Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Chica Bonita Wall | ||||||||
5.10b | Good Gravy | 17m, 6 | Sat 28th May 2016 | |||||
5.12b | ★★ Colt 45 - with Rachel Burland | 23m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 31st Oct 2020 | ||||
bring a stick clip. this was a great climb, was able to almost onsite this. one move away from this. slaby boulder at start ~ V3 but easier if tall. transitions into a pumpy juggy 75ft enjoyable climb that tests your endurance. right at the end it spices it up by throwing a mono pocket. I decided to fuck that and skip throwing for a small but decent crimp. If you can hold on to this you mantle up and the climb is done. over all, nothing harder than a V3 maybe V4. Cleaning would be easier to toprope clean.
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5.10c 5.11a/b | ★★ Old English - with Melissa | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th May 2018 | ||||
5.10c 5.11a/b | ★★ Old English | 23m, 8 | Sun 15th May 2016 | |||||
5.10c 5.11a/b | ★★ Old English - with Rachel Burland | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 31st Oct 2020 | ||||
this was a great climb. bring a stick clip. about a V2 boulder start that is harder for people 5" or shorter. Finish the boulder start and climb another 20ft of juggy pockets and then transition into climbing the side of a flake. Finish on the top of the flake.
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5.10c 5.11a/b | ★★ Old English | 23m, 8 | Mon 29th Mar 2021 | |||||
5.11a/b ~5.11b | ★★ Old English | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th May 2024 | ||||
This route has a boulder start that is at least v3, making it technically a 11a/b. Alternatively it is possible to skip the boulder by traversing in from climbers right, even though doing this feels a bit sketch the route itself is well worth it.
The boulder is sequency. |
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5.10a 5.10b | ★★★ Motor Booty Pimp Affair | 29m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 28th Jan 2020 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ Motor Booty Pimp Affair | 29m, 12 | Sun 15th May 2016 | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ Motor Booty Pimp Affair | 29m, 12 | Mon 29th Mar 2021 | |||||
5.10b Hard | ★★★ Motor Booty Pimp Affair | 29m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 13th Oct 2023 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ Motor Booty Pimp Affair - with James Bailie | 29m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Mar 2024 | ||||
Not a bad number. Lots of variations and interesting movements.
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5.10b ~5.10a | ★★★ Motor Booty Pimp Affair | 29m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 30th May 2024 | ||||
Amazing route!
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5.11b | She Might Be a Liar | 23m, 8 | Tue 3rd Jul 2012 | |||||
5.10c | That's What She Said - with James Bailie | 27m, 12 | Fri 29th Mar 2024 | |||||
Cruisy climb with a tricky crux in the middle. Fun palming sequence! Wetness made it more interesting for sure. Great to not be on steep jugs
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5.11a | Size Doesn't Matter | 24m, 8 | Sun 15th May 2016 | |||||
5.11a | ★★ I'll Take Sue - with Bernie Walsh, Matt Schimke | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
Some excellent friction slabbing on great clean rock. I misread the move exiting the hole. I blame the lack of chalk and tick marks. Must be the first route at the RRG where I've had to think about the moves, with predictable results.
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5.11a | ★★ I'll Take Sue - with o_g, Matt Schimke | 24m, 9 | ★ Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
There seemed to be a distinct lack of holds at various points...
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5.11a | ★★ I'll Take Sue | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
Man, one section was very blank.
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5.11a | ★★ I'll Take Sue | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th Jan 2020 | ||||
5.11c | ★ Bessie - with Bernie Walsh, Matt Schimke | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
When did Schimke get good on slabs? He floated the desperate thin crux, with zero chalk to guide.
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5.11c | ★ Bessie - with o_g, Matt Schimke | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
Turns out I'm rubbish at slabs.
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5.11c | ★ Bessie | 27m, 10 | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | |||||
OG tried his best to thwart my onsight, short roping me at crux clips, telling me about the dangerous spiders above me, and also rapping down the route and rubbing baby oil over the crux holds, but he didn't get the better of me!
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5.11c | ★ Bessie - with melissa | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Jul 2018 | ||||
5.11c | ★ Bessie - with James Bailie | 27m, 10 | Fri 29th Mar 2024 | |||||
Very cool moves through the crux. Sharp though, took a lot of skin.
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5.10c | ★★ Baby Blue Eyes | 23m, 7 | Tue 3rd Jul 2012 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Baby Blue Eyes | 23m, 7 | Sun 23rd Nov 2014 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Baby Blue Eyes - with Bernie Walsh, Matt Schimke | 23m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
Good climbing again.
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5.10c | ★★ Baby Blue Eyes - with o_g, Matt Schimke | 23m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Baby Blue Eyes | 23m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
Good holds in between blankness.
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5.10c | ★★ Baby Blue Eyes | 23m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th Sep 2017 | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Baby Blue Eyes | 23m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 11th Mar 2020 | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Baby Blue Eyes - with Brax Rodgers | 23m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Aug 2020 | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Baby Blue Eyes | 23m, 7 | ★ Good | Mon 9th May 2022 | ||||
5.10c Easy | ★★ Baby Blue Eyes | 23m, 7 | ★ Good | Fri 13th Oct 2023 | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Baby Blue Eyes | 23m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th May 2024 | ||||
5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl | 21m, 6 | Tue 3rd Jul 2012 | |||||
5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl | 21m, 6 | Sun 23rd Nov 2014 | |||||
5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl - with Bernie Walsh, Matt Schimke | 21m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
Excellent slab, with the climbing done on features. Really clean due to capping roof above route.
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5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl - with o_g, Matt Schimke | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
Squeezing in a couple of routes on the last day of my trip. Fun and engaging.
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5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
Super fun for an easy route. Not as straightforward as it looks!
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5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl - with Melissa | 21m, 6 | Tue 8th May 2018 | |||||
5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th Sep 2017 | ||||
5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl | 21m, 6 | Mon 28th Oct 2019 | |||||
5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl | 21m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 23rd Dec 2019 | ||||
5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl | 21m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Jan 2020 | ||||
5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl | 21m, 6 | Thu 19th May 2016 | |||||
5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl | 21m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 7th Mar 2020 | ||||
5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl | 21m, 6 | Sun 23rd Aug 2015 | |||||
5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | Mon 9th May 2022 | ||||
5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 13th Oct 2023 | ||||
5.10a | ★★★ Brown-Eyed Girl | 21m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th May 2024 | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Cheaper Than a Movie | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Oct 2017 | ||||
A fun, visually striking climb. Climb through a vertical section and pull over the lip. Here is where the fun starts; sustained layback climbing for 50 feet on a right angling crack. After the layback, rest your calves and pull onto a slabby face for the rest of the climb.
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5.8 | ★★ Cheaper Than a Movie - with melissa | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th Jul 2018 | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Cheaper Than a Movie | 30m | Sun 23rd Aug 2015 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Cheaper Than a Movie - with James Bailie | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Mar 2024 | ||||
Did not move efficiently through the layback resulting in some heavy breathing. Pretty chill and fun afterwards.
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5.10b 5.10c | ★★ Flying the Bird | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Jan 2020 | ||||
5.10c ~5.10c | ★★ Flying the Bird | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th May 2024 | ||||
It's a great route, too bad it's often wet.
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5.10b | ★★ When Rats Attack | 17m, 5 | Sat 11th Jun 2011 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ When Rats Attack | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Oct 2017 | ||||
Fun face climbing on slopey holds.
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5.10b | ★★ When Rats Attack | 17m, 5 | Mon 28th Oct 2019 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ When Rats Attack | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th Jan 2020 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ When Rats Attack | 17m, 5 | Thu 19th May 2016 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ When Rats Attack | 17m, 5 | Mon 29th Mar 2021 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ When Rats Attack | 17m, 5 | Sun 23rd Aug 2015 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ When Rats Attack | 17m, 5 | Wed 20th Mar 2024 | |||||
Took around the last bolt because I couldn't find the jug
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5.10b | ★★ When Rats Attack | 17m, 5 | Tue 19th Mar 2024 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ When Rats Attack | 17m, 5 | Tue 19th Mar 2024 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ When Rats Attack | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | Thu 30th May 2024 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Ridin' the Short Buzz | 11m, 4 | Sat 11th Jun 2011 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Ridin' the Short Buzz | 11m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Oct 2017 | ||||
A very good example of the typical RRG power endurance jug haul. Fun.
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5.9 | ★★ Ridin' the Short Buzz - with Melissa | 11m, 4 | Tue 8th May 2018 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Ridin' the Short Buzz | 11m, 4 | Mon 28th Oct 2019 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Ridin' the Short Buzz | 11m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Jan 2020 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Ridin' the Short Buzz - with Rachel Burland | 11m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 31st Oct 2020 | ||||
tall start very enjoyable warmup
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5.9 | ★★ Ridin' the Short Buzz | 11m, 4 | Mon 29th Mar 2021 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Ridin' the Short Buzz - with daniel delgadillo, rebecca | 11m, 4 | Sun 29th Aug 2021 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Ridin' the Short Buzz | 11m, 4 | Sun 23rd Aug 2015 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Ridin' the Short Buzz | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th Mar 2023 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Ridin' the Short Buzz | 11m, 4 | Wed 20th Mar 2024 | |||||
5.9 ~5.10a | ★★ Ridin' the Short Buzz | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | Thu 30th May 2024 | ||||
5.11a | ★★ Hot Drama Teacher | 27m, 9 | Mon 28th Oct 2019 | |||||
5.11a | ★★ Hot Drama Teacher | 27m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 13th Oct 2023 | ||||
5.12b | ★★ Cold Hard Bitch - with Rachel Burland | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 31st Oct 2020 | ||||
First Flash of this grade. A climber right before me pointed out a baller kneebar right after the second clip. this is key following the bolder start.
Overall really enjoyable. 2 stacked boulder problems. It brings it to the table right off the bat with a V4/V5 start, find the undercling to the jaston, tapers off after about 15ft. shake it out on the knee bar before climbing a more dynamic 10ft of comfortable pockets/jugs. This kicks up a notch as you start climbing back towards the arete and ends with a V3 movement. Very fun. |
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5.12b Easy | ★★ Cold Hard Bitch | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | Thu 30th May 2024 | ||||
5.11a 5.11c | ★★ The Dude Abides | 20m, 7 | Tue 3rd Jul 2012 | |||||
5.11a 5.11c | ★★ The Dude Abides | 20m, 7 | Sat 11th Jun 2011 | |||||
5.11a 5.11c | ★★ The Dude Abides | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Oct 2017 | ||||
Very fun. Start with a bouldery crux. Use a right hand gaston, left hand side pull and left heel hook. Bump the left hand to another side pull and pull a left heel-toe transition. Dance up to the 2nd bolt and meet the second crux. Use your left hand to bump up the ramp, reach up to a shallow right hand undercling and then pinch the same hold with your left hand. To gain the ledge, trend left; the crack on the right is not as good as it looks. The rest of the climb is the usual jug haul at the Red; watch the pump clock!
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5.11c ~5.11c | ★★ The Dude Abides — 2 attempts | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th Mar 2023 | ||||
High-gravity day navigating the sea of sucker holds
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5.7 | ★ Rinse and Repeat | 9m | Average | Thu 5th Oct 2017 | ||||
Short climb with a tricky start. Takes smaller gear.
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5.7 | ★ Rinse and Repeat | 9m | ★ Good | Fri 23rd Nov 2018 | ||||
5.7 | ★ Rinse and Repeat | 9m | ★ Good | Tue 28th Jan 2020 | ||||
5.10a | Raindancer | 9m, 3 | Sat 11th Jun 2011 | |||||
5.10a | Raindancer | 9m, 3 | Average | Thu 21st Apr 2016 | ||||
5.10a | Raindancer | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | Fri 25th Oct 2013 | ||||
A short pumpy climb.
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5.10a | Raindancer | 9m, 3 | Mon 28th Oct 2019 | |||||
5.10a | Raindancer | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | Mon 23rd Dec 2019 | ||||
5.10a | Raindancer | 9m, 3 | Average | Tue 28th Jan 2020 | ||||
5.10a | Raindancer - with daniel delgadillo, rebecca | 9m, 3 | Sun 29th Aug 2021 | |||||
5.10a | Raindancer | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | Mon 27th Mar 2023 | ||||
Punchy little bastard
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