Routes in United States of America for selected grade

For the descent take care, it might not be easy to locate it especially in the dark.

After topping out you follow a trail and a bunch of cairns down. Then you continue walking down on some slabs The rap station is as you walk down facing the valley to the right hand side (Skier's-right) A chain on a ledge with usually some fixed ropes, We did 6 raps (the last 2 were short)

Do NOT go left! Do NOT rap from the tat and old rings that are on a very dead looking tree.

After the raps follow a long but obvious trail through the trees and back on the road

3 pitches of crappy climbing to lead to the most spectacular summit ever!!!

1. 35m (5.8 A0 or 5.10) Up the easy boulders (5.5). Some parties belay here with cams to reduce rope drag. Move left to steeper climbing up a thin face, 4 bolts, pull on draws for 5.8, or go free for 5.10. DBB.

2. 30m (5.8) Mud Chimney - The only real climbing on the route. Plenty of cam options plus one old manky bolts. TBB on spacey ledge.

3. 10m (5.7 A0 or 5.10) Short pitch to gain the summit area. 4 bolts well placed to pull through, climbing free it's slightly easier on the left at the top. Top out on the start of the walkway. TBB.

4. 20m (5.8) What you came here for!!! Balance your way across the unprotected walkway, with 600ft of air either side! Mantle awkwardly onto the diving board to find your first bolt. 5.7 moves up the skinny tower lead to 2 more bolts out to the right. Awkward move over bulge or pull on draws, then top out and get an awesome photo!!! The last pro is the multitude of slings/ropes, but 3rd/4th class terrain to the top.

Protection: single set of Camalots #0.5 to #3 (double 0.75 and 1 optional), some quick draws, and four to six long (24") slings.

To descend, get lowered from the summit block from the multitude of tat, then walk back to the belay. Rappel back to the top of the chimney. Then, 2x60m ropes reach the ground from here, or, with 1x60m rope just rappel reversing the route.

1. 60' (5.10b) Climb the pin-scarred right-leaning crack. Great clean aid practice.

2. Seldom climbed. Rivet and bolt ladder leads to tree with rap rings.

Starts on the top terrace.

Climb the long right-leaning hand & finger crack.

Left side of the wall. Follows water mark to shrub at the top-out. Anchor from shrub trunk.

There is a two bolt anchor at the top.

Starts with a samll crack and leads to anchors facing right.

A very interesting route. It wanders a bit, and has a lot of variation. Zig zag your way up the face to a final steep move below the anchor. Careful lowering off.

Sit start with big flakes, follow the lip up and right to the apex of the overhang. Top out.

Scramble up on the big block / ledge in the corner and reach the first bolt from there. Climb the slabby flake.

Up the face climb to the ledge. Slab your way up to the overhang and have fun on the laybacks at the top. This climb has it all.

Climb up to, left, and around the obvious left-edged flake.

Trad anchor (#2-3 cams), but otherwise a sport route - Joshua Tree's first.

Starts left of a crack.

The obvious arch dihedral. Three pitches of lay backs, smears and traversing under rooves. Third pitch is the crux and longest pitch. Crux is placing gear. Move just past apex of arch and head upwards to belay. Scramble to top.

This is the leftmost route on the Sanford Wall. Starts out moving right, then up and pump.

Furthest left route on the Gutbuster Wall; starts on the arete about 10' left of You Big Dummy. Climb the arete, then trend right and up to the anchors.

Finishes chimney style

Tough lie back to start then soe excellent Smith Rock nubbin climbing. There is a loose hold below the first bolt, so be careful if you have not stick clipped.

Climb up the slab directly beneath the shared anchor.

Left bolt line - climbs the arete just to the right of the big chimney.

A decent mid-5.10. While not a particularly inspiring line it's not too bad either.

It's on the upper (right) end of the wall, just to the left of the obvious overhang.

Now a sport route