Routes as trad in Idaho

The climbing starts on easy slab until you reach the flake & then things get vertical. There is no protection before you reach the flake but none is needed. Climb the flake using slab and other features for feet. All protection is in the flake and in the crack behind the flake once it widens. Climbing is more difficult after the flake widens and gets even more vertical. Bring doubles in mid ranges from .75 through 1, triples in #2 & 3 saving One of each for the anchor. This climb is a fabulous lead.

Mostly a finger crack with lots of surface rugiosity to help you out. The route eats Small to midsize gear up to about A #1. Nice fist crack at the top which can take larger pieces. Gear anchor. Walk off a 5.5 ramp to the right as you face the crack.

This route is not listed in the Idaho Underground guide but the book does show undesignated anchors just to the left of the Lightening Crack anchors and to the right of the Steep Disorder anchors. The apparent line follows the off-width crack which veers to the left of the same roof where lightning crack veers to the right of the roof. The anchors are very accessible from the top of the cliff to set up as a toprope. Some larger pieces will be needed for the OW section, a #4, a #5, a #6, & either a #7 or the lime colored Big Bro will work. After the OW section normal size pieces, .3 to .75, will finish the job. The Boise Climbs guide lists this route with no anchors, but new anchors with chains have apparently been added since the book was published.

Solid hand crack on perfect granite. You will have to build a trad anchor in ample medium sized cracks at the top.

A solid fingers to hand-sized crack for about 40 feet, then transitions to easier face climbing. The route finishes in the same dihedral moves shared by Lancelot. A very loose Block just below the anchors Is marked with an X. Good gear for the whole climb, up to a #1. Could probably place a #2 down low.

Brilliant ever changing crack. Starts behind the boulder with about eighteen feet of comfortable chimney climbing before you reach the crack. You can toss your rope over the boulder before tying in and Then use the boulder to protect the chimney moves. Your first piece will be in the main crack once you reach it. Good features to help with foot and hand jams as the crack continues eventually turning into an off-width toward the top. Take a double rack from .2 - #3. #2 & 3 for the anchor. Rap station is to the climbers right, or take your chances finding the walk off.

Lower Crack is hand to fist on the right and finger size on the left of the dihedral. Exit the roof to the face on the right to aCquire the zig zag mostly finger size cracks above. The last moved to the anchor are the obvious crux.

Hand crack for first half of the climb before transitioning to a demanding face climb. Afternoon shade.

Just what the name says, stemming and jamming, hands and feet. . Solid hand crack on the right for most of the climb.

Climb a column with a small crack for gear, with 5.8 movement for most of it. The payoff is moving past a complex bulge to finally reach the anchors by using small cracks and a mantel and improvised feet. Good pro with small pieces for the whole climb.

Slab start to a bolt. Standard rack up to #2. Rap anchors.

Climb a crack system to the left of a triple roof formation. Move To the right over the roof when you can and follow the crack to the top. Plenty of places to built a gear anchor. The guide booK says there are bolt an hors but we did not find any. There is an Excellent rap station to the climbers left on a huge ledge just left of Finer Niner.

Shares anchors with sweet Adene

Gear anchor.

Stemming moves to a slabby mantel to the changes. Sustained and interesting climbing the whole way. Protects well with small to medium pieces.

Great short hand crack which transitions quickly to a much wider crack at midway up to a ledge. Easier climbing to the anchors. Stellar climb to hone your wide crack techniques. Super fun. Works well with either the Aunt Fannie/Buster Bronco anchors or the anchors to the right Of the toute. The Anchors to the right can be set for top rope by raping down from the Aunt Fannie anchors to a traverse ledge over to the anchors.

In the guidebooks and on Mountain project this route is indicated to use the Heat Miser anchors but this route now has it's own anchor. The new anchor is to the right and about ten feet higher than the anchors for Heat Miser which makes the route about 60 feet long. Mostly 5.7 climbing, but the final moves to the anchor follow a crack past a burly bulge, and are closer to 5.9.

Finger crack with good jug holds on the face if you can't make the crack work. Some say the grade should be 5.8 if you just use the crack. Very good rock on this climb. Takes medium to small Cams the whole way.

Good hand crack most of the way, until the ledge right below the anchors. The crack eats #1s #2s and #3s, small stuff up top. Shares anchor with The Cleaning Lady.

Easy top rope access for this route. Crack section takes mid sized pieces most of the way, smaller stuff up high. Bolted anchor with chains.

Climb the juggy arete using the crack to the right for protection and additional holds. Take plenty of small cams and stoppers. You can finish on either the Fat Ankles anchors or the to anchors to the right.

Follow crack to small roof ( crux). Protects well.

Fist to hand crack in solid granite for the first 40 feet with ample pro in the crack, then another 45 feet of challenging bolted slab to chains with cold shuts.

Hand to fist for most of the climb, until you get to the big ledge. Finger locks Past vertical with sparse feet will get you up the last 12 feet or so to the anchors. Bigger fingers will work against you on this section.

Fingers to wide crack climb with lots of surface holds. Really fun lead which is on the stiff side of 5.7.

Finger to full on hand crack. Lie-backing the crack behind the flake is the crux. With small to medium gear.gear.

Up jugs just to the right of cowboy, starts as for CB

Anchors are pretty rusty.

The name of the route is painted on the rock at the base of the climb. Like a lot of climbs at the black cliffs this can be done as a trad climb, sport climb or mixed. Plenty of jugs on the arête most of the way, or you can climb it harder by ignoring the jugs and instead doing hand jamming to fist jamming and then Chicken winging your way up the crack and out onto the bulgy crux next to bolt four. A #6 cam will come in handy for the ow section. A .5 will work in the small crack just left of the bulge under the undercling hold to protect the crux move. Or Just clip the bolt for more peace of mind on the big move pulling up onto the higher face. Might be pg 13 down low if done as a sport climb with no gear in the crack.

Dihedral with twin hand cracks, leading to hard face climbing to the chains.

Follow the dihedral into a crack system. Then lieback past a bulge with thin feet on to a ledge below the anchors.

Lieback crack in a dihedral for 35 feet then pull to the left of a roof and finish on slab to bolted anchors. Very physical route for the grade.

Shares anchor with Drunken Cowboy.

This route offers a great hand crack most of the way but there are surface holds and bullet proof feet everywhere, so it can be climbed with minimal crack technique. Protection is ample, up to #3 cams for the higher sections of the crack. Take small gear for the crux bulge to the anchors. The guide books and Mountain Project indicate that this climb is 40 feet to the anchor, but this route is much much longer than that. I use a verifiable forty meter factory cut rope (131 feet) at the Black Cliffs and my rope once hung from the anchors was fully three feet off the ground. This route is at least 65 feet long.

Really good route in a dihedral left of Lucky Pierre. Ends on the last 12 feet of Lucky Pierre which is pretty challenging for 5.7.

Gear starts to get sparse as the crack widens, unless you have a couple of pieces larger than a #5.

Ends with a difficult bulge. Anchors with chains, accessible from the top. Standard rack.

Starts with a flaring hand crack on a bulge. Getting into this crack and past the bulge is the crux of the climb. After about 20 feet the difficulty eases up as the crack gets better and less flaring. This line has been described in guidebooks as a two pitch climb but if you have a 70 meter rope you can do it in one pitch. In fact if you have a 70 you should do it in one pitch because the crack is very straight and offers little opportunity to create much rope drag even without extending every piece. The last forty feet or so is a bit chossy but the rock quality for the first 100 feet is excellent. To get back down with one 70 you will need to scramble to the north side of the rock and find rap chains near the other routes located there.

Gear is a little sparse but probably adequate for a leader experienced at the grade.