Routes in Colorado for selected grade

Approach: Follow signs for Regarden wall. The route starts at a ledge with a tree about 15ft higher than the trail, just before the start of Rewritten.

P1: Starts on the short dihedral with a pin about 20ft up, then traverse left and pull a roof. This is a bit intimidating. Traverse back rigth and belay at a tree on a ledge.

P2: Step left and up into the dihedral and then onto the face. Belay on a ledge with a big tree a bit higher.

P3: Climb under the tree and left on cracks and a corner past a ledge with loose rocks, go over the bulge and climb to a big ledge with a broken band that takes some big pro and nuts.

P4: Traverse right about 15 ft and up a dihedral, then arrive at the left side of a huge overhang with a horizontal crack. Traverse right using some pins and the crack for pro (watch for rope drag after the roof!). Then up a thin dihedral to a slanted ledge with a big loose rock. Do not use this rock for pro! It will come down! Use a crack on the floor and a pin on the left wall.

P5: Up the thin crack which you can protect with a #.3. Fun! Then step right around the corner into a wall with a bunch of pins. Either bring lots of slings or skip some of the pins. The moves are delicate here but not hard. After this section you will see a series of bolts that go straight up, this is a direct finish that goes at 5.10. The standard route goes diagonally left on a runout slab, then unto a corner with a pin. You can belay here with some crartive placements a bit higher or continue up to the summit (not recommended, lots of drag).

P6: Up the beautiful exposed arete to the summit of Tower I.

Descent: From the summit traverse right (facing the opposite way of the climb) down to a tree with a sling. Rappel from here to a trail. From there follow the trail down to to a big ledge with big trees that’s the top of Ruper. From there go up a bit through a V notch, then down to a gully with big boulders, Continue down this gully for about 100ft to the end and look for rap rings on the wall on the left. Rap down with 60m rope (barely makes it) to the top of the Upper Ramp. Up the small wall in front to a tree and then down over the ridge to a rap station. 2 single 60m rope raps to the bottom. Then follow the trail left back to the base.

Hairy Climbing. Right route on the belay ledge with piton above in thin crack.

Traverse out left from the belay ledge then up. Pitch 2 goes up the flared chimney on the right. Pitch 3 Continues up the slabby chimney

The route begins behind a large boulder about 70' to the right of West Point Crack. The first piton if reached by getting between the boulder and South Gateway Rock and climbing up and left on a steep ramp. From there, follow the obvious line where the white and red sandstone meet and form a crack/edge. This leads to a face climb protected by 4 pins straight up to double anchors. Rap from the anchors or continue up the second pitch which ascends an angling ramp up and right.

Two bolt anchors. Double-rope rappel. Pro thin to 3".

Location

Route starts just left of the start of J-Crack (a blocky, loose-looking scramble up a steep ramp). Look for the thick flake going straight up the wall with finger-sized and smaller protection.

Gear

60m rope, single rack up to #3, plenty of nuts.

P1 5.9

Follow the blocky flake straight up until it ends at a tat rappel sling. Clip the sling and do a diagonal traverse beneath the small roof. Continue a bit further left until you reach a good belay ledge (also the first belay for Pear Buttress).

P2 5.9

Continue traversing the sloping belay ledge until you reach the left of two finger cracks (the first is Visual Aids 5.10b). Place good protection here, so you don't take a swinging factor 2 off the crux of the route. The crack starts as a shallow, flaring hand crack with good fingers if you reach deeper. It then eases up to solid hand jams taking you up the rest of the pitch. Towards the top, tend slightly right to reach a belay ledge just wide and long enough to take a well-deserved nap on.

P3 5.9

Start going straight up the crack on the right side of the belay ledge to reach the bottom of a large diagonal roof. Undercling traverse up and left under the roof until you can make an awkward exit up it's left end. Continue up several more feet, to a large belay ledge.

P4 5.7

Look for "The Cave", an obvious cave above and right of your belay stance. Scramble up easy slabs to get inside the cave, then heroically navigate the roof to finish the route. Tall climbers will be able to clip a piton before getting into the business.

Descent

Walk off the back side of the wall down a dirty gully. Optionally skip the worst part of the descent rappelling off a large pine tree accessible by traversing a sloping ledge at the top of the descent. Follow the trail until it returns to the J Crack Slab.

Challenging for the grade.

bolted crack right of Miller Time

Climb the face / crack of the small pillar.

check quality of the bolts!

A short dicey route just right of "Jumping Th Gun" . Edge and smear up the right side of Ripple Wall to anchors on a shelf. Three bolts to a two bolt anchor. 45 Feet - (Stewart Green, Red Rock Canyon Open Space 2004)