Routes as sport in United States of America

A nice lead, though many seem to skip the first bolt, and start right of it to climb to 2nd bolt.

Up, step over the gap, up trending right, then traverse left along the edge, up left of the anchors, then reach right to clip the anchors.

Left-most bolted line on the front of the cliff.

Starts where the ledge turns into a ramp up to the right.

Start just left of the big boulder. Up the face to the corner system, pass it mostly on the left, then go right again to the anchors.

To the right of the obvious Centerpiece corner, Masterpiece begins in the steepest section of the wall. Stick clip a hard-to-see first clip (on a left-facing block) with a long draw to avoid backclipping on the way up. Jug haul on steep rock until an unobvious crux between the second and third bolts. Move quickly to pull the ledge above the steep section. From here, face climb a bit before moving around a large, jutting bulge. Climb up into a tight section where an overhang presses you down from above. Traversing left of this and onto a slabby face between two large boulders, stem or jam up between the boulders to gain the anchors.

Watch out for sucker holds on the way up.

Anchors: Quick Clips

A classic 5.10a with fun, varied climbing the whole way. A must-do!

One of the best routes of its grade at Rumney. On Jimmy Right, it's the rightmost route that follows a blunt arret up to some tricky moves along the face. Small holds and small feet make this one a bit of a puzzle. Rounded crack lines require a bit of searching for good purchase. Don't go too far right around the corner, or you'll find yourself up shit creek without a paddle. To get to the anchors, choose between going right to undercling a large flake, or left, using a series of easy cracks to gain the anchors. Fantastic route and quite popular, but absolutely worth it.

Follow the big flake system. Great route for the grade.

Climb the closely spaced bolts up the center of the wall.

Goes up 3 bolts to anchors beside trees.

The bolts that continue above the anchor are "Rubicon".

On the far right side of Jimmy, but to the left of Lonesome Dove (blunt arret). Start up the slab to some tricky moves that allow you to gain the finger crack. Follow the crack up, using some sweet layback moves over a bulge at the top that will leave you feeling quite exposed.

Watch out that your rope doesn't get stuck in the finger crack near the top.

Big holds low down lead to more balancy climbing on top. Great warm-up or route for the grade.

Route starts by traversing in from the right towards the first bolt, rather than pulling directly from below. (Direct start is in the 5.10-5.11 range depending on how direct.)

Climb the bolted face between the chimney and the crack.

The right-most bolted route, about half-way up the ramp.

The best route on this section of wall. A short section of steeper wall to start then the angle eases off but the climbing is still mostly sustained at the grade

Climb the blunt corner below the railway ties, easier if you go around the corner to the left at times, more difficult (maybe 5.8) straight up the bolts.

Starts on the right face of the big corner and continues up the arete.

The obvious arrete at the front of the crag.

Unlikely terrain for the grade. Steep climbing on monster jugs the whole way.

Optional 3" cam protects moves below the first bolt.

Starts at an obvious flake jutting out of the ground. A bit run-out after the last bolt to the anchors, but easier terrain.

Starts up easy climbing (which is often wet), to a sustained upper face, one of the longer moderates in the Parking Lot area.

Worth picking your way past the wet start for the good climbing on the steep upper section.

An eight bolt extension to the original. There is yet another anchor about 2/3 of the way up but ignore this as it's no harder (and even better) to go to the top.

Starts on the top terrace.

The left-most bolted route.

The first bolt is high, very high. Most of the climbing to it is easy -- 5.2/5.3 stuff, but unless you're quite tall and reachy, one very high up (15' or so) 5.7ish move must be done to clip the first bolt, making the start very committing.

Left side of the wall. Follows water mark to shrub at the top-out. Anchor from shrub trunk.

Start on the left side of the triangular cut-out, and follow the bolts up and generally right-wards to an anchor.

Great beginner's Lead.

Jugs all the way up.

Starts at the edge of the blocky ground on the right.

Go up the slab.

Begins with a bulge leading to a low-angled section. Tread lightly on low-angle rock past thin sidepulls to a severely overhanging section near the top. Crank out the roof on big jugs to a pocketed section before the anchors