another team on piton route and didn't want to cross ropes. will have to come back for P3!

so good

now given Severe. Alt leads with George

Climbed it in one pitch as part of a speed climbing challenge. Measured 4m55s

Led P1 & 2 as one pitch. Robyn led P3

Gets two stars in the old guide, i should have checked here first. It's filthy and uninspiring.

I did 2nd and 3rd pitches together. I went left on the third pitch to spice up things.

Climbed it in one pitch as part of a speed climbing challenge.

Climbed it in one pitch as part of a speed climbing challenge.

Lead the piss easy P2. P1 must be nails to lead (thanks Rhys), pretty run out, not much gear, need good foot work

Nice climb, massive run out at the slab.

Poor

Made it in one pitch in a speed climbing challenge.

One of the best routes in the gorge, combine it with Krapps last Tape to start, or with main wall eliminate

Felt quite sketchy as 2nd, don't wanna imagine leading it. No gear when it goes rightwards, Rhys had to go slightly off route to the left to get a piton

Nice and techy with lots of rests

Confusing but good route. Probably the easiest in the crag.

I think I traversed to high so it was quite hard.

Couldn't feel my fingertips from the cold!

Really good route. It didn't feel hard for the grade. It seems that I have done it before but I can't remember.

Just one rest, nearly done in one go. Very nice route.

Better defined than it’s neighbours. Feels less squeezed.

Technical and insecure, nice climbing though!

Beginning really polished, nice route after that.

Very loose. All the routes in the New Quarry are rarely climbed.

Two laps top rope soloing connecting moves. Should go on lead, very sustained with a solid crux sequence at the top.

Almost! Messed up a move in the crux sequence and got pumped.

Was hungover as fuck and rock was scorching, stoked on the send!

One fall/rest.

Awesome route. Hard for the grade.

I fell a couple of times after passing the roof, just in the last move. A little project here.

Good moves but hard to know what is in and what's not.

Warm up

Second try...pretty nice route despite the polish