Ascents in Avon Gorge having Beta

Warm up

Good moves but hard to know what is in and what's not.

Technical and insecure, nice climbing though!

Really nice movements on better rock than you expect in Avon

A nice and always interesting line with a little poor rock

Enjoy the topout

Nice climb for avon, with better friction than you expect.

Amazing view, a lot of public. I freaked out a couple of times going the wrong way.

Scary. The beginning sets you in the wrong mindset for the rest of the route. The quality of the rock is terrible at the beginning, dubious in the mid and ok at the top. Took a longer than expected.

total classic, which makes sense as it's in classic rock! I led the crux pitch (P1) and george led P2&3.

so good

Great climb but bold run out and not great belays on the middle pitches .... at least the climbing was not to technical then. Fun with the exposure!

Slippery as hll. Lives up to it's name.

Led P1 & 2 as one pitch. Robyn led P3

Gets two stars in the old guide, i should have checked here first. It's filthy and uninspiring.

First lap to place a cam on gymslip.

Nice moves if a tad polished

First trad lead!!!

now given Severe. Alt leads with George

Bringing up a friend. We abseiled down.

Nice and techy with lots of rests

Really good route. It didn't feel hard for the grade. It seems that I have done it before but I can't remember.

I think I traversed to high so it was quite hard.

Confusing but good route. Probably the easiest in the crag.

GOOD BUT BROKEN CLIMB, GRET VIEWS

A bit of fitness training

Not sure if tiny underpull in crack left side of Arete is in. Would have been desperate without it.

Great moves but felt hard for a V5

Was hungover as fuck and rock was scorching, stoked on the send!

Third go in a session, nice movements after a tough bouldery start

Felt really easy this time

Better defined than it’s neighbours. Feels less squeezed.

Second try...pretty nice route despite the polish

Awesome route. Hard for the grade.

Lovely laybacking

I did 2nd and 3rd pitches together. I went left on the third pitch to spice up things.

Poor protection, great route.

Classic Avon route

Very loose. All the routes in the New Quarry are rarely climbed.

Led P1 only as I left P3 for my friend Luis to enjoy. Found P1 quite scary, the first 5-8mts without much protection. I have seen that lots of people uses the flake at the top of P1 for belaying. Wondering for how long that flake will stay there...

Very exposed, best VS on the butress.

Poor

Did in 3 pitches...first section boring but second half v nice

easy climb

One of the best routes in the gorge, combine it with Krapps last Tape to start, or with main wall eliminate

A great little route taking the prominent groove and capping overhang 30ft right of idelburger buttress

Linked first two pitches

daunting roof but dont be intimidated, easy when you find the crack nice climb.

Alt leads with ted and lydia

polished to a mirror like shine.

Bringing a friend up.

Just one rest, nearly done in one go. Very nice route.