Routes as sport in California

Seam to a HUGE reach right.

To the first anchor

A glorious extension to Mind Meld which originally and unreasonably diverted out to finish on the anchors of Photon Torpedo. This extension stays on the arete with sustained 11+ climbing up to a new anchor. A new classic, the crux is still the low bouldery arete sequence but is now followed by super fun exposed climbing up the headwall and arete.

Excellent steep jugs to a hard lip turn and cruxy headwall. Permadraws through the deeper section of roof.

Alternate start to FC if you feel like really squeezing the juice out of your arms.

Start up awkward chimney to gain bolted crack. Climb up this to the right of the Focus anchor. Take a breather, extend the anchor (a lot) then quest out the steep headwall. Classic of the area.

Start from the top of 'To Pin or Not to Be'[20593711] and 'Moss Critique'[20593783], and climb past the first bolt shared with 'Premature Ejection'[20594233] before heading right. Follow four more bolts before joining 'Premature Ejection'[20594233] again at the 2-bolt anchor. For the full route, continue up past another bolt and some mossy face climbing to finish at the higher 2-bolt top anchor.

From the top anchor of 'AC Devil Dog'[20593573] and 'Table Manners'[20593507], look for the bolt to the right marking the beginning of the route. Manage the pump through the overhang to the 2-bolt top anchor.

Huntin' Gator is the first pitch of the infamous test piece Cajun Hell. Take the class 4 scramble up the long diagonal ramp cutting leftward up Mayhem Cove. It begins within the cave as the second route from the right and fourth from the left although the bolted lines for the other routes are sporadic at best. 7 bolts lead to a 2 bolt hanging belay anchor system on the headwall. Find the fixed bolt on the ramp for the belay person. The second through fourth bolts have fixed chains so you'll know you're on the right route. Through the first four bolts you're treated to wildly overhanging powerful moves rightward out to the overhanging face. The next 2 bolts offer big holds and a chance to catch your breath, but the technical redpoint crux awaits as you move up and left towards the anchors.

If you continue up and left past the anchors following the diagonal seam along the overhanging headwall, this is Drinkin' White Lightning, the 5.12c second half of Cajun Hell.

7 bolts to a 2 bolt wire cable and fixed biner anchor system

Fixed Draws.

Direct start variation of 'Kill Uncle'[18574087], left of the original start. Stick-clip the first bolt and pull through the crux moves.