Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.11b | ★★★ Fuzzy Undercling
| 18m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Monkey in the Middle
The best route on this section of wall. A short section of steeper wall to start then the angle eases off but the climbing is still mostly sustained at the grade FA: Stacey Temple & John Bronaugh, 1992 | 25m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Rebel without a Pause | 10m | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★★★ Caustic
The obvious arrete at the front of the crag. | 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★★ Slave to the Grind | 20m | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★★ Spider Grind
Second climb as you enter the canyon, just before the steps leading down to the Sex Cave. Sweet traversing overhang, very pumpy. | 10m | Austin | ||
5.11b | ★★ Mona Lisa Overdrive
FA: Rob McFall | 17m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Hysteria
FFA: Adam Hurst, Scott Harris, Dave Cardosa & Hank Caylor, 1988 | 14m, 4 | Austin | ||
5.11b | ★★ Aquaduck Pocket
FA: Porter Jarrard & Rob Turan, 1991 | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Up Yonder
| Red River Gorge | |||
5.11b | ★★ Toxic | 15m, 5 | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.11b | ★★ Animal Husbandry
| 27m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11a/b | ★★★ Dost Mitra
The line in the orange part of the wall with big huecos. One jug bigger than the other - find an awesome rest in a big hole! | 32m, 10 | Zion National Park | ||
5.11b | ★★ Yada Yada Yada
FA: Kellyn Gorder, 1997 | 15m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Hip To The Jive
Start up the obvious corner before stepping right and following the positive holds up the right hand face to the anchors. FA: Bentley Brackett, 2010 | 20m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★ Hobbit Hole | Pawtuckaway State Park | |||
5.11b | ★★★ The Legacy | 27m, 10 | New River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Aid Route
The crux of the climb is the 5.11b start, but don't let that grade discourage you. French free or aid the first 15 feet, and the grade falls to 5.10a C0. Save some strength for the finger locks through the last 15 feet of the route. FA: Joe Oliger & Steve Roper, 1961 FFA: Lloyd Price et al., 1967 | 55m, 2, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.11b | ★★ Vomit Launch
A classic 5.11 pump-a-thon. A stick-clip is recommended to clip the first bolt to protect the insecure and overhanging first moves. The climbing is steep and consistent with a crux coming in the middle, but the pump combined with an odd finger-crack sequence will send many climbers for a ride near the top. | 25m | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.11b | ★★ The Gambler | 12m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★★★ Amarillo Sunset
Huge moves onto great holds. Feels longer and higher than 50 ft. | 15m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★ Just Shut up and Climb | 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★★★ Satisfaction Guaranteed
| 18m, 8 | Summersville Lake | ||
5.11b | ★★ Refer Madness | 18m, 7 | Denver | ||
5.11b | ★★ 80 Feet of Meat
| 30m | Rifle Mountain Park | ||
5.11b | ★★★ Random Precision
| 18m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★ Delayed Stress Syndrome
| 11m, 3 | Summersville Lake | ||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe)
| 400m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.11b | ★★★ Mr. Choad's Wild Ride
| 32m | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★★ Geezers Go Sport
FA: 1992 | 25m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ||
YDS_ALT:5.11+ V3 | ★★★ Gunsmoke
Ultra classic traverse from left to right. The best way to get pumped in Joshua Tree. Don’t sit down at the rest for more than thirty seconds!! | 25m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
V3 | ★★★ King Tut | 3m | Buttermilks | ||
5.11b | ★★★ Flying Hawaiian
FFA: Tom Armstrong, 1987 | 27m, 9 | Rumney | ||
5.11b | ★★ Cool Ranch Flavor
Continuation and retroing of old route Slum Time. Hard crux at the top | 15m, 6 | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.11b | ★★ Arm And Hammer
FA: Tom Armstrong, 1988 | 15m, 5 | Rumney | ||
5.11b | ★★ Magic Bed
FA: Mike Wheatley, 2013 | 21m, 10 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Blue Light Special
A great 5.11b on the far left end of Shipwreck. Slightly overhanging but with good holds and fun movement. FA: Tom Egan, 1990 | 15m, 6 | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.11b | ★★ Jerry's Kids
FFA: Mike Head, Scott Harris & Randy Spears, 1987 | 5 | Austin | ||
5.11b | ★★ Juggernaut
FA: Drew Bedford | American Fork Canyon | |||
5.11b | ★★ Excavation
| 16m, 10 | Maple Canyon | ||
5.11b | ★★ Trust in Jesus
FA: Keith Moll, 1994 | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Edge-a-Sketch
| 21m | Red River Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★ Mandatory Overload
FA: Kory Cooper-Fenske | Acadia National Park | |||
5.11b | ★★ As The Crows Fly
| 17m, 5 | St. George | ||
5.11b | ★ Sky Pilot
Maint: FA: Tom Bowker, 1986 | 15m, 5 | Rumney | ||
5.11b | ★★ Connecticut Cracks
| Acadia National Park | |||
5.11b | ★ Downloader
| 15m | Maple Canyon | ||
{AU} YDS:5.11b | ★★ Believer
| 18m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Cannon Ball
| 24m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Jingus
| Red River Gorge | |||
5.11b | ★★ Turtle Wax
| 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★ Dog Logic | 15m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★ Sesame Street | American Fork Canyon | |||
5.11b | ★★ Electric Company | American Fork Canyon | |||
5.11b | ★★ Reciever
FA: Porter Jarrard & Jeff Moll, 1993 | 20m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Suicide Blonde | American Fork Canyon | |||
5.11b | ★★ Photon Torpedo
Good sustained crimpy climbing for the first half into and easier finale. Probably not the warmup you're looking for. | 20m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★★ King Me
| 30m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Elbows of Mac and Ronnie
| 14m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★★ Count Floyd Show
| 21m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Citizen's Arete
FA: 2004 | 18m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★ Maple Pickles
| Maple Canyon | |||
YDS_ALT:5.11 | ★★ Trashcan Overhang
| Shawangunks | |||
YDS_ALT:5.11 PG13 | ★★ Marshall Amp
Great line, starts in the crack on the LHS of stratocaster cave. | 32m, 8 | Red Rock | ||
V3 | ★★ The Wave
| Red Rock | |||
5.11b | ★★★ Aborigine | North Bend | |||
5.11b | ★★ Jack and the Beanstalk
Fun climbing up a crack with strange moves that get you in weird positions. | Jacks Canyon | |||
V3 | ★★ Funky Tut | 3m | Buttermilks | ||
5.11b | ★★ Annadonia | Red Wing | |||
5.11b | ★★ Bimbo Shrine
Starts just right of the tall tree. | 24m, 8 | New River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★★ Coarse and Buggy
A start up a sensational thin stemming corner leads to excellent steep jamming and lie backing. A brilliant entry to J-Tree 5.11s. FFA: Spencer Lennard, 1979 | 25m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.11b | ★★ Wild Seed | 23m | New River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Aerial
FFA: Max Jones | 23m, 6 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.11b | ★★★ Mandarin Orange | 25m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Twisted
FA: Tim Cornette, 1994 | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★ Cirque du Soleil
| 32m | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★★★ Prime Directive
| 29m, 11 | Red River Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★ The Crown
Must do! Great pockets and great big crown at top...hug it! | 7m | Horse Pens 40 | ||
5.11b | ★ Divine vessel
Four pitches. Crimpy start after some loose looking blocks. It follows a white streak up the wall. • 1) 11b** The first pitch is a decent warm-up, 20m • 2) not defined yet • 3) 11b • 4) 11b | 4, 39 | Lime Kiln Canyon | ||
V3 | ★★★ Monkey Hang
The obvious low roof opposite the corridor. | 2m | Tablelands | ||
5.11b | ★★ Another Doug Reed Route
| 18m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★★★ The Naked Edge
One of the most classic climbs in America. Climb in via 'Touch And Go'. FA: Layton Kor & Rick Horn, 1964 FFA: Jim Erickson & Duncan Ferguson, 1971 FFA: Lynn Hill & Beth Bennett, 1981 | 200m, 6 | Boulder | ||
V3 | ★★★ Birthday Direct (hard stand) | 3m | Buttermilks | ||
5.11b | ★★ One-Eyed Jacks
Care at the first bolt leads to jugs and easy climbing. | 15m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.11b | ★★ Homeostasis
| 30m, 13 | Lime Kiln Canyon | ||
5.11b | ★★★ Static Cling
| 21m | Potash Road | ||
5.11a/b | ★ Architect Rally | North Bend | |||
5.11b | ★ The Year of the Psycho Bitch
| 14m, 5 | Summersville Lake | ||
5.11b | ★★ Eight To Eleven | 2 | American Fork Canyon | ||
5.11b | ★ Dead on Arrival | American Fork Canyon | |||
V3 | ★★ Skip and Sandy
| Rumney | |||
B1 | ★★ Right Eliminator | Fort Collins | |||
5.11a/b | ★ Student Loan
FA: Kasia Weglarz & Mark Sprague, 2004 | 18m, 6 | Rumney | ||
5.11b | ★★ Hen-ry!
FA: Porter Jarrard & Shannon Langley, 1991 | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11b | ★ Primal Magic | American Fork Canyon | |||
5.11b | ★★ Weed Eater
FA: David Fromke & J.J., 2004 | 23m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★★ Sign Of The Cross | 5m | Hueco Tanks | ||
YDS_ALT:5.11 | ★★ Roof Burner | Red Wing | |||
5.11b III | ★★★ Lightning Bolt Cracks
FA: Ed Webster & Pete Williams, 1979 | 99m, 3 | Indian Creek Canyon | ||
5.11b | ★★★ Sagittarius (full)
This is the second/bigger left-trending roof from the left side of LTW. After turning the corner of the roof, follow the chimney to an excellent splitter. Most climbers stop at the chains for a 5.10b adventure. Continue through the roof for full value at 5.11b. | Index Town Walls |