Showing all 59 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Date | |||
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New Mexico Sangre de Cristo Mountains Pecos River Area The Bleachers | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Hanging Gardener - with Fritz | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | Thu 6th Sep 2012 | |||
Skirts around top of overhang. Should be rated 5.7 instead of 5.8
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5.8 | ★★ Hard Rock Miner - with Fritz | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | Thu 6th Sep 2012 | |||
Nice face climb.
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5.9 | ★★ Stir It Up - with Fritz | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Oct 2012 | |||
Interesting route, but it appears not to be climbed much
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New Mexico Gallup/Grants Areas Mentmore New Side Open Face Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Reuben - with Fritz Devendorf | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Nov 2013 | |||
The crux is about the last 5' to the last bolt before the chains. I led and sidled a bit left and back to get to that last bolt.
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5.7 | ★★ Opie Ate the Masses - with Fritz Devendorf | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Nov 2013 | |||
Better protected lead than Tuna melt
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New Mexico Albuquerque Sandia Mountain Fire Hydrant | |||||||
5.6 | Northwest Face | 34m | Average | Tue 24th Jul 2007 | |||
Toward the top I got ancy about making the moves I wanted (layback to mantle), because the ton and a half rock I wanted to use moves. So I went up a rather nasty little chimney (pumpy 5.7-5.7+).
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New Mexico Albuquerque Sandia Mountain Tridents | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Lost Line Variation (Lost Line) | 180m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Jun 2007 | |||
We started about 100' to the right of Lost Line. The route joins Lost Line at the second belay point. Top half of the Third pitch features a fun arete (total 5 pitches). Slings at first belay point indicate it's been climbed often on.
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5.6 | ★★ Lost Line | 180m | ★ Good | Sun 30th Sep 2007 | |||
The standard ascent route starts up a chimney with some loose 20 to 40 pound boulders you need to hang on to climb it, so I moved 15' around the corner up a face (Fritz pointed out) which still had some, much more manageable loose rocks, for the first pitch. The rest was on the standard route.
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New Mexico Albuquerque Sandia Mountain Estrellita | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Estrellita | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 2nd Aug 2006 | |||
Great climb, yahoo! Just what i needed to get me out of a funk i was in. No big muscle moves needed.
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New Mexico Albuquerque Sandia Mountain Hole in the Wall | |||||||
5.7 | Redeemer (5.7 variation) | 91m | Don't Bother | Wed 10th May 2006 | |||
Route alternates between loose, blocky stuff and good rock.
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New Mexico Albuquerque Sandia Mountain Gemstone East | |||||||
5.5 | ★★ Flake 'n Bake | 37m | ★ Good | Sat 11th Oct 2008 | |||
Weird weather; high winds, heavy clouds, scud, spotty rain;so we decided to do something easy.
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5.7 5.7 I | ★ Opal | 85m | ★ Good | Wed 12th Oct 2005 | |||
We had to go offroute because it probably rained the day before and some of the wet streaks were where one would put their feet. There was a nice foot move on the first pitch. The second (half) pitch had some nice friction/minimal hold work; good for my concentration. This variation appears more difficult than the standard Opal route. We found that Hills guidebook said 150' from the top rappell bolts. It's more like 175'.
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New Mexico Albuquerque Sandia Mountain Tombstone | |||||||
5.8 | ★ West Face - Left Side | 79m | ★ Good | Sat 28th Jun 2008 | |||
Fritz led the hard lead. I led the easy one. There are almost 3 5.8 cruxes (if that's possible).
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5.5 | ★★ West Face Traverse | 91m | Average | Sat 28th Jun 2008 | |||
First pitch a bit ledgy.
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New Mexico Albuquerque Sandia Mountain The Thumb | |||||||
5.5 | ★★ Northwest Ridge | 490m | ★ Good | Tue 28th Jun 2005 | |||
It was a good exercise in route finding, glorious views. It's great to sit at belay and watch people way below walking down a path between your toes. Actually just 5 1/2 leads of fifth class. The rest is fourth and third
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New Mexico Albuquerque Sandia Mountain Sentinel | |||||||
5.6 | Unknown on South Face | 70m | Average | Tue 24th Aug 2004 | |||
When Fritz & I climbed this we thought it was a different climb. We don't know if it was climbed before. I would give the crux a 5.6. The rest of the climb is only 5.4 - 5.5.
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5.6 | ★★ Lost Ledge | 52m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 21st Sep 2005 | |||
Rock holds pro really well and first lead is continually good climbing.
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New Mexico Albuquerque Sandia Mountain Muralla Grande | |||||||
5.8 5.9 II | ★★ The Second Coming | 170m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Aug 2008 | |||
The ambitious climb of the year (so far) for Fritz and me. There's 5.8 on every pitch, and if we dared we could do the last pitch as 5.9 or 5.10. Didn't drink enough water so my fingers cramped up on the last pitch. As we finished little droplets started spitting from the sky.
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New Mexico Santa Fe Padre Springs Canyon | |||||||
5.8 | ★ I am the Walrus | 8m | Average | Mon 17th Sep 2018 | |||
New Mexico Santa Fe Diablo Canyon The Alcove | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ No Name Crack - with Fritz | 18m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 18th Oct 2012 | |||
I liked the variety of moves I had to use in this climb. The offwidth portion is enjoyable too.
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New Mexico Santa Fe Diablo Canyon Styx Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Minion | 27m | Average | Sun 9th Oct 2011 | |||
Up nose to chains. Top a bit ledgey.
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New Mexico Santa Fe Diablo Canyon Winter Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Old Sling | 27m | Don't Bother | Tue 28th Oct 2008 | |||
Actually the ramp was kinda fun; lotsa exposure. This is how we got to the chains at the top of Protein Supplement and Sunbaked.
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5.8 | ★ Hellboy (to first anchors) | 27m | Average | Sun 8th Nov 2009 | |||
Boy it was hot at the climb maybe 85 degrees.
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New Mexico Santa Fe Diablo Canyon Early Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Drunk Rednecks with Golfclubs | 16m | ★ Good | Tue 21st Oct 2008 | |||
Climbed to crux; dallied too long, started over and fired through. Re-climbed it twice. Worked on my pinch holds. This could be the last warm day of fall.
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New Mexico Jemez Mountains Las Conchas Gateway Rock | |||||||
5.7 | unnamed | 12m, 5 | Average | Wed 10th Aug 2011 | |||
The route went pretty quick, but the rock was not the best: a little crumbly and dirty.
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5.8 | Green Thumb | 12m | ★ Good | Sun 5th Jun 2011 | |||
Nice route. Wish it were longer.
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New Mexico Jemez Mountains Las Conchas Cattle Call Wall | |||||||
5.7 | Johnny Can't Lead | 15m, 6 | Average | Wed 22nd Jun 2011 | |||
Four days after climbing here the big Las Conchas fire broke out. Hope it didn't burn out the climbing area.
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5.9 | ★★ Eat More Chickin - with Fritz Devendorf, Hannah Frizzel, Ed Cox, Liah Barnett | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Wed 18th Jul 2018 | |||
New Mexico Jemez Mountains Las Conchas Roadside Attraction | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Crucible | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Jun 2006 | |||
Nice variety of moves on a sport climb. Did it twice. New guidebook overrates it a bit (5.8). Don't believe it.
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New Mexico Jemez Mountains Upper East Fork Monster Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Cookie Monster - with Fritz Devendorf | 21m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 18th Oct 2016 | |||
At two places, by the second to third bolt and just before the chains the grade is 5.9. By the chains it is pumpy
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New Mexico Jemez Mountains Upper East Fork Easy Slab | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Solstice - with Fritz Devendorf | 18m, 6 | Average | Tue 18th Oct 2016 | |||
Grade at first two bolts was really 5.8
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New Mexico Los Alamos White Rock Gallows Edge Gallows Edge | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Fezzik (Andre the Giant) - with Fritz Devendorf | 9m | ★ Good | Thu 29th Apr 2021 | |||
5.7 | ★ Pejo's Route | 14m | Average | Wed 22nd Jun 2005 | |||
Gallows Edge is not a place to climb on a hot day. I fried my fingers.
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5.5 | ★★ Butler Route | 12m | ★ Good | Sun 4th Sep 2005 | |||
My first lead after having foot surgery. Went well.
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New Mexico Los Alamos White Rock New New Place | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Twin Cracks - with Norbert | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 9th Sep 2014 | |||
The bottom was the hardest.
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5.9 | ★★ Flare - with Norbert | 14m | ★ Good | Tue 9th Sep 2014 | |||
I really had to work on this one. Got partway up the flare and moved right with some creative moves, then back into the route.
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5.7 | ★ Beginner's 5.7 - with Norbert | 12m | ★ Good | Tue 9th Sep 2014 | |||
Wanted to lead it, but only brought some draws and tricams.
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New Mexico Los Alamos The Y South Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ unknown arete - with Gunther Worrlein | 14m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 19th Jun 2018 | |||
New Mexico El Rito Little River Wall Vaudeville | |||||||
5.7 | Zero Gravity Plinko - with Gunther Worrelin and Fritz Devendorf | 9m, 5 | Average | Sun 13th Sep 2015 | |||
Bouldery holds, kind of like climbing in the gym.
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New Mexico El Rito El Rito Sport Crags | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Green Chile Two Step - with Fritz Devendorf | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd May 2017 | |||
5.7 | ★ Cobb It | 11m | ★ Good | Wed 13th Jul 2005 | |||
Climbed it 3 times, just to be sure.
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New Mexico El Rito El Rito Trad | |||||||
5.8 | Shoes for Industry | 30m | Average | Wed 3rd May 2006 | |||
We were greeted by a small rattlesnake at the start of the climb. Fritz moved him and we climbed. I managed to skirt the overhang on lead, but Fritz made it over on second.
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5.6 | ★★ Packrat Dihedral | 79m | ★ Good | 1992 | |||
'92 + '93. Route in guidebook is average, well above average if you go straight up on face for second lead. Upper part of first lead is too easy; could climb on "arete" 2' right of dihedral to keep this section interesting.
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5.6 | ★ Guillotine | 90m | ★ Good | Tue 19th Oct 2004 | |||
bypassed the crux move on my lead (a woose-out)
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5.6 | ★ Chili Verde | 85m | ★ Good | Aug 1993 | |||
led 3x in '04 also '92 or'93
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5.4 | El Faralito | 85m | Average | Tue 6th Jul 2004 | |||
in '04 off route, in '93 on route, I think.
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5.5 | ★ Gnarly | 79m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 29th Jun 2004 | |||
led 3 variations '92 and '04; most or all exited left of actual route.
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5.4 | Commie Pinkos | 49m | Average | Tue 13th Jul 2004 | |||
second pitch 1, led pitch 2
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New Mexico Taos Tres Piedras South Rock | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Yikes Dikes | 49m | ★ Good | Tue 23rd Sep 2008 | |||
Mostly friction with some runout. Weather, perfect.
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New Mexico Taos Tres Piedras Sundeck Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Serendipity | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Aug 2010 | |||
First time up it started raining, climbed back down, waited 'till it dried, then finished climb.
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5.9 | ★★ Gila Monster | 21m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th Nov 2007 | |||
I love this route. Did it 3 times. Good for making your balance better. Somewhat sustained.
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New Mexico Taos Tres Piedras Beastie Alley | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Thunder Toad | 21m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Oct 2007 | |||
Really liked it. Plenty of balance, not too much hands. Can't believe I did it
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New Mexico Taos Tres Piedras Mosaic Rock | |||||||
5.7 5.8 | ★★ Chickenshit | 27m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Sep 2007 | |||
After leading Chickenshit I followed Fritz up Chickenheads. He got some rope drag so I did a short exit lead as a thunderstorm started to dump on us. It rained twice that day.
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5.7 | ★★ Summer Dreams | 29m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Oct 2008 | |||
Warm day, but we climbed on the north side of Mosaic. Doh! It was kinda cold, guess why they call it summer dreams. Nice climb 5.7+ friction to crack to boilerplate. A couple tricams between 1.5 and 4.0 made protecting the climb easy.
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5.8 | ★★ Baby Cakes | 27m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Oct 2011 | |||
Good climb, but messed up my ankle on it.
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5.7 | ★★ Five years After (to chains) | 12m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Nov 2009 | |||
Repeated climb varying route. Variations interesting too.
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5.7 | ★ Dirty Diagnonal | 34m | ★ Good | Wed 5th Sep 2007 | |||
Mostly fun face climbing, some on chickenheads. It thunderstormed twice. We climbed before storms, subsequent climb was between storms.
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New Mexico Taos Dead Cholla Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★ unknown - with Fritz | 12m | Average | Wed 20th Aug 2014 | |||
5.7 | ★ Fun - with Fritz | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | Sat 6th Sep 2014 |
Showing all 59 ascents.