Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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7b 7b+ | ★★ Chulilla - with Eva Herbst | Brean Down | Sat 23rd Mar 2019 | ||||||
Started from the ground but since read you should start from the boulder, thought the start felt hard! From the last bolt I went up some right holds and someone shouted I should keep left, came back down after clipping the anchor to try the left way and felt the same. Looks like there is a nice 8a variation to try next time!
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7a+ | ★ Roof of Inequity (The Root of Inequity) | 17m | Brean Down | ★ Good | Sat 27th Sep 2014 | ||||
Easy up to the roof, which needs a bit of oomph, but the holds are good.
I found campusing it easier than trying to find the usable feet.
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6B | ★ Darkside of the Moon | Other Avon Crags | ★ Good | Sun 12th Jun 2022 | |||||
Smol but fun roof! Never down a "lie down start" before!
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7a | ★★ Pearl Harbour - with Alex.patterson | 15m | Brean Down | Sat 21st Mar 2020 | |||||
3 star jug haul. Quite pumped by the end really
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6c+ | ★ Bikini Atoll | 17m | Brean Down | ★ Good | Sat 15th Nov 2008 | ||||
I DID A ROUTE, OUTSIDE, ON REAL ROCK in between the showers on the only dry patch of rock in southwest England. Glad I saved something at Brean. Not as nasty as people say, definitely not 7a, more like Portland 6c
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6c | ★★ Tied in Knots | Cheddar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Mar 2006 | |||||
quality. The crux never really arrives, but some cool moves
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6c | ★★ Tied in Knots | Cheddar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Mar 2006 | |||||
Quality. The crux never really arrives, but some cool moves. Solid
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6c | The China Shop | 10m | Cheddar | Average | Fri 22nd Sep 2006 | ||||
Discontinuous. Hard bouldery start with juggy finish, solid onsight
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6c | ★★ Coral Sea | 20m | Brean Down | ★ Good | Sun 13th Aug 2006 | ||||
Awesome, solid onsight, good steady climbing. Pumpy but never desperate
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6c | ★ Rustler | Cheddar | ★ Good | Tue 22nd Jul 2008 | |||||
start's nice
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6c | ★★ Tied in Knots | Cheddar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Apr 2007 | |||||
Nice. The crux never really arrives, but totally engaging. Sweet climbing.
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6c | ★★ Coral Sea - with Jennifer H., Jamie T. | 20m | Brean Down | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Feb 2018 | ||||
Intuitive start, pumpy middle section, technical finish. A great climb! QDs were in and some holds ticked.
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5c E2 5c | Epic-Dural | 45m | Fairy Caves Quarry | Sat 26th May 2007 | |||||
Easy for the grade
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E2 5c E2 5c | ★★★ The Goblin King | 20m | Goblin Combe | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th Apr 2019 | ||||
Well protected and noice climbing
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E2 5c E2 5c | ★★ Smaug the Dragon | 20m | Goblin Combe | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Jul 2019 | ||||
Bit spicy really, with the only real gear before the easy crack being a manky pin. But nice moves, easier than the goblin king.
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E3 5c E3 5c | ★ Fix the squeak | Goblin Combe | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Jun 2020 | |||||
Pumpy with average protection, but surely not E3
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5+ | Slopey Side Pulls | Other Avon Crags | Tue 14th Jun 2022 | ||||||
Felt easier than th f4+ tbh. Finished in style by not pulling on tree roots!
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6c 6b+ | ★ Kraken | 17m | Brean Down | Average | Sat 18th Oct 2008 | ||||
poo, and scary clips
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6b 6b+ | ★★ Branchwalker | 18m | Cheddar | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Sep 2006 | ||||
looks ordinary, climbs very well. Nice engaging steady moves, steady onsight
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6b+ | ★★ British Summer Time | 15m | Cheddar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Mar 2007 | ||||
Brilliant, must be one of the best in Cheddar. Totally absorbing wall climbing on slopers, and doesn't let up till the chains. What awesome positioning on the upper arete, climbing basically straight above the road!
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6b+ | ★ Kraken | 17m | Brean Down | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Sep 2018 | ||||
Nicer than the 6a
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6b+ | ★ Dinosaur Beach | 10m, 5 | Avon Gorge | Wed 17th Apr 2019 | |||||
Warm up
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6b+ | ★★ British Summer Time | 15m | Cheddar | ★ Good | Tue 14th Jul 2020 | ||||
Honestly all the routes here feel very similar
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6b+ | ★ Jurassic Lark - with Simon B | 10m, 4 | Avon Gorge | Tue 10th Sep 2019 | |||||
Good moves but hard to know what is in and what's not.
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V2 | ★★ The Wall | 3m | Other Avon Crags | ★★ Very Good | Tue 22nd Jul 2008 | ||||
excellent
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6b | ★★ Speaking to a Dead Man | Cheddar | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Mar 2007 | |||||
Really nice!
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6b | ★★ Opt-Out | 15m | Cheddar | ★ Good | Tue 23rd Oct 2007 | ||||
amazing rock quality - am I in Cheddar??
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6b | ★ 12000 Miles | Cheddar | Average | Sat 10th Mar 2007 | |||||
Has something come off the start? Horrendously shit, harder than the crux on most 7a's.
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6b | ★ Toxic Shock | 7m, 6 | Cheddar | Average | Sat 4th Mar 2006 | ||||
tricky, steeper than it looks
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6b | ★★ Opt-Out | 15m | Cheddar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Sep 2018 | ||||
Really nice if you ignore the heinous start moves to get established
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6b | ★★ Bushmen Don't Surf - with Stu Ivory | 25m, 12 | Avon Gorge | Wed 17th Apr 2019 | |||||
Technical and insecure, nice climbing though!
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6a+ 6b | ★★ Speaking to a Dead Man | Cheddar | Sun 7th Jun 2020 | ||||||
Great climb, deserves the stars
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6b | ★ 12000 Miles | Cheddar | ★ Good | Tue 14th Jul 2020 | |||||
Honestly all the routes here feel very similar
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6b | ★★ Speaking to a Dead Man | Cheddar | ★ Good | Tue 14th Jul 2020 | |||||
Honestly all the routes here feel very similar
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6b | ★ Digit pizzicato | 12m | Other Avon Crags | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | |||||
nice fingery slab moves
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6b 6a+ | ★ Brean Dream | 13m | Brean Down | Average | Sun 13th Aug 2006 | ||||
Climbs much nicer that it looks, still feels a bit snappy.
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5b E2 5b | Back Off | 10m | Fairy Caves Quarry | Sat 26th May 2007 | |||||
Easy for the grade
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★ Odd Boots | 8m | Fairy Caves Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Mar 2019 | ||||
A couple of nice moves, separated by a few meters of nothing climbing. Low in the grade.
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★★★ The Earl of Perth | Avon Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Jun 2019 | |||||
Really nice movements on better rock than you expect in Avon
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★★★ Gollum | 20m | Goblin Combe | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Jun 2019 | ||||
Nice and tough. Delicate climbing through nice rock.
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★★★ Coronation Street | 390m | Cheddar | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 26th Oct 2019 | ||||
Mega classic for a reason. Long beautiful and lots of thought provoking moves. Better atmosphere than you might expect from cheddar.
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★ Gundabad | 20m | Goblin Combe | Average | Wed 22nd May 2019 | ||||
Less interesting than the VS honestly. Just less gear.
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★★ The Badest | Other Avon Crags | ★ Good | Mon 8th Jun 2020 | |||||
Just keep moving, not too hard but gear is a bit poor.
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★★ M1 | 35m | Avon Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Aug 2020 | ||||
A nice and always interesting line with a little poor rock
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E1 5b | ★ Strictly Ballroom - with Alex C, Russell Jackson | 25m | Fairy Caves Quarry | Sun 16th Sep 2018 | |||||
Nice slabby moves over dubious protection. This was my second E1 and now I went to go back to climb VSs... I wonder how many pieces of protection would actually hold on a proper fall ????
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E1 5b | ★ Gundabad - with Tom Gape | 20m | Goblin Combe | Sun 5th Aug 2018 | |||||
My first E1. I wish I had taken more N`1 nuts.
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6a | Smooth Operator | Cheddar | Average | Sat 10th Mar 2007 | |||||
shit, really. The obligatory polished boulder problem start followed by totally uninteresting plodding.
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6a+ 6a | Always on my Mind | 15m | Cheddar | Average | Fri 22nd Sep 2006 | ||||
tricky steep start, unobvious moves, finish on great holds
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6a | Smooth Operator | Cheddar | ★ Good | Tue 14th Jul 2020 | |||||
Honestly all the routes here feel very similar
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5+ 5c | Don't Fear the Bleater | 10m, 7 | Cheddar | Average | Mon 20th Feb 2006 | ||||
also polished and nasty
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5+ 5c | Don't Fear the Bleater | 10m, 7 | Cheddar | Average | Wed 1st Feb 2006 | ||||
Freezing weather and polished rock.
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5c | ★ I Can't Believe It's a Texan - with Russell Jackson | Cheddar | Wed 10th Aug 2016 | ||||||
A messy route. If you try to follow it straight it is a lot harder, if you go right it is a 5+ but then why the bolts are so at left?
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HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★ Legolas | 12m | Goblin Combe | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Jul 2019 | ||||
Harder than it looks, but nice well protected crack
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HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★ Disaster area | 18m | Goblin Combe | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Jun 2020 | ||||
Nice little finger crack, then nervy topout.
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HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★ Brink of Solarity | 36m | Other Avon Crags | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Jun 2020 | ||||
Nice, chill slab crack
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HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★ Pickpocket | 23m | Other Avon Crags | ★ Good | Mon 8th Jun 2020 | ||||
Slightly more insecure slab crack.
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HVS 5a | ★★ Brink of Solarity | 36m | Other Avon Crags | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | |||||
nice and steady with lots of good gear
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4+ | Yew Tree Crack | Other Avon Crags | Sun 12th Jun 2022 | ||||||
Warm up
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4+ | Layback Flake | Other Avon Crags | Tue 14th Jun 2022 | ||||||
Felt harder than th f5+ tbh
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5 | ★ Tourist Distraction | Cheddar | ★ Good | Sat 17th Mar 2007 | |||||
Hooray, a Chedaar warm-up without the tendon-fucking start!
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5 5a | Hug the Jug | 10m, 7 | Cheddar | Average | Mon 20th Feb 2006 | ||||
polished and nasty
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5 | ★ Reunion at Nightfall | Cheddar | ★ Good | Sun 21st Dec 2008 | |||||
Handy new warm-up. Actually quite nice too
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5b+ 5 | ★ Tourist Distraction | Cheddar | Sun 7th Jun 2020 | ||||||
Nice corner style climbing
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5a+ 5 | ★ Reunion at Nightfall | Cheddar | Sun 7th Jun 2020 | ||||||
Great for beginners
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5 | ★ Tourist Distraction | Cheddar | Average | Thu 9th Jun 2022 | |||||
Meg’s and Jordan’s first ever lead climb! My first time climbing in UK, it rained, how apt.
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5a | ★ I've Lost My Canadian - with Russell Jackson | Cheddar | Wed 10th Aug 2016 | ||||||
Easy routes if you can find the holders. Tricky start as most of the wall.
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4c | ★ Rockers Revenge | Avon Gorge | ★ Good | Thu 17th Jul 2003 | |||||
Enjoy the topout
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4c VS 4c | Necromancer | 20m | Goblin Combe | ★ Good | Sat 14th Oct 2006 | ||||
Sweated a bit over the polished bit (near the top of the twin cracks). All there once you commit!
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VS 4c VS 4c | ★★ Gronk | Avon Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th Jul 2019 | |||||
Nice climb for avon, with better friction than you expect.
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VS 4c | ★★ Giant's Cave Buttress - with AndrewCollins | Avon Gorge | Sat 30th May 2015 | ||||||
Amazing view, a lot of public. I freaked out a couple of times going the wrong way.
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HVS 4c | Limbic Dystrophy - with Lolly Pope | 60m | Avon Gorge | Mon 19th Aug 2019 | |||||
Scary. The beginning sets you in the wrong mindset for the rest of the route. The quality of the rock is terrible at the beginning, dubious in the mid and ok at the top. Took a longer than expected.
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VS 4c | ★★ Rob's Crack | 42m | Fairy Caves Quarry | Fri 1st May 2015 | |||||
Definitely best climb of the day. The crux is a bit scary. Bring a lot of 4 and 5 nuts because the crack has that size most of the time!
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VS 4c | ★★ Piton Route | 58m | Avon Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 20th Mar 2024 | ||||
total classic, which makes sense as it's in classic rock! I led the crux pitch (P1) and george led P2&3.
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VS 4c | ★★ Petros | 27m | Avon Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th May 2024 | ||||
so good
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4c | Drukpa Dzong | Cheddar | Thu 4th Jul 2013 | ||||||
In the dark.... nice.
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VS 4b VS 4b | ★★ Gondolin | 20m | Goblin Combe | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Jul 2019 | ||||
Nice crack climb, required a range of technique, would have been easier but for all the polish.
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HS 4b HS 4b | The Gnome King | 18m | Goblin Combe | Wed 3rd Jun 2020 | |||||
Good value for the grade
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HS 4b HS 4b | ★ Esgaroth | 18m | Goblin Combe | ★★★ Classic | Fri 24th Jul 2020 | ||||
Very nice moves through an immaculate crack
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VS 4b | Truffle - with Russell Jackson | 9m | Fairy Caves Quarry | Sat 15th Sep 2018 | |||||
I tried Toblerone but the movement was too bold for me so I detoured to this one.
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4a S 4a | Le soupçon | 12m | Cheddar | Average | Fri 5th Oct 2007 | ||||
Bit over grown.
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4a S 4a | ★ Bard the Bowman | 15m | Goblin Combe | ★ Good | Sat 14th Oct 2006 | ||||
Good gear, no nasty suprises
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S 4a S 4a | ★ Bard the Bowman | 15m | Goblin Combe | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Jun 2020 | ||||
Supprisingly good quality little route
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S 4a | ★ Bard the Bowman | 15m | Goblin Combe | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Dec 2022 | ||||
Slight polish on footholds halfway up but good route with great protection
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S 4a | ★★ Sleepwalk - with willow | 63m | Avon Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Feb 2023 | ||||
Great climb but bold run out and not great belays on the middle pitches .... at least the climbing was not to technical then. Fun with the exposure!
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HS 4a | ★ Balch's Slide | 45m | Fairy Caves Quarry | Mon 28th Aug 2023 | |||||
Stayed in the centre.
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S 4a | ★ Bard the Bowman - with Ruth | 15m | Goblin Combe | Fri 16th Sep 2016 | |||||
Some loose bits, be careful.
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HS | ★ Nightmare | 62m | Avon Gorge | Thu 10th May 2007 | |||||
Slippery as hll. Lives up to it's name.
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HS | Sinister - with Robyn (guide) | Avon Gorge | Sat 9th Apr 2016 | ||||||
Led P1 & 2 as one pitch. Robyn led P3
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HS | Sinister | Avon Gorge | Don't Bother | Wed 21st Mar 2018 | |||||
Gets two stars in the old guide, i should have checked here first. It's filthy and uninspiring.
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E2 | ★★ Foegs Folly | Avon Gorge | Tue 23rd Apr 2019 | ||||||
First lap to place a cam on gymslip.
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VS 4c VS | ★ Floating Voter | Avon Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Oct 2021 | |||||
Nice moves if a tad polished
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VD | ★ Idleburger Buttress | 30m | Avon Gorge | Sat 4th Dec 2021 | |||||
First trad lead!!!
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VD | ★★ The Arete | 40m | Avon Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 15th Oct 2023 | ||||
now given Severe. Alt leads with George
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M | Easy Route | 60m | Avon Gorge | Sat 8th Oct 2016 | |||||
Bringing up a friend. We abseiled down.
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VS | ★ Elrond - with Ruth | 20m | Goblin Combe | Fri 16th Sep 2016 | |||||
Good route. You will need a massive cam or climb around 3-4 metres unprotected (6 according to my climbing partner but I think she was exaggerating!).
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HS | Halfway to Kansas | 45m | Fairy Caves Quarry | Fri 1st May 2015 | |||||
Lead both pitches.
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VD | Back to Basics - with Russell Jackson | 50m | Fairy Caves Quarry | Sat 15th Sep 2018 | |||||
I have climbed this before but clearly not in my logbook. Nice easy line.
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7b 7b+ | ★★ Chulilla | Brean Down | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Sep 2015 | |||||
Not sure I've got the name right
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7b | ★ Spy in the Sky | 12m | Cheddar | ★ Good | Sun 21st Dec 2008 | ||||
Solid flash - big thanks to Oli for chalking up all the bizarre holds. Would be a hard one to onsight.
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7a | ★★ Screwballed! | 12m, 7 | Cheddar | ★ Good | Sun 18th Mar 2007 | ||||
Beta Flash. Really unobvious, intricate and blind sequences. What a battle! Pumped out of my mind...
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