Ascent in Black Velvet Wall by Jack Seawright having trad-cpr or ascent-date

The plan: have an easy multi day in vegas on the way to yosemite. Reality: Get to the base after 10, already 4 parties on it. I choof up the variant start called the gobbler. Thought it was called that after someones college nickname but turns out a rope gobbling crack meant i had to climb 5m with the rope in my teeth and then tony had to self belay below it. Eventually joined on to the route, bailed after p5 cos we were still at the back of the train and it got too windy even after borrowing 2 different jackets off people at belay stations. All was not lost, tony found a perfect piss chimney at p3. We saved a partys stuck rope on the way down and walked out heroes! Heroes that bailed off a mostly bolted 5.10a that gets done 15 times a day. It did give us time to go look at the strip afterwards and have a cheeky slap on the pokes though.